Headlights are installed.

Drivers side brakes are back together. Greased the wheel bearing and serviced the locking hub while it was apart this time as well.

Next is to re&re the passengers side to check my work, with hub and bearing service as well.

Then upper rad hose, belt and find the ‘ squeaky wheel ‘ which will get the next $$$ grease.

Then I’m done for 2020.

 

Famous last words

 

How much antifreeze would I anticipate to drain off so that I can change the upper rad hose without having it puke out onto the driveway from t-stat housing?

 

2-3 gallons should be plenty.

 

Thank you Sir !

That is probably the easiest thing I have done on this truck to date.

 

I stayed true to my words. In fact didn’t even get that punch list done. Still have to find the noisy pulley.

Been thinking lots on the lower rpm turbo light. KC Stage 1, like sjbj... seems like the smaller 363 is making racingjason happy.

However funds are tight, and the Canadian Dollar doesn’t go near as far as your USD. I’m thinking the 360° rebuild, with the KC 300x turbine wheel mated up to my existing WW2.

I’m already extremely happy with the trucks performance to date, but as we know... there’s always room for improvement/ maintenance.

I must keep PMS in check this year. Just in the middle of a 10k bathroom reno.

 

Yes I am happy with my lower rpm 363/68 turbo which Charlie said is similar to a KC stage 1.

For the record, KC actually recommended I do the Stock Plus for my usage when I called before starting on my adventure. The Stock Plus is their balanced assembly in a new turbo. So your idea of adding the KC S300 turbine would basically put you where they recommended I go.

You would likely be happy with either direction.

 

Little brown box with yellow ribbons is currently in transit. Going with RDP braided fuel feed lines, and Diesel O-Rings fuel bowl rebuild for now.

Once I get some stuff disconnected I will evaluate the turbo for the 360° and KC 300. Available fairly local to me so no 3 week wait for parts to arrive.

Now here’s a question. JIC HPOP Lines. Seen them on Amazon and EBay as low as $50.00 up to $180.00. CNC wants $150.00, RDP $247.00 Cdn. Anybody had a bad experience with the less expensive ( cheap )lines? I can’t justify in my head the extra $$$ if its hydraulic line to hydraulic line.

 

This is a regular discussion these days. First, you can have 100% confidence the parts from the domestic suppliers will work upon delivery. You could get a pus s y Hamper instead of what you actually ordered (happened to me!). My experience is limited, but the quality of products used for these applications is all over the map. From the hose to the ends to the type of tool used to make the crimps.

Second, A failure of these parts leaves you stranded. This ALWAYS happens at the worst time.

CNC Fab started out with different materials and learned they were not adequate fir the application in spite of their ‘rated capacities’. There is something to be said for experiencing a learning curve.

 

I recently did a lot of work in the valley on my truck.
I replaced my stock fuel lines with the RDP braided/coated fuel feed lines. I like them, I had no problem with the stock lines except I didnt like the way the hard line is very close to the T4 mounting plate. They also went in way easier than the stock ones came out. Fuel bowl to drivers side head cleans up the valley a little as it routes up and over rather than low through the valley.

I also replaced the HPOP lines with the updated ones from RDP. Again nothing wrong with the 20 year old ones that were in there but my thinking was that as a item, as SkiSkyJason says, could leave you stranded if one of these leaks. So now I have a backup set of lines that could be swapped out to stock fittings if one fails. I didnt want to spent a lot to have a backup set.

 

I have two of the RDP braided lines to replace the OEM lines in my garage waiting to go on. If you are looking for close up pictures or something specific for comparison, I can help you out with that. I have a "pre-production" version as I asked about the lines just after installing my T4 system when I had some concerns about the OEM hard fuel line crossing the T4 pedestal.

They are made of the same material that the FRx lines are made of and are high quality. I do not like and would not recommend installing braided lines that are not shielded or coated like the the RDP lines are. Bare braided lines can turn into a saw for anything they come into contact with on a vibrating engine. I have seen this in the past from first hand experience in other vehicle applications.

I would NOT recommend going cheap on HPOP lines or fittings and/or fuel lines or fittings. Sometimes the best option is not the cheapest option. Sometimes it is, but when looking at 3000 PSI, I would want confidence in lines and fittings when running down the road at 65 MPH.

I had the very first "new" HPx line from Corey at CNC Fabrication. It leaked through the hose membrane, literally seeped through. You can go back several years and see pictures and better details from that time, but that is basically what happened. The line was rated for the PSI and oil, but failed despite being having the proper specifications. Corey made it right by me and gave me a full refund and then sent me the updated HPx line that would work. I ended up selling that line to another FTE'r for next to nothing as I no longer desired to have an HPx line.

Good on you for seeking advice from those that have been at the point you are before you, lessons learned from others are much easier and cheaper than learning them yourself.

 

Yeah... Thanks for the replies on the HPOP Lines.

I know I don’t want cheap chinesieum and that is an extremely important part when it comes to keeping the truck running.

I have reached out to a couple of local diesel performance shops and waiting to hear back from them as to what they have for inventory prior to the online cross border shopping. Exchange and shipping costs kill me.

 

RDP JIC HPOP going on order. That’s a lot of acronyms.

FRx I’m still on the fence about (Thanks for the PM info Shayne) but leaning to the no side.

The larger KC 300 turbine wheel, will that increase ebp?
I know on FORScan last year I was almost 2-1 ebp to map. That was after de-fuelling. Just prior I was at 51ebp-39map.

That was before SDK Hydra, and was with Hypertech tune. Maybe I should hook it up and see where the current tunes have me running.

 

The larger turbine wheel and upgraded compressor wheel should keep EBP in check.

Ive got a truck here with 160/30’s and the KC 300 balanced assembly. Reminds me I need to get some data logs before it goes...,

 

I’ve got the WW2 with less than 5000 miles on it so I’m sticking with that wheel.

Does the KC 360° rebuild come with pedestal o-rings or do I need that as a separate kit?

Turbo reinstall... loosen the manifold to up pipes... loosen up pipes to collector... place turbo, connect baby’s butt, retighten ups to manifold and collector.

Are those reusable gaskets or do I need to order those as well.

Just want to make sure I have everything on hand before I tear into it.