Starting Point
When I push the reset button I can hear it suction as it resets to zero correctly.
1. Please recap for us what turbo with what modifications (billet wheel, KC turbine, etc) you are running.
2. Do you have the red line capped off?
3. What tuner and tunes are you running?
4. If you are running tunes, do you see a difference in how far the filter minder is pulled in various HP tunes?
5. Do you have a boost gauge and if you do, what boost numbers are you seeing when the filter minder is pulled?
6. Does the filter minder get pulled if you are gentle on the throttle?
7. You may have to drive around, stopping often and checking the filter minder often all while taking notes so you don't forget what you have seen and under what circumstances.
8. Any other obstructions in the intake tube? I know this is unlikely, but we have seen it before.
Last year did reseal on manifolds, bellowed up's, ebpv delete, and ww2.
Still having low boost and high egt.
This year, boost leak test... 5 locations. Plenum reseal, RR inserts, CAC boots and clamps, replaced the MAP hose with proper clamps. Had the hypertech given to me so installed, and 6637.
Did that all at the same time. I usually only do one mod at a time so I can monitor and know exactly what is causing what effect.
The filter minder is just something that I noticed so I thought I would post that up and see if anybody else had experienced it. More an observation at this point but something I would like to get resolved. Wish I had a friend with a 7.3 to swap some parts with for comparison. Didn't note the % on the minder when I first reset it from the stock airbox.
1. Please recap for us what turbo with what modifications (billet wheel, KC turbine, etc) you are running.
Stock 2001 SD turbine with EBPV Deleted, WW2 wheel.
2. Do you have the red line capped off?
Redline currently capped off due to rusted wastgate actuator line fitting snapped off. New one currently in transit.
3. What tuner and tunes are you running?
Hypertech 41012, with only one tune on it, so I would only be able to drop back to stock for comparison.
4. If you are running tunes, do you see a difference in how far the filter minder is pulled in various HP tunes?
5. Do you have a boost gauge and if you do, what boost numbers are you seeing when the filter minder is pulled?
Boost gauge will hit 24lbs easily then defuelling due to crappy tune from hypertech. SDK next since his shop is 5 minutes from my house.
6. Does the filter minder get pulled if you are gentle on the throttle?
Never checked when running about the city, only after pulling the trailer.
7. You may have to drive around, stopping often and checking the filter minder often all while taking notes so you don't forget what you have seen and under what circumstances.
Good call. I will get to that next week after the new wastegate actuator is installed.
8. Any other obstructions in the intake tube? I know this is unlikely, but we have seen it before.
I will remove the rest of the intake tube up to the compressor and take a look.
Since the filter itself is good and there is nothing surrounding the filter blocking flow then I think this path of investigation has hit its end for now. Possibly just a touchy or iffy minder.
Any restriction on the turbo side of the filter minder should not be effecting the minder. It should be pulling (Percentage on minder) due to seeing a vacuum in the system at the minder (which would be the filter side). Restrictions on the turbo side would cause a vacuum between said restriction and the turbo but not show on the minder. Make sense? If this is correct then looking between the minder and turbo will be a waste of time.

There are allegedly differences in filter minders. The AIS minder is s’posed to be ‘more sensitive’.
Ive only RARELY used Napa filters because they are toooo damn expensive. I’ve been buying a few at a time from Riffraff for years now.
Wondering if a no-filter run would yield lower EGT? Either implicating or eliminating the filter as a suspect??
Let’s put this on the back burner for now.
New Actuator, and filter minder will be installed.
Next weekend I’m doing the exact same trip back up to my property so I will have a direct comparison.
Without the trailer load on there were no issues other than p1249 (red line disconnected) which I know is overboost. 238 and 478 both came up with the trailer on which are MAP and EBP. My feeling is that this is all related.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I religiously crank the actuator adjustment all the way down and delete the red and green hoses.
We do not need a WG. Especially with stock or mild injectors.
The high EGT is likely just the result of poor tuning if no drive pressure or boost leaks.
When I had stock injectors and stock turbo - with good tuning - it was almost impossible to get over 1250*. That is driving STUPID at 22k lbs GCW in my hottest tune (dyno’ed 324HP).
In my 60tow I could run WOT up the grapevine for hours and never go over 1100*. That is in 100* temps with the AC blowing cold.
You have room for improvement, but I’m not sure your plan addresses it...
Thinking out loud, I wonder if unhooking the MAP sensor wire will prevent de-fueling and allow you to see if more boost reduces EGT at full tilt??
You could have some dislodged filter media inside the cavity restricting air flow. Probably not, but it is easy to check.
Donaldson has wire mesh inside the filter
For me right now is the issue of pulling the trailer for 4 1/2 hours with the cel screaming at me. I want that to tell me when something is actually wrong.
Im sure the hypertech is not helping me with the codes but at this point don’t have the funds for a good tuner, and maybe just go back to stock for now.
Does a good tune also address the map and ebp codes that I’m seeing now?
Im going to have a conversation with SDK on Monday and see what he has to say.
I think your conversation with Dan K is a great idea and he is a great resource to have close to you.
Go speak with him, let him know hat you are seeing from the truck and what you would like to see. Let him give you a COA (course if action) to achieve your goals.
Then, be happy!
There is a point where more boost isn’t helpful. But I don’t feel like you’re near that threshold yet.
For me right now is the issue of pulling the trailer for 4 1/2 hours with the cel screaming at me. I want that to tell me when something is actually wrong.
Yes that would bother me too.
Im sure the hypertech is not helping me with the codes but at this point don’t have the funds for a good tuner, and maybe just go back to stock for now.
Stock may be your best option for the time being...... even though I hate saying that because I hate stock.

Budget is a real thing unfortunately and sometimes it stinks being a grownup. Maybe the Hypertech won’t work while towing but you could instead use it when running empty. That might get you by for a while. A silver lining to this is it may give you time to decide exactly what you do want when the time comes.
Does a good tune also address the map and ebp codes that I’m seeing now?
I don’t know about “good” tunes but I've ran PHP (OBS & current), Banks(OBS), Tony Wildman, and TS(don’t judge it came with the truck). None of these would defuel. TW did set the SES but it would go back off after a couple minutes. TS was the worst for shifting and unrefined feel. I actually liked the Banks with my manual trans in the OBS. Someone gave me a Banks for my current truck. Tried it once but it requires a separate module for trans tuning so the shifts were way too soft. My current setup is with PHP on the Hydra. Toss up between it and the TW except the TW is on an old 6 position chip and it also sets the SES as I mentioned. So the PHP has the edge for me right now.
Im going to have a conversation with SDK on Monday and see what he has to say.
I agree with Sous. This sounds like a great idea! It will give you something to think about as the funds grow and also help steer you on how to cope for the time being.
Of course SDK being local may make potential future reburns not an issue. Biggest problem with the old 6 position is having to send it off and wait for revisions. If you can just drop it off down the street then maybe a 6 position is a viable option for you. And possibly SDK can make you a decent deal on one which would change your purchase timeline.

Looked almost brand new inside, well ok, it was black but looked nothing like the videos online Where they were fighting to get the wire through the hose and the sensor was plugged with soot.
Ran a bicycle brake line cable down the tube and spun it with the drill and cable came out pretty near clean as well.
I read a post recently and I will quote.
“ I've adopted the philosophy "When in doubt, get it back to what's proven to work". Adding more and more mods to compensate for something that clearly isn't working as it should might fix the problem, might mask the problem, or might add a whole new level to the problem. My experience says the latter is the most likely. “
For now this is my course of action. That and talking with Dan to come up with a future “step by step” progress plan.













