1972 Highboy Build Progress
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
Do something about it before you get too much oil in there, and the piston tops start to look like charcoal briquettes
If it was the PVC, and you have the PVC valve plumbed to the back/center bung on the carb, you'd have oil in most if not all the cylinders.
When you pull the intake (and you're going to do it whether it's leaking, or you have bigger problems), check the intake runners in the heads. If it's the intake/head interface leaking, there'll be oil in them.
Is it an aftermarket intake? With stock bolts? Stock bolts are too long for something like the Edelbrock performer, and won't squish the gasket JUST ENOUGH to make it leak.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2014
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This is the classic FE intake manifold leak. When someone asks about using/burning oil, I say, rev it up to around 3500RPM while holding the gear (say, 3rd on a 435NP, or 2nd on an auto), let off (which creates high vacuum), wait for the RPM to drop to around 1500, and then punch it again. If you get the huge POOF of blue smoke, it's the intake leaking at the intake/head interface.
Do something about it before you get too much oil in there, and the piston tops start to look like charcoal briquettes
If it was the PVC, and you have the PVC valve plumbed to the back/center bung on the carb, you'd have oil in most if not all the cylinders.
When you pull the intake (and you're going to do it whether it's leaking, or you have bigger problems), check the intake runners in the heads. If it's the intake/head interface leaking, there'll be oil in them.
Is it an aftermarket intake? With stock bolts? Stock bolts are too long for something like the Edelbrock performer, