Why are we recommending to snip the wire on this version of the fuel bowl heater? This is the good heater, right? I thought the thin wire one was the one prone to shorting.

 

I have sent in a inquiry to their technical department so hopefully will hear back from them for diesel applications.


Agreed that this is the new style FBH. So will it not short out, or is it just less likely to short out.

I really don’t want to take the chance on blowing that fuse on an 8% climb with 8500lbs in tow. Anywhere for that matter.

 

It doesn’t blow the fuse like that. There aren’t that many conditions that call for fuel bowl heater and pulling a grade towing isn’t likely to be one of them.

 

I was more referring to the most in-opportune time for something like that to happen, not for that to be the cause of a short. Mr. Murphy the optimist sometimes has a way of following people around.

Last thing I need if for the wife to say... see I told you ya shouldn’t have mucked with the truck. It WAS running fine.

 

No, it will leave you stranded. The PCM decides to turn the heater on about 3 blocks from home. Usually downhill and obviously the worst weather conditions.

I support unplugging the heater. Either inside or outside the filter.

 

It will be unplugged inside the fuel bowl.

Never heard back from Oatey so I squirted the Gasoila into a mixing cup and went to town. Seemed good so I used it.

Fuel fitting are in the heads, and HPOP lines are now installed.

This weekend she lives again. Should’ve been done by now but Husband and Dad duties take priority.

 

Digging these upgrades man, I've got my job list for this fall and winter.

How many kms on it now?

 

196,000km. Probably won’t hit 200k this year.

Travel restrictions right now prevent me from getting to my property, but that is supposed to be changed soon.

 

Your last comment makes me twitch... Let’s just say that’s not cool and leave it there. I hate that you’re going through this.

 

With my work I’m allowed to travel throughout the entire province of British Columbia and have a letter stating so.

Recreational travel is restricted. I’d have a hard time convincing them I’m going for work purposes with the Wife, 2-dogs, and the 30’ travel trailer in tow.

We are totally self sufficient for up to a week boondocking on our property. Would only need fuel once for the entire round trip.

Today was supposed to be the start of my holidays for a week, but I cancelled them instead of a staycation.

 

It’s alive. Only took about 15 seconds turning over for it to light.

I primed the hpop lines so there wasn’t a ton of air in them.

No fuel or oil leaks so far but it has only idled for about a minute.

Did a boost leak test once I got it all back together and had to tighten a couple of clamps.

PO had a transmission cooler installed and a hose clamp was rubbing against the intercooler. It was showing oil. Wasn’t sure if it was from CCV or Trans.

Bubbles tell the story. Intercooler is leaking.

Ran another db test on the cold start.

Before anything done.

H&H completed

FRx , fuel lines, and HPOP. Some of the db has come up in the upper frequencies, but there is also a drop in lower. I’m sure there is some air in the oil rail that still has to work its way out.

 

Sunday was the day of rest.

Yesterday was a National Holiday for Queen Victoria.

This evening after work I’m going to take the truck out and top up fuel, and drive for a while to shake down for any fuel or oil leaks, as well as work out any air that might be in the HPO system.

To fix the leak on the intercooler I will have to pull it out. I can’t weld aluminum so thinking it will be done with JB Weld. Once I get it out and all cleaned up I will assess.

Since I’m pulling the rad to get the intercooler out then I might as well do a full flush and go ELC. I’ve seen the write ups on the flush procedure.

What is the purpose of the distilled water? Is that to ensure there’s no minerals and a neutral Ph balance, or something to do with the ELC itself?

Everything I’ve ever worked on in the past has got the “ dump in green, top up with garden hose” treatment.

 

You don’t have to remove the radiator if you take the top crossmember above the CAC out.



Distilled water because we’re all kleenrrrooomm schientishts up in here.



Seriously though, what SSJ says below.

 

You don’t want the minerals in the cooling system.

Many of the common FTE methods suggest flushing the system with distilled water, but I don’t think that is adequate. I drain and collect all of the coolant - including block drains and FLUSH with garden hose running and all drains open. Engine running. Flush until clear, then replace drains, drive truck and repeat. Remove heater core return from water pump and back flush the heater core while block drains are open.

Then dump distilled water through heater core after blowing it out. You could fill system with distilled and drain again, but really no need. The minerals left in that tiny bit of water aren’t gonna hurt anything.

Fill system with at least one gallon of concentrate (to compensate for the little water that may be in there) and 6 gallons of 50/50, then top off with distilled water. Or use concentrate and distilled.

Lately, I fill system with heater hose off water pump until coolant gets to there - then install hose. Never fill degas bottle over 1/2 way until after you’ve gotten about 7gals in or you’ll get a volcano when the air burps out.

I recommend a billet t-stat housing and Motorcraft t-stat. It’s also a great time to add a valve to heater core supply for colder AC. A 3/4” PEX barbed valve works great for this.

 

The water in our area is very soft, i always flushed with the garden hose and used the same water to fill. Never an issue.In the past i did use distilled water but never noticed any difference. Now in places where the water is hard, use distilled water.