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‘00’ is a pass through for stock tuning. Like not having a chip. This would still be the programmer tune if you haven’t removed it... Didn’t think about that earlier - I was trying to see how you feel about stock PMT2 transmission logic. That is usually better than what most tuners do ducking with shift strategy.
‘00’ is a pass through for stock tuning. Like not having a chip. This would still be the programmer tune if you haven’t removed it... Didn’t think about that earlier - I was trying to see how you feel about stock PMT2 transmission logic. That is usually better than what most tuners do ducking with shift strategy.
So what do you suggest should be my plan of attack from here. PMT 2 feels great to me. Should I ask him to remove his shifting strategy, and stick with stock? Will that run a risk of higher trans temp with the tunes?
I’ve read that there are different PCM codes and is it possible the wrong tunes code is loaded for the pcm code causing this? I would think that Dan would have run a scan on the truck to ensure he had it right.
I did have an issue years ago when it popped and died. Went into limp mode. Took it to a shop and they had to re-flash something. Maybe a different code on the PCM from that? IDK
I’d just get in touch with Dan since he did all the work. I would imagine he could get you fixed up quickly.
He (or you) should be able to read the PCM code with the Hydraflash software.
For the last couple of days the 4 letter swearword got in my way to go see Dan. ( WORK ).
Today I got the truck there. We went for a drive, had a good talk, I showed him what it's doing, he had his laptop and was programming as we talked. As he explained PCM and shifting logics it's no wonder it's hard to get it right, at least the first time. I wouldn't even come close to repeating him correctly, but in a nutshell, program ask's tc to lock up here, PCM commands lock up there. Pretty much different on every truck. Mine was telling way early, as well as the programming asking early, not sure if it was a KM to miles thing. Didn't ask either.
Back to his shop, and he plugged it in an loaded the changes. Different truck!!! I see what you guys mean by real tunes now that I can actually put some power to the ground.
Two and a half weeks until I hook up the trailer and and really try the tow tune, but I bet i'll be smiling the whole way.
Great to hear! Glad you’re enjoying all the time and money you’ve invested into the project.
It’s awesome you got to ride with him and see some magic.
My shift logic is all messed up too. Nice to hear you explain the tune and PCM fighting each other a bit. Explains some of what I’ve been dealing with. Shifts great if wide open. Way to early if light throttle. I’ll end up with some custom tunes down the road. The Hydra makes it easy.
Great to hear! Glad you’re enjoying all the time and money you’ve invested into the project.
It’s awesome you got to ride with him and see some magic.
My shift logic is all messed up too. Nice to hear you explain the tune and PCM fighting each other a bit. Explains some of what I’ve been dealing with.
Not really fighting against each other, but more not totally coordinated.
As he explained it... I will paraphrase ... they purposely program to shift early and keep the truck in the torque range. TC lockup to prevent it from spinning creating power loss and tranny temp.
IMO Racing strategy. Cool if you have the hp and torque and the lower rpm spool to pull it off, but when it locks up at 2200 as it really started to light and drops me to 1600ish that was less than ideal.
Take it out of OD and step on it at 80km - 50mph and I was quickly over the posted speed at 28lbs boost.
Not my driving style though. It was nice to have him sit beside me as I drove. Feels MUCH better now. May be some room for improvement. Need more time behind the wheel. Time will tell.
As he explained it... I will paraphrase ... they purposely program to shift early and keep the truck in the torque range. TC lockup to prevent it from spinning creating power loss and tranny temp.
Thanks for the explanation.
Cool if you have the hp and torque and the lower rpm spool to pull it off, but when it locks up at 2200 as it really started to light and drops me to 1600ish that was less than ideal.
THIS! This is what I’ve been dealing with since the T4 SXE install. Runs great wide open. Shifts too quick and kills it when light on the throttle.
Take it out of OD and step on it at 80km - 50mph and I was quickly over the posted speed at 28lbs boost.
Front brakes today. Noticed it pulling left a little under heavy braking last trip. Decided to check slide pins on calipers. Top left was dry and sticky. Bottom was good. Slide pins cleaned up. Top has 3 flat sections bottom is perfectly round. Correct positioning?
Brake pads. 16 years old. Lots of meat left, but almost like it’s flaking. Trash, or run them?
Rotors, kinda flaky rust in the cooling fins Replace or clean up and run.
EBC Yellowstuff pads are the best stopping power you can get. Pads that last a long tine and don’t make dust don’t stop worth a spit.
My guess is those rotors are undersize
and need replacement.
The best slide pin lube is good ole dielectric grease.
She’s already back on her feet. New Rotors and pads. Dielectric for the slidepins as I have read on many posts here. NAPA Premium for the pads. Got a screaming deal on them.
First I got the employee discount, don’t ask my why, then they handed me the rear pads. Those won’t fit I said. She checked and then gave me the fronts for the same price. Still dropped $400, to lube the caliper slide pins.
Now to finish what I really intended to get done today. Give her a bath. Before. After.
Paint is fading out on the grill. Has anybody tried taping off the chrome and painting with a rattle can. It’s been bugging me for a few weeks now. Not high on the list of priorities but made it onto a list.
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I see what you guys mean by real tunes now that I can actually put some power to the ground.
