Comment on the "bare wire" where they were sealed together.

it is very common when you try to "split" two wires apart, that the insulation will strip away from one of the two wires.

just about impossible to prevent it.

If you need to keep using the connector, clean the residue as best you can of the oils.

then daub some Rubber Cement into the connector.

 

when I get into this type of situation...I look for other spare parts I can order to make it worthwhile. I've also noticed Riffraff's shipping being a lot higher than it used to be. Diesel Orings has more reasonable shipping and the last time I looked they had free shipping if you spent a certain amount

 

New one has already been spliced in.

It was kinda weird how they were connected at just one spot.



upper left is what’s left of the red seal.

upper right is what’s left of the grey inner seal/ wire isolating material.

you can see the fat spot on the red wire and that was where the wires were fused together.

 

Today I finally dug into the lingering fuel pressure issue.

I removed the new ford fuel pressure regulator. Took the o-ring off the seat and the seal off the poppet and switched them over to the ones I removed in the summer.





I also installed a new fuel pressure regulator spring from Riff Raff and went with the black spring for 70psi.




Since I needed to pull the fuel filter and cap I finally switched back to the Ford factory fuel filter cap. Used the tool that I made to tighten it up.






Fired it up and lo and behold. We have solid FP that finally correlates to the spring installed.





As a side note… with the GPR mounted to the inner fender man can you ever hear that thing chunk in. I think I will have to install a couple of rubber bushings to isolate.

 

So the seat and spring. What was the difference?

 

I believe it was the poppet itself.

Prior to today when I tried the various springs the FP was always 10ish lbs below the spring rating.

To be safe I did purchase a new bag of springs and since it’s such a pita to access with the FRx I decided to do the seat, poppet and spring at the same time instead of individually to isolate the culprit. So in short can’t be 100% sure.

I was ready to cut the return line and install an aftermarket FPR if I didn’t have success today.

When closely examined side by side the new poppet did appear a touch longer in the seal seat area.



Hindsight and I should have put a vernier caliper on it to confirm. But quite honestly after spending $$$ and literally days last summer this was the last job I wanted to do and was looking to get it done quickly.

I still have one hard line and 2 flex lines to be done and get some 30r9 fuel line and clamps out of the system from the diagnosis procedure.


Been putting that off as well because of the lingering diesel fuel cologne that my wife dislikes when I get that stuff on me.

 

Sorry, I don’t remember all the details.

You had FP issues —> replaced the seat, poppet, and seal with new —> then it had 10# less than desired?

If this is related to bad new parts, what brand FPR did you use?

 

Fuel pressure issues due to rusty fuel.
Changed some parts… didn’t help. Changed FPR -F81Z-9B249-BB directly from Ford. That helped but didn’t fix my problem so I continued along replacing parts to no avail.

Today I went back and revisited the FPR and hallelujah, but **** me off at the same time. Let’s just say it was a bitter sweet find.

 

Darn. Bad parts right out of the box can really mess with troubleshooting. Glad you’ve got it all fixed up!

 

Got after the flexible fuel line replacement.

Man is it ever difficult to get at these quick release fittings from the motor hard lines.

The feed line was removed during the summer diagnostic process and was replaced from pump to hard line with 30r9. I have purchased the Riff Raff flexible lines to eliminate the 30r9 from the pressure side of the pump.

These flex lines come as a set so changing out the return as well. Ya gotta be triple jointed to get yer hands up in there. Once you do there is no leverage when laying on your back.

fought with this one for about 20 minutes before throwing in the towel. Drained the coolant and going to remove the lower rad hose to try and make more room to get a better angle at it.


This one is the frame side and fairly easy to get to

Best part of this job is the diesel fuel cologne.

 

I moved mine to same area a few years ago. What I did with feed wire instead of extending it I went to junkyard and cut out a new cable from another relay with the fusible links and abijt a foot of the matching cable. Then just ran a new wire from 12v side of starter relay to the gpr mounted in fender. Was cleaner in the end and lot less wires running back and forth. So the stock feed wire just runs to the alternator now.

 

Finally got the fuel lines completed.

Those flex lines between the motor and frame are not for the faint of heart.

Both the feed and return line disconnects fought me to the bitter end.

For anybody doing this job in the future disconnect from the frame location first ( easy ). Feed the hose through the inner fender and have an assistant ready to pull the line off. To make the engine side disconnect easier drain the rad and remove the lower hose from the waterpump. I would also recommend that you give these engine side connections a thorough soaking with penetrating oil a couple days in advance. Once the release tool is inserted have your helper put some tension on the hose and twist.

Both my engine side hard lines were surface rusty so
I gave them a quick polish with some 400grit.

Not sure why Ford didn’t use stainless for these hard lines like they did for all the other fuel lines on the truck.


I used the Riff Raff lines to replace the factory flex lines. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...to-bowl-99-03/ They have dual orings to seal to the hard line and JIC for the flex line to the fitting.


There is a c-cut into one side of the fitting that slips over the line, and a slot cut into this that locks the fitting onto the hard line.

Install the feed line first then the return line on the motor side.



Now install the return line to frame then the feed line. Pay attention to that. I completely installed the feed line then had to disconnect at the frame to get to the return line fitting.




Cycled the key 3 times and no drips.

Now just to put the lower coolant hose back on and fill with ELC.

28th anniversary today so done for the day. Spending some quality time with my Wife.

 

And you’re wearing her favorite, diesel cologne.

Happy anniversary!

 

Based on another thread where there was discussions about airflow restrictions to the cooling stack I’ve been bouncing some ideas around in my head.

The discussion also lead to Y2K imparting knowledge and wisdom about correct locations and aiming for the fog lights.

Having said that I have picked up some 3 inch LED pod lights that are dual function spot and flood which will be aimed low.

The OEM fog lights will be removed along with the license plate bracket. Still searching for the right mesh of expanded metal to protect the stack but allow good airflow.

Mock-up fitted in place. Moves them down 10inches and out by 12inches. Still trying to figure out the mounting method.

 

Looks like the same fog lights I was eyeballing yesterday. My OEM fogs are goners and the bumper is out of shape just enough that OEM replacements will not mate to mounting holes.

I kinda like that location for the light projection. Maybe a bit more vulnerable to damage but they are not expensive and that's a quick and easy location to replace them.