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Mounted the downpipe. As a result of the hammering, no touching the firewall.
Finished making the battery terminals. Used 3/4 marine grade heatshrink for all the larger gauge connections, and some smaller sizes for the misc stuff. The adhesive lining is rather nifty.
Checked my 42 pin connector for chafing. Got to it just in time as one wire has a tiny amount of copper starting to show:
Used a lot of silicone tape to give it additional protection. Absurd that International would leave so much critical wire exposed right next to a potential chafe point.
Sorted out the turbo intake using a 90° aluminum elbow off Amazon, and some 4" boot (namely a 45° and some change):
Had to cut off the one inch leg from the alu elbow on the side facing the turbo to get a fit. The nice thing is the elbow ends up right against the turbo opening, providing a smooth, sturdy transition for the air.
Just barely clears the breather:
I fixed the broken alternator lug and hooked up the wiring harness:
I'll need to review the GPR wiring to make sure its hooked up correctly. Thankfully the layout of the harness and design of the connectors result in the harnesa hooking up only one way for the most part.
I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Fits great, cables are easier to maneuver in to place, and looks less like a rats nest. I have two left over connectors near the Y pipe for, I assume, the now not existent waste gate and EBPV.
Aside from a lot of misc stuff remaining, the last two big items are connecting the DP to the existing exhaust, and fabricating a connector to bridge the hot pipe to the turbo.
I'll need to review the GPR wiring to make sure its hooked up correctly. Thankfully the layout of the harness and design of the connectors result in the harnesa hooking up only one way for the most part.
I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Fits great, cables are easier to maneuver in to place, and looks less like a rats nest. I have two left over connectors near the Y pipe for, I assume, the now not existent waste gate and EBPV.
Looks like you have tons of room for the downpipe now.
I like your intake setup. May have tried it if that option was available at the time of my install. PM me some details and parts list sometime and I’ll see about adding it as a “PriusLover option” in the install write up.
If you think the 90° elbow may end up contacting the doghouse then you might consider sticking a piece of cut off rubber boot between the 2 parts.
The GPR wiring looks good from what I can tell. I know mine has 2 wires on the large valley side lug. It appears yours does in the photo.
You are correct, I have 2 ‘empty’ connectors tucked under the Y. They are EBPV and wastegate control as you stated.
I too would appreciate you sharing a parts list for the intake with RJWV. In the event I switch to another intake, those details would be useful to me and others in the future.
As for the GPR, I created a very basic wiring diagram when I was installing a manual GPR trigger switch. Just ignore the switch and LED leg.
"Elbow; 4 in. OD; H-6 13/16 in.; Radius 4 1/8 in. w/1 in. Leg"
With a trimmed up 45 boot from frozenboost to connect it to the CCV thing, and a little bit of left over boot to connect it to the turbo (I used left overs from a 90 degree boot... A straight boot would prob work too).
The aluminum elbow has about 1 inch or so trimmed off one side. That allows the edges to line up with the CCV. The elbow is a bit spendy for what it is... I only chose it because I wouldn't have to paint it, and because the shipping was quick. Could potentially save money by using a cast aluminum elbow or a steel one.
When I was planning this I looked up the radius and leg measurements of this elbow and drew it to scale on heavy drawing paper. I then used this to mock up the fitment on the turbo. I don't know if there are any differences in terms of where in space the turbo sits on the CSD kit vs the Irate or even the older irate kit.
Before doing this, I'd recommend interested parties draw a scale elbow on cardboard, cut it out, and make sure it'll fit before buying anything. The fit I ended up with is rather tight. Not a bad thing as it's rather rigid and sturdy, but there isn't a lot of room for variation; what I did might not work for you.
Because of lazy and not being able to cut pipe easily or weld at all, I managed to use a 45 degree elbow to join the turbo outlet and hot pipe together instead of a 90+45. Still need to do some final trimming, but here's an idea of how it fits:
The angles involved result in the hot pipe being a bit high up compared to stock, but from what I can tell it's not touching the hood when closed. Additionally it doesnt get in the way of the filter-to-CCV tube, clears the power steering pump, and the turbo clears the Y pipe being clocked for this setup.
Couple more shots showing how the hot pipe configuration plays nice with the AIS and power steering.
