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Used it already when I found all my boost leaks that got me started down this path.
Today was my day off so I managed to get it finished.
Didn’t do the leak test today cause I figured I’d let everything heat up and seat in. Will do that tomorrow.
Took an extra drrr, before the vroom, but the rattle rattle rattle sounded the same.
Let it warm up driving gently before pushing hard on the right pedal. 22lbs, 1100*. I’m happy. Boost is up and EGT is down.
The 6637 isn’t that loud on the acceleration but sure has a whoosh when you let off. First time I heard it I thought oh crap... that’s not good, and expected low or no power when I touched the skinny, but all was good. Haven’t told my wife about the intake sound yet and can’t wait to see her face when she does.
Ah that’s right the Hypertech. Sorry, read too many threads and can’t keep them all straight in my mind.
I would think you should be pushing a little more psi under WOT. Is this reading from the MAP sensor or a real boost gauge? Do you have the red line hooked up?
Good looking truck sir!
There’s a thread on here describing changing headlights. Seems @SkySkiJason has a good method. Too bad I’d already put in some LEDs before reading his info.... I’ll see if I can find it to share the link.
Ah that’s right the Hypertech. Sorry, read too many threads.
I would think you should be pushing a little more psi under WOT. Is this reading from the MAP sensor or a real boost gauge? Do you have the red line hooked up?
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No need to be sorry. I’m in the same boat.
Boost is connected on the spyder pre intercooler side. It’s a rubber vacuum style hose and I can neither confirm nor deny is good all the way to the gauge so not 100% on that number. Maybe I will trace it and see.
I’m sure it’s “de-gassing” NOPE, de-fuelling since it’s a quick climb then just flattens out like it’s hitting a wall. Should have pulled the trigger on the overboost regulator from RR.
Red line is connected, Wastegate actuator has been tightened 7 full revolutions. Read somewhere that each turn = 1lb. Not sure on the number, but it helped with boost prior to fixing any of the multiple leaks.
You have a nice truck there. Timeless design in my view. Well worth the investment.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Good looking truck sir!
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
BEAUTIFUL truck!!!!
Thanks Guys. Fell in love with it when I saw it at the dealership. Waited 5 weeks for it cause it needed a rear seat??? Tailgate, and bodywork on the box where the PO dropped his 5th off the hitch.
Went from a 89 f250 351 5spd running on propane to this.
You would get an SES light at ~24psi if it was defueling.
I crank the WG adjuster all the way down and delete the red and green hoses. We don’t need a WG - especially with stock injectors.
Looks like my next job is removing the instrument cluster to check the bulbs. When I turn the key to the on position and it lights up like a Christmas Tree no cel or ses.
Looks like my next job is removing the instrument cluster to check the bulbs. When I turn the key to the on position and it lights up like a Christmas Tree no cel or ses.
Thats a problem!
Its called a ‘bulb check’ when those lights come on and go off.
I’m sure it’s “de-gassing” NOPE, de-fuelling since it’s a quick climb then just flattens out like it’s hitting a wall. Should have pulled the trigger on the overboost regulator from RR.
Haha! The de-gassing again. I kinda Like the term.
SSJ is right, you should be lighting up the SES with overboost but if the light is out as you mentioned then that sounds like what’s happening here.
You know, the Hydra with tunes from the PHP library won’t “de-gas” or light the SES..... Maybe go that route and skip the regulator.
Ive never ran a regulator because my tunes have always prevented de-fueling. Someone smarter than me would have to explain why it’s needed if tunes are not allowing de-fueling. My only guess is to prevent damage to the MAP sensor.
