1972 Highboy Build Progress
#723
1850-12 too new for my book. It goes up to 1850-10. I assume the internals are the same though. I don't remember now if your engine has been changed. I am assuming it is still a 360 since you have a 4X4. And since you are in Indiana I am assuming your altitude is pretty much at sea level. That being the case:
1850-10:
#64 jets. Might be a tad bit lean but the accelerator pump nozzles will make up for it.
#9 secondary metering late. Which is the same as #64 jets. Which would be better for some kind of gas mileage :-missing but a bit lean IMHO for a FE. I'd change it to Holley part number 34R9716-22. This plate is stamped "22" and equal to #65 jets.
#6.5 power valve. Here again this would help with gas mileage. But I'd change it to a 8.5 for a stock FE with a 18-20 range intake vacuum signal. Holley part number 125-85. This will kick in the power valve sooner.
#.31 accelerator pump nozzles. Good blend with the #64 jets. If the spark plugs read lean with this set up then jump to #66 jets Holley part number 122-66 and .28 nozzles part number 121-28. This 121-28 comes with two nozzle assemblies and gaskets. Of which you only need one. But that's how they service them.
Now to dial in the secondaries to your particular engine, you want the secondaries to open as fast as the engine can take. Without bogging. I suggest buying the following.
Holley part number 20-13 color coded secondary spring kit. It will include a chart that tells you weakest to strongest spring. So you can swap out the spring, knowing which direction to try, and go for a test beat. Your 1850 prolly has a "plain" colored spring. I think you'll land on the purple one.
Holley part number 20-59 Quick change diaphragm housing lid kit. This kit will make it stupid easy and quick to swap out the springs you're trying. With this you'll be able to try all the springs on the same test beat. Just shut the engine off before swapping springs.
1850-10:
#64 jets. Might be a tad bit lean but the accelerator pump nozzles will make up for it.
#9 secondary metering late. Which is the same as #64 jets. Which would be better for some kind of gas mileage :-missing but a bit lean IMHO for a FE. I'd change it to Holley part number 34R9716-22. This plate is stamped "22" and equal to #65 jets.
#6.5 power valve. Here again this would help with gas mileage. But I'd change it to a 8.5 for a stock FE with a 18-20 range intake vacuum signal. Holley part number 125-85. This will kick in the power valve sooner.
#.31 accelerator pump nozzles. Good blend with the #64 jets. If the spark plugs read lean with this set up then jump to #66 jets Holley part number 122-66 and .28 nozzles part number 121-28. This 121-28 comes with two nozzle assemblies and gaskets. Of which you only need one. But that's how they service them.
Now to dial in the secondaries to your particular engine, you want the secondaries to open as fast as the engine can take. Without bogging. I suggest buying the following.
Holley part number 20-13 color coded secondary spring kit. It will include a chart that tells you weakest to strongest spring. So you can swap out the spring, knowing which direction to try, and go for a test beat. Your 1850 prolly has a "plain" colored spring. I think you'll land on the purple one.
Holley part number 20-59 Quick change diaphragm housing lid kit. This kit will make it stupid easy and quick to swap out the springs you're trying. With this you'll be able to try all the springs on the same test beat. Just shut the engine off before swapping springs.
#724
390
1850-12 too new for my book. It goes up to 1850-10. I assume the internals are the same though. I don't remember now if your engine has been changed. I am assuming it is still a 360 since you have a 4X4. And since you are in Indiana I am assuming your altitude is pretty much at sea level. That being the case:
1850-10:
#64 jets. Might be a tad bit lean but the accelerator pump nozzles will make up for it.
#9 secondary metering late. Which is the same as #64 jets. Which would be better for some kind of gas mileage :-missing but a bit lean IMHO for a FE. I'd change it to Holley part number 34R9716-22. This plate is stamped "22" and equal to #65 jets.
#6.5 power valve. Here again this would help with gas mileage. But I'd change it to a 8.5 for a stock FE with a 18-20 range intake vacuum signal. Holley part number 125-85. This will kick in the power valve sooner.
#.31 accelerator pump nozzles. Good blend with the #64 jets. If the spark plugs read lean with this set up then jump to #66 jets Holley part number 122-66 and .28 nozzles part number 121-28. This 121-28 comes with two nozzle assemblies and gaskets. Of which you only need one. But that's how they service them.
Now to dial in the secondaries to your particular engine, you want the secondaries to open as fast as the engine can take. Without bogging. I suggest buying the following.
