Starting Point
Thanks for that. Not sure if you kept reading through the thread after that post.
Since then Dan has done some work on my tranny as well as live tuned my truck.
The guy that bought my truck put in 238/100 injectors in it and let me take it for a spin. WOW, unbelievable how much power it has.
Hard to justify the purchase since I can’t see ever using them again. I’m gonna go bug a neighbour and see if he has a set.
Still have to procure the 3/8 aluminum tubing, but have everything else gathered for the H & H.
How much time should I set aside for this, working on the ground, floor jack for lowering and raising the tank.
Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRC...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Don’t use aluminum. It fatigue cracks with vibration.
SSJ can probably do it in an hour with his experience level.
Don’t forget to cut the fill and vent tubes back for the Harpoon mod while in there. It was easily worth the $20 or so dollar investment for the pvc cutter, which I’ve used on other projects since.
Otherwise maybe a little rolled plastic sheet might work back in there to release the spring. Have a fairly thin plastic hose you can split and cut down to size? Without the proper tool you may spend a crazy amount of time working with something that should take 10 seconds though. Might consider blowing out and spraying with some penetrating oil before trying to get it off.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Driving down to RDP in Oregon is closer than driving to meet you in the forest though, but thanks for the offer.
Found a cheap set local to me if my neighbour doesn’t have a set.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/9-pc-a-c-and-fuel-line-quick-disconnect-tool-set/product/PA0008947517
This is the ‘tube-in-hose’ termination I use. The aluminum tubing is inside the wire loom and runs continuously through the tees and heater hose. This system has a looped return, so (hot) fuel is returned to the suction line instead of returning to tank.
H & H the SSJ method. Prior to dropping the tank for this I will measure db of engine both at cold start and at operating temperature, then again once the H&H is done.
Once I get those readings I will move to under the hood installs. I generally like to do things one at a time so that there is always a base line to compare but with everything on the top end to be done that doesn’t make sense in this case.
Diesel O-Rings fuel bowl rebuild kit, RDP fuel lines, RDP JIC HPOP lines, RDP FRx.
Still gotta open up the CAI on the turbo and check it out for play. If there is any then KC Turbo 300x turbine wheel and 360° rebuild kit
As I go back and have re-read this thread, and have literally lurked 100’s of other’s
#1- I’m amazed at what I have learned in the past year.
#2- How awesome “this” community is. I spent a couple months researching prior to deciding which forum to join.

I’ve been talked down off the ledge a couple of times, and believe I’ve done the same for a couple of others.
A few times I’ve wished that I had an unlimited bankroll and could have just done everything at once, but hindsight is 20-20, and I would have made uneducated decisions and most likely would have paid someone else to do the job.
For some turning the key and knowing it starts is enough.
Knowing why and how the symphony of parts is orchestrated, now that is cool, diagnosing and fixing, even cooler. Besides the scraped knuckles and grime.
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