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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1972 Highboy Build Progress

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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:05 AM
  #691  
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Had some time to work on the truck. I have the passenger haed ready to bolt down tonight. Will put both heads on tonight and the intake. Is the valley pan ok to leave out? Any tips on things I should check while the engine is this far down? Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:31 AM
  #692  
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I hope this will fix the coolant in the oil issue.


Thought I would remind you guys, this truck was my grandfathers. He is 2nd from the left. This was a huntinhg trip back in 72 or 73. I'll need to look at the back of photo later.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 02:35 PM
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I always use the valley pan in all my FE's. Suppose it is one of those things that might not really care? It is suppose to keep hot oil off the bottom of the intake(cool air runs better then hot).
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 09:58 PM
  #694  
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Both heads back on and torqued.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 09:26 AM
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Looking good so far. When you do the intake gaskets put some sealer (Permatex gasket sealer/high tack) around the water passages.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fe390pc
Looking good so far. When you do the intake gaskets put some sealer (Permatex gasket sealer/high tack) around the water passages.
Yes, I put sealer on the head bolts as well. The issue I'm trying to solve... I have a little coolant that is getting into the oil after the rebuild, it is not mixing wiht the oil but it will gather in the bottom of the oil pan where I can pull the plug and drain a few oz out then it hits clean oil.

I read where the bolts need RTV sealer on them because of the water ports being close to the head bolts. So it has new head gaskets but I used the old bolts. I read on a thread that it's a good idea to use new head bolts in general. Thoughts?

Also, do I put the sealer on the entire bolts for the intake? I did on the head bolts.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 08:11 PM
  #697  
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One step closer.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 08:53 PM
  #698  
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Amm looks like the intake manifold water thermostat by pass hose nipple needs a fixing.


I've seen a brass nipple was threaded in it's place.
Edelbrock should sell them.

I also have seen them for sale on ebay.
Orich
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 09:05 PM
  #699  
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Hey guys. Look at the pics I will post shortly. On the intake, the passenger side is higher than the other 3 sides. The other 3 sides seem fine but that back side by the fire wall on the passenger side is just a fraction higher. Did I do something wrong or is that within tolerance specs?

Thanks for looking at the pics and chime in. - Shawn
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 09:12 PM
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This is the side that is slighly higher.


Diff view same side



This is the drivers side to show where I will trim that little edge off. But there is no edge on the bacck side passenger side.


This is the drivers side as well. To show that edge I will trim tomorroe. So all 3 other sides need just a slight trim and all good.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 09:23 PM
  #701  
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Originally Posted by orich
Amm looks like the intake manifold water thermostat by pass hose nipple needs a fixing.


I've seen a brass nipple was threaded in it's place.
Edelbrock should sell them.

I also have seen them for sale on ebay.
Orich
Rich, good to hear from you! On that nipple - you mean the 90 degree on top of intake right behind where the them goes? I just need to clean it I think. Some of the RTV is on the nipple and I think that is what you are seeing. I think?

Also, please take a look at the other pics and let me know what you think. - Thxs my Ford enthusiast friend!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 11:11 PM
  #702  
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I think that "ORICH" was talking about the shorted nipple that is just to the right of the themostat opening. It's too short! You will not be able to attach the short piece of hose that comes from the back of the water pump. As far as the head height difference, I'm sorry, I don't know for certain. If I had to guess, I would think it would be OK, but lets hear from some of the guys that have actually rebuilt an FE engine! By-Pass Tube: NAPA # 660-1580. This is the thermostat bypass tube that press fits into the front of the intake manifold. The Ford number was C5AZ8555A. Replaced by C5AZ8555B then discontinued. Was universal 5/8" diameter. And "cut to fit".
 
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 07:29 AM
  #703  
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No not the heater hose 90* nipple.
Well looking from my old tired eyes the by pass hose which is the short 3'' long that goes from intake manifold to water pump.
Maybe it's blue paint inside that makes it look rusted tend tip..

Orich
 
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 09:10 AM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by orich
No not the heater hose 90* nipple.
Well looking from my old tired eyes the by pass hose which is the short 3'' long that goes from intake manifold to water pump.
Maybe it's blue paint inside that makes it look rusted tend tip..

Orich
Yes, it's the blue paint but thank you very much for pointing that out. It should be fine, but every other time you have pointed something out it has been spot on. Those eyes have been good helping me! I have said it before but you guys have become a huge part of the story of this truck. I'm very grateful for the people here that have chimed in to help me with finding parts, get thru mechanical questions, pointing me to related threads, encouraging me to keep up the work, and the list goes on.... This thread has become part of the new history of my Grandfathers truck.

My son is in town this week and he has been helping me a well. It has been great to get back on the project. Just hoping I have fixed the coolant in the oil issue. We landed the intake manifold last night about 8pm. It says to wait 24 hours to cure. Our next step, drop the other items on the engine and have it ready to fire late tonight or tomorrow AM.

Appreciate you guys!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 12:02 AM
  #705  
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Rocker rails on...
 
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