Holley part number 20-13 color coded secondary spring kit. It will include a chart that tells you weakest to strongest spring. So you can swap out the spring, knowing which direction to try, and go for a test beat. Your 1850 prolly has a "plain" colored spring. I think you'll land on the purple one.
Holley part number 20-59 Quick change diaphragm housing lid kit. This kit will make it stupid easy and quick to swap out the springs you're trying. With this you'll be able to try all the springs on the same test beat. Just shut the engine off before swapping springs.
1850-10:
#64 jets. Might be a tad bit lean but the accelerator pump nozzles will make up for it.
#9 secondary metering late. Which is the same as #64 jets. Which would be better for some kind of gas mileage :-missing but a bit lean IMHO for a FE. I'd change it to Holley part number 34R9716-22. This plate is stamped "22" and equal to #65 jets.
#6.5 power valve. Here again this would help with gas mileage. But I'd change it to a 8.5 for a stock FE with a 18-20 range intake vacuum signal. Holley part number 125-85. This will kick in the power valve sooner.
#.31 accelerator pump nozzles. Good blend with the #64 jets. If the spark plugs read lean with this set up then jump to #66 jets Holley part number 122-66 and .28 nozzles part number 121-28. This 121-28 comes with two nozzle assemblies and gaskets. Of which you only need one. But that's how they service them.
Now to dial in the secondaries to your particular engine, you want the secondaries to open as fast as the engine can take. Without bogging. I suggest buying the following.
Holley part number 20-13 color coded secondary spring kit. It will include a chart that tells you weakest to strongest spring. So you can swap out the spring, knowing which direction to try, and go for a test beat. Your 1850 prolly has a "plain" colored spring. I think you'll land on the purple one.
Holley part number 20-59 Quick change diaphragm housing lid kit. This kit will make it stupid easy and quick to swap out the springs you're trying. With this you'll be able to try all the springs on the same test beat. Just shut the engine off before swapping springs.
Thanks!
#725
I drove the truck about 70 miles today. I'll pull plugs and check oil tomorrow. Here's what I know tonight... Going apx 55 mph and letting off the gas and then acceleration it blows out smoke pretty bad. Bad enough that cars behind me back off... It does -not- smoke when just driving at steady speed. Doing some research online.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
#726
Krewat had a post in 2006 so I thought that was too old to ask on that thread but here is Krewat's post
"Next time you suspect an intake gasket leak, try this:
1) Lock tranny in 1st
2) Rev it out to 4000RPM or so.
3) Let off the gas QUICKLy
4) Let it rev down to 1500RPM
5) Hit the gas
If you get a big blue PUFF and then it clears up a lot, that's almost 99% sure that it's the intake gasket. The intake ports in the heads were clear, I think it was the gas washing away the oil."
That is spot on for my issue but I'm not sure it is blue smoke. It is a big PUFF of smoke and maybe a little white and blue. I'll have someone look at the color better later. I will also look at plugs and oil later today.
"Next time you suspect an intake gasket leak, try this:
1) Lock tranny in 1st
2) Rev it out to 4000RPM or so.
3) Let off the gas QUICKLy
4) Let it rev down to 1500RPM
5) Hit the gas
If you get a big blue PUFF and then it clears up a lot, that's almost 99% sure that it's the intake gasket. The intake ports in the heads were clear, I think it was the gas washing away the oil."
That is spot on for my issue but I'm not sure it is blue smoke. It is a big PUFF of smoke and maybe a little white and blue. I'll have someone look at the color better later. I will also look at plugs and oil later today.
#728
Good news, there was no coolant in the oil. That is after 90 to 100 miles. Bad news, I lost about a QT of oil during that time. The back of the intake manifold is leaking (I think) so maybe I needed more RTV. For sure oil is dripping pretty good from somewhere. Maybe I lost some oil and burned the other oil. I'm going to have my son take a pic of the smoke. I pulled 5 plugs, 4 on the right bank and all plugs look just like the one I posted.
Compression test?
Compression test?
#729
Compression test is a great idea. If the heads were milled that could cause an issue with the seal between intake and head. That would also explain the oil consumption and leaking. Did you by any chance dry fit the intake to see if there were ant fitment issues? You may have to pull the intake and check it for flatness and verify the ports line up correctly with your heads.
#731
#732
Compression test is a great idea. If the heads were milled that could cause an issue with the seal between intake and head. That would also explain the oil consumption and leaking. Did you by any chance dry fit the intake to see if there were ant fitment issues? You may have to pull the intake and check it for flatness and verify the ports line up correctly with your heads.
#733
#734
Thanks!
#735