Here's how I connected the DP with the exhaust:
DP has a 4 ID to 3.5 ID reducer and a 14" 3.5 OD section of pipe. I cut the flange off the stock exhaust and joined it to new pipe with a butt joint band clamp. The stock exhaust and new piping didn't 100 percent line up, but it's close enough that the clamp gets nice and snug. If it ends up leaking I'll have an exhaust shop weld it on.
With the DP positioned to meet up with the stock exhaust, I'm happy to report that it has plenty of clearance/isn't contacting anything.
Tomorrow's the big day where I find out if I did this all right. Hopefully no bolts down the plenum or loose fittings.
You have had a long and laborious journey to get to where you are. We are hopeful everything works as you hope and we know it is always a bit exciting and nerve wracking turning they key over for the first time after a lot of work.
Looking very nice for an almost completely homebrew kit!
Interested in your turbo impressions as well as how that butt joint clamp holds up, I may have to run a similar set up for my exhaust when my T4 time comes.
For reasons related to the attempted theft not long after I began this project in May, I had to replace the NAPA starter, and went with a new gear reduction unit from the stealership.
Did some no start cranks to get the HPOP oil flowing. Primed fuel bowl. Inspected everything for leaks (doesn't seem to be any). After all that, gingerly started it up, and low and behold it worked without blowing up or falling apart. Scanned for codes... only ones showing were related to waste gate and EBPV.
Sounded terrible due to all the air in the HPOP system, but eventually matured in to a solid idle. Dare I say it sounds a little better than before even. After warm up did a CCT and came back with no issues.
@Khan I checked the exhaust clamps. They seem to be doing fine. It's not a complete seal as a little puff of exhaust escapes out of the gap where the ends of the clamp don't quite meet, but minor to the point where you need your finger up against the area to tell.
This get a big weird when I check the Racor for bubbles. To my surprise there's a lot of them!
Biggest fear is that I didn't tighten the compression fitting enough in the tank. I think I ruled that out by filling the tank a bit over half full with no change. I went ahead and tightened the dual clamps on the tank supply, and on the inlet to the Racor. No effect. I added a third clamp to the fuel tank supply; did nothing. Lossened and retightened the Racor bowl and tightned the pipe fittings going in to it. Nope!
Running out of ideas as the source. Perhaps the hose has a defect? Maybe the inlet plug ong he Racor isn't tight enough? Maybe the terrible napa clamps aren't sealing properly? Maybe the Racor itself has a defect? Who knows. The most confusing thing is the idle sounding so good even with these bubbles.
Even with this issue I took it for a small test drive. I'll save the full impression for later, but suffice to say hitting 20 PSI of boost with the pedal say 3/4 to the floor feels pretty nice (I had to floor it to make 10 PSI before.
Congratulations on first startup! As for the bubbles in the Racor, have you tried loosening the clamp, reclocking it to a different position then retightening? How loose/tight a fit is the hose on the barbs going from the tank into the Racor?
A little trick I use to seal the gap in those exhaust band clamps is a rolled up piece of aluminum foil that gets crushed inside the gap and seals it as you tighten the clamp.
For the WCS code, I made a code eliminator out of 470 ohm 1W resistor.
I had a similar issue dropping my tanks and doing in tank mods. Ended up being the compression fitting I used to extend the line in the tank itself. Problem exacerbated itself when I had fuel below that connection point, as the pump was pulling fuel from the bottom of the tank, and air at the fitting.
I got really good at dropping my tanks unfortunately....
I’m not sure how much fuel is required to cover the compression fitting. I see you attempted that but maybe the fuel is still below the joint? Personally I would have a hard time adding fuel if thinking the tank may need dropped again even though it’s a great way to test the theory.
Did you do the long in tank return line or the SSJ 90° turn? Just curious because he was mentioning FPR issues potentially causing this in the other thread. I don’t see how return bubbles could get into the pickup using the long method, but possibly the short 90° version could allow it to grab the air if there was a lot of it. I’ve used both methods and don’t see active bubbles on either one.
Did you keep the quick connects or run the hose all the way to the tank? I’ve done both and prefer retaining the QD (wish I’d done that on my truck instead of dad’s)
If retaining the QD fittings make sure it’s fully seated.
If using the hose, did you get it all the way over the bump on the tank nipple?
Good luck. We’re all here to help with crazy suggestions. I really look forward to reading your review post.
