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I beat my stock unmolested turbo into making +30psi for 70k miles. It had no sign of wear after that. Then I’ve modded literally dozens of trucks with tunes, stock turbo and WG disabled. Many have logged 100k miles or more. No issues.
Ill stop beating the dead horse now. Thanks for putting up with me.
So all trucks had tunes on them? Any results with same disconnect and cranked wastegate with no tunes. 1249 for sure, but what about 238 and 478?
Here it is. You can see where the hypertech tuner is asking for 4-5ms of fuel PW, and the PCM tries to support it with climbing IPR % DC, but the HPOP can't keep up and the ICP falls. ICP keeps up pretty well (2800 psi or so) when PW is 3.2ms or less.
Reminded me of a similar chart I made with the last truck, climbing Steven's Pass at 19K gross with the DP tow tune. That tune was also asking for more ICP due to long fuel PW:
Tugly added the notations for his AE class.
Backing into our driveway and started puking 🤮 tranny fluid again. Temp was Max 175*
Into neutral and 1500-1700 for a couple of minutes to cool the tranny. Down to 160 ish.
Put it into 4 Low and Backed it in the rest of the way. No more fluid leak. Temporary solution for now. Gotta have the tranny pulled and the seal changed as suggested by SSJ.
Unhooked and switched back to 2 high but it stayed in 4Low. AC blowing out defrost for a couple of seconds then back to vents. Turned AC and heater into off position. Still in 4Low. Reverse a bit, still 4L. Slow tour around the block, still 4L. Where do I start to diagnose.
Backing into our driveway and started puking 🤮 tranny fluid again. Temp was Max 175*
Into neutral and 1500-1700 for a couple of minutes to cool the tranny. Down to 160 ish.
Put it into 4 Low and Backed it in the rest of the way. No more fluid leak. Temporary solution for now. Gotta have the tranny pulled and the seal changed as suggested by SSJ.
Unhooked and switched back to 2 high but it stayed in 4Low. AC blowing out defrost for a couple of seconds then back to vents. Turned AC and heater into off position. Still in 4Low. Reverse a bit, still 4L. Slow tour around the block, still 4L. Where do I start to diagnose.
I ALWAYS use 2WD low in reverse when backing up the 5th wheel or a heavy load. Not 4WD low, 2WD low. This has been a life saver for my ZF6 truck.
Are your hubs in auto or lock? Are they manual or OEM style auto hubs? If they are manual, turn them to free. If they are auto, them then to auto if not already there.
You can get under the truck and actuate the transfer case to 2WD from 4WD manually if you need to.
You appear to have a slow/light vacuum leak in the system somewhere based on the defrost only for a few seconds.
What year is your truck? Look in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder under the header Axles & Hubs for the 2002 ESOF diagnosis procedures from the Ford Service Manual. The reason why there is a 2000 and a 2002 is because of the GEM vs VSM equipped trucks.
My issue was a combination of a broken wire and a loose connector. I'd say start with the easy stuff - check fuses, check shift relays, check connectors on transfer case, pull codes. Then follow the ESOF diagnosis procedures Sous has pointed you to.
Truck must be in neutral or park and brake applied to shift in/out of low range. Leave in in neutral for a bit with foot on brake before switching back to 2WD.
If that doesn’t work check fuses, etc. If that doesn’t fix it you’ll need to scan it for codes to help narrow down the problem.
Always use low range for slow speed trailer maneuvers. It’s soooooo much easier on the transmission. You can just unplug the power to vacuum solenoid on passenger fenderwell to disable hubs or add a switch like Sous did.
Ive used the 4Low before but never neutral to lock or unlock. I guess I switched it while in neutral to cool the tranny. It truly locked this time, and needed to be in neutral to unlock.
No owner’s manual with the truck so google was my friend here today.
2001 OEM hubs and in auto, no option for 2low.
I will dig into the thread and get to the bottom of the vacuum leak.
thanks again guys.
On edit: slow to typing and missed both of SSJ’s posts.
You can do like SSJ pointed out and disconnect the ESOF plug in the engine bay to use the 2wd Low option. I did that for about a year. I then added the switch in my cab like Sous which he created a good video on. It works great. Just be aware that some people (myself included) had issues with it not working using the gray/black ground wire. I had to use the blue/pink power wire in order for mine to work correctly. I always use it to back in my 5'er anymore and I also use it to tow my 5'er up very steep, slow crawling grades to get the low end torque and keep my transmission temps down. I burned up my transmission prior to doing this. Using this mod now, it always keeps my trans temps in check.
I’ve been quoted from $1200 to $1500 from 2 tranny shops for the seal replacement as well as pump bushing and seal.
SDK is $1000 and he can get me done tomorrow since he had a cancellation. For that savings it’s getting dropped off this afternoon and the Hydra is going in as well. Comes with 5 of his tunes, and the stock library of PHP.
Got to pick up a vacuum gauge and pump to trace the leak, and will have to watch the video tutorial prior to the 2wd low range mod.
I did say that next up was drivetrain, but didn’t anticipate it coming this soon. Looks like I’ll be working it from front to back.
