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Never “heard” of that. Seriously though, I would imagine a whole lot of soundproofing would be required throughout the cab before the benefits of an acoustic windshield would be realized.
Bottom line is it will be getting a new resealed windshield so there will be one less worry of a leak there. Glass coverage on our insurance is $300 deductible and is the best policy I could get.
We have a government run insurance corporation so there’s no option on shopping around like geico, or progressive or…
Just tell the glass shop you want a windshield for a 2016 suerduty lariat, it will have superduty logo top center and have the accoustic layer.
Never “heard” of that. Seriously though, I would imagine a whole lot of soundproofing would be required throughout the cab before the benefits of an acoustic windshield would be realized.
Bottom line is it will be getting a new resealed windshield so there will be one less worry of a leak there. Glass coverage on our insurance is $300 deductible and is the best policy I could get.
We have a government run insurance corporation so there’s no option on shopping around like geico, or progressive or…
Glass replacement here (Georgia, NC, TN, FL) is under $200 without insurance. The glass itself is a fraction of that cost.
Not all glass is the same though. Safelite glass is junk compared to PPG. Not sure what the current options are, but PPG glass was guaranteed not to crack and was far less prone to pitting than the other options.
Agree, the acoustic glass is not likely to make much difference in these trucks.
Trip got postponed again but this time due to forest fires closing one of the highways.
Gives me a little more time to get some details out of the way.
Based on kick in nads thread figured it’s time to drop the spare, grease up the winch and check inflation.
Found the trailer plug bracket was slightly loose so I pulled it off. Tweaked it a bit cause it was slightly bent. Splashed a coat of rust paint on it.
Figured might as well do the wiper arms if I already have the rattle can out.
If that’s not enough for one day maybe pull the valance and clean up under it.
Seriously shocked me how much crud was under there.
I was going to ask how many of those clips survived, things like that get crispy.
Are there any bolts retaining the cowl, or just clips?
They are screws. 9 in total that go into a slip joint type of plastic insert. I’m assuming that this is a 2 piece to accommodate for thermal cycling. $18.09 for a 5 pack from Ford after taxes.
They are screws. 9 in total that go into a slip joint type of plastic insert. I’m assuming that this is a 2 piece to accommodate for thermal cycling. $18.09 for a 5 pack from Ford after taxes.
Looking good sir!
How much was the 10 pack from your other source? Just curious.
Aren’t they gonna have to take that back off to replace your windshield?
Lordco was just shy of $30.00 for the 10pack.
The “cowl vent” / valance / nut and bolt holder thingie will need to be removed for the windshield but the grommets don’t. I didn’t replace ( just reused ) the black plugs on the under hood side for that reason.
Not sure when the new glass is going in yet. Waiting for the account to recover from unexpected / unplanned repairs,( airbags and front tires ).
Shocks were next on my list, but the tires ate that budget up. Rancho RS 5000, bilstein 4600, or 5100.
The 4600 are what I’m leaning towards.
Just tell the glass shop you want a windshield for a 2016 suerduty lariat, it will have superduty logo top center and have the accoustic layer.
Still haven’t done anything about the windshield. Not even made a phone call. Have done some digging though and here is a cut and paste from a thread I found.
Here are the part numbers for our windshields: Ford uses Carlite brand windshields. If you request a Carlite windshield it will have the FORD logo on it and will say "SuperDuty" at the top. ~Carlite~ 1999-2016 With Top Tint: DW01537 or DW01505(Pre 2002) Interchangeable 1999-2016 NO Top Tint: DW01522 or DW01319(Pre 2002) Interchangeable
We chose to stay home instead of headed to the property for this week due to massive amounts of forest fires directly following our record breaking heat wave.
We are slightly NE of 100 Mile House Snapshot of our Province. We keep having dry lightning storm’s sparking new fires.
I bought this figuring the hard wire installation may be cleaner when put into the accessory charging port instead of plugging in a USB/ voltage meter.
This way I can slide the cover closed, out of sight, out of mind, nice and clean.
Now I’m starting to question my logic since it is an always live circuit and what the parasitic draw may be from the LED voltage gauge.
Am I overthinking this… should I run it to an ignition source… install an in-line switch… or go NIKE, just do it???
