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According to the schematic I posted in post #591, the yellow/black wire from the battery cable terminal on the solenoid ends up powering the ignition switch, headlight switch, and 2 fuses. Check that connection at the solenoid. In your pic I see a non- Ford gray wire where the yellow/black one should be. And what is that white wire for?
I'm back at the house. Reviewing notes. Ok, I just walked over to the soleniod and moved the grey wire you were asking about. Then I saw a spark down by the ground to engine and a pop and all power is back on. I will post a pic. Do I have a bad ground cable?
Looks like gray wire off the left side of the solenoid connects to the black/yellow stripe in the harness at the electrical tape. I'd unwrap that tape and see what it looks like.
Do you have a multimeter? If so, set it to ohms and measure resistance from that ground to the negative battery terminal. That should tell you if its a bad ground. You want 0 ohms.
My guess is that the connection under the electrical tape ball is loose.
Do you have a multimeter? If so, set it to ohms and measure resistance from that ground to the negative battery terminal. That should tell you if its a bad ground. You want 0 ohms.
My guess is that the connection under the electrical tape ball is loose.
I home and yes have a multimeter. I'll undo the tape and see what I find. ...and do the negitive test. It's been a long time using the ohms meter but will see if I recall.
Well, 1st let me mention you shouldn't be driving that engine if anti freeze is getting in the oil. With enough anti freeze the oil will loose it's lubricity and you'll wipe out your main, rod, and cam bearings.
I think the problem is all the fresh paint where the ground cable is connected to the block. Remove the ground cable and use a thread chaser to clean the paint out of the threads. And/or clean the paint back off of the face of the block around that hole. Where the cable end will be touching.
Well, 1st let me mention you shouldn't be driving that engine if anti freeze is getting in the oil. With enough anti freeze the oil will loose it's lubricity and you'll wipe out your main, rod, and cam bearings.
I think the problem is all the fresh paint where the ground cable is connected to the block. Remove the ground cable and use a thread chaser to clean the paint out of the threads. And/or clean the paint back off of the face of the block around that hole. Where the cable end will be touching.
I removed the coolant from bottom of oil pan yesterday (about same as b4 pic) Put alumaseal in and that is why driving. Once it cools I will check to see if any coolant in oil. Guy who rebuilt said it was a slow leak and the alumaseal would be fine if it works. ???
On the fresh paint... I did wire brush the spot where the cable bolts on but did not clean the threads. The spark did come from down there.
Soldering is always best. It creates a solid connection and no dirt or grime can get in between the braided wires to restrict current flow. Wire nut would be an improvement over the electrical tape bandage. I would cut those ends off and re-strip the wire.
Look at the wire where I'll solder it... That boot looks factory to me. Should I cut into the boot to see what I find or leave that alone and work with the wire already exposed?
Does that red wire go in the boot? Or is it going behind it?
if it is going in there, I'd say that is a factory wire splice. I see no problem in trimming all 3 wires and soldering them together with a nice clean connection. Just make sure you have enough wire left to connect them all.