Nah. Good tunes (specifically tuners who know how to fix this issue) don’t require a boost fooler. There is no good reason to use one.

I’ve installed a bunch of Hydra chips with PHP library files and files from other tuners. Haven’t seen a boost fooler for years... No SES and no defueling.

 

Thanks for the answer SSJ! I kept trying to figure out what I was missing. Turns out it was nothing. Lol

So, back to my previous statement to F350. Skip the boost fooler and go for the Hydra.

 

It would be nice to get the Hydra but the $$$ are not available right now. Had a 3 week layoff, and only working 4 days per week now due to Covid. Next year at spring maintenance time I’ll slip it in to the budget 🤫.

Bit of a side note on that. Last year I was talking with a guy about our trucks and he gave me a number for a local tuner. Said he is amazing with the 7.3’s. Dan Krapnick is the contact info he gave me. Less than 2 miles from my house. Anybody heard of him???

Back on task.

How do I get the stock stereo out of the hole without a saws-all... that would be quick but the carnage would be bad. Read somewhere about a removal tool but I’m sure the smart guys here have figured out a way to hillbilly it without it costing a $0.01.

 

I hear ya. We’re cut to a straight 40 hour zero OT and spring bonus has been “delayed” until fall (very thankful it wasn’t cut out as that would be reasonable in the market climate). I work for a good company that takes pretty good care of us but it has still had an impact to cash flow.
Just doesn’t seem right to spend the money on a boost fooler when a bit more (ok maybe 3x more) and you can have the real fix. Wonder if the guys here have a cheap solution that could get you by until next year. Maybe some type of homemade fooler?
I am a bit concerned that without a fooler you may be constantly de-fueling since the billet wheel boosts so quickly.

Never heard of him but that means nothing as I don’t know much.
If he’s that close it may worth speaking with him and making a judgment of his knowledge/abilities.

It’s been so long since I’ve worked with a radio but I’ll take a swing at it and give you something to check into until the experts come back.
I believe these years have holes on either side of the radio front face and require something being stuck in there to release the radio. Seems like I was able to do this with a clothes hanger on a Ford car in the past. Might just want to scope this out until someone else can confirm this theory. Sorry, not near the truck to doublecheck my thoughts right now.

 

Ok, not a ton of details but I did find this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...-stereo-356126

 

You can do it with wire coat hangers'

 

Coat hanger into the 4 holes and flex out, then pull.
Guy on YouTube made it look simple.

 

Coat hangers work. The tool is only $5 or so.

Dan K. writes good tunes (SDK Performance??). I would not use anyone else if he is that close to you. You’ll be AMAZED at the difference compared to what you have now!!

 

I think maybe someone had a problem in the past.

 

I think you may may be able to get those bulb holders from the ‘help’ isle at the autoparts. I think those were used in multiple models...

 

Got one from NAPA. Now it’s time to put the dash back together and do a test run and see if it’s defuelling.

Got the authorization that if the CEL starts flashing I can take it somewhere and have it fixed.

SDK for a Hydra should fix that problem.

 

Think I got the 22lbs and hit the wall figured. It’s the wastegate opening up.

Im going to do 2 more full turns on the Wastegate and leave it hooked up for now, until I can justify tunes next year.

Interesting the correlation of higher boost = lower egt.

Wastegate redline connected.

Redline disconnected.

CEL confirms defuelling.

 

Don’t need a WG. Delete the red and green hoses and crank the WG adjuster ALL THE WAY. I use compressed air to blow it open to make hooking it up easier.

Properly adjusted (SSJ proper ), the WG basically cannot open and reduce the power and efficiency of the engine.

Ive rebuilt LOTS of these turbos. Several dozen. I crank the WG adjuster all the way on every-single-one. Most of the ones I rebuilt, I installed with new up-pipes and other often-neglected maintenance. Most people are simply blown away by increased power and MPG and reduced EGT.

I ran a ‘special’ on these for about 1.5yrs, lol. Rebuilt with 360* thrust washer, powder coated intake and ceramic coated hot parts. 4+4 compressor wheel if you want to buy one.

 

That’s real purrrdy.
Does shiny parts make it go fasterLol. Kinda like all the go fast stickers.

Honestly though that looks great. I’m currently less than a year on turbo rebuild with the ww2 so gotta take a pass.

Until next year when I get the Hydra I’m going to stick with the Wastegate. Can’t have my wife tripping when towing the trailer every time I‘m tripping the cel. Got some more testing to do though. Gonna crank it down until It de-fuels then back it off a tick.

Now I have to burn up 1/2 tank of fuel so I can do the hutch and harpoon. Lead foot testing should help expedite this significantly.

Thanks for all the help and info. You guys here at FTE are Awesome.

 

Defueling isn’t hurting anything. Should not happen until 24psi. You can watch MAP and see it happen like clockwork.

Need to make sure that is what code is setting SES light. It’s common for ****ty programmer tunes to throw P1280, etc because of dumb ICP tables. Some tuners avoid Defueling but haven’t learned how to stop SES light...