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1200 EGT with an empty truck is a bit high, but you can drive by the EGT gauge, keeping it under 1250 degrees, and the transmission under 220 degrees. Once you reduce your intake and exhaust restrictions, you'll be able to stay on the pedal more, pulling that big trailer.
Great that the programmer was free - it will be fun to play with. The programs may not be as good as the custom tunes you can buy with the Hydra, explaining partly why you are hitting 1200 so soon. With the hypertech as a starting point, you will appreciate even more what a good tune does for you.
That is now a top priority on the list. Popped the top off my airbox and sure enough there was some signs of fine particles making it past the filter. No visible cracks and all the clips are there but the left rear seemed to unclip pretty easy which is where the dusting was.
Seems the more time I spend on this site the longer the list gets and the $$$ goes up.
Now I'm also looking at the Hydra. Will EGT be manageable with a tow tune on the stock exhaust or should the exhaust be addressed prior to pulling the trigger on a tuner
Stock exhaust is fine with stock injectors and turbo. There is a slight improvement with straight pipe (muffler delete), but really not much. I prefer the sound of stock straight piped.
Originally Posted by F350towing
Definite improvement on the throttle response all the way through.
Watching the egt and flirting with 1200 on-ramp to freeway. Boost hits about 24 then falls off to 20ish then starts bouncing so I’m guessing that is what is referred to here as degassing.
Re-programmed to firm up the shifting and it feels better so I think I will leave that on for now. Trans temp appears to have dropped a bit, but won’t really know until I hook up the trailer. What is a safe temp to run at?
it is ‘safe’ to run 1250* pre-turbo ALL DAY LONG. You ‘can’ run MUCH MUCH hotter than that and do no damage.
I take my foot out of it at 1250*.
At 24psi, the SES light will come on and ‘defuel’ to prevent making over 24psi.
Dropping back to 20psi leads me to think something is wrong. Often, those toons call for unreasonable ICP and we see ICP drop under sustained WOT. Common to get SES and low ICP codes.
Shifts that ‘bang’ are bad. Those programmers have a reputation for tearing up transmissions - but with a conservative driver, you should be fine.
Those tunes are among the worst. But, with gauges - carry on. When you pull the trigger on Hydra with GOOD tunes, you’ll really appreciate them!!! A lot of people started with dptooner then found out what good tunes were like.
I have ordered the AIH delete and code eliminator, Plenum inserts and CAC boots with t-bolt clamps from Riffraff.
Locally sourced the 6637 air filter from NAPA $126.00, D**M I love living in Canada for pricing.
Still have to pick up the TA-31 to reseal the leaky plenums, then let the fun begin. Tear it down this weekend and slowly reassemble. 24 hrs for the cure on the TA-31 prior to testing?
My wife thinks that I'm spending too much time on this site and am drinking the Kool-aid. No Baby... honestly... maintenance not modifications... Maybe once I get it apart I will "NEED" the FRX.
I don’t know that you’ll be able to snake those plenums back in all that mess without messing up the sealant.
Definitely remove the HPO lines from the heads and I recommend removing the fuel filter assembly as well. This should greatly reduce frustration levels!!
Definitely remove the HPO lines from the heads and I recommend removing the fuel filter assembly as well. This should greatly reduce frustration levels!!
I agree with SSJ but have a word of caution since you have to order parts with lots of shipping costs and probably want to order everything in one shot.
When I worked with a set of the HPO lines, at least 1 of the fittings broke and required a rebuild. Not a big deal but just something to keep in mind when ordering parts. If I had it to do over again I would have replaced using the lines without the quick connects.
Good call. You can just unscrew the HPO lines. Replace the ORB o-rings with viton.
Good point! I couldn’t though since I was changing Dad’s busted HPO line. Man that makes an oily mess.
Those quick connects are a pain. I will never replace with that style again. Turned a rather easy job along the road into week long project.
I’m wondering why F350towing is planning to remove and reseal the driver’s side too if it’s not leaking. Am I crazy here?
Drivers side came off way easier but the last bolt on the bottom was a PITA to get cracked loose. Somewhere down in the backside of the motor, up pipe, or trans, is a 1/2 wrench. I’ll get that back tomorrow.
Found out the hard way what that yellow thingie on the back of the fuel filter is. Heard this fluid splashing on the ground sound. Climb out from under the hood and find diesel leaking onto my asphalt driveway. Thankfully the pressure washer was still hooked up and got it hosed off right away.
HPOP lines... Quick Connect you say??? Special tool required to disconnect? Easy to put back on?
Remove the fuel filter housing... eek... not sure I want to crack those fittings, maybe I will look into local availability of replacement lines first.
So far I’ve found a shop rag, an old mouse nest, and an unusable 3/8 drive socket cause it been down in the valley for so long.
Sure glad this isn’t my daily driver so I have time to put it back together. Still waiting on my parts from RR, but I only ordered on Tuesday so not really expecting them until late next week.
Tomorrow is another day and hopefully by the end of it I will have resealed plenums and most of the harness back in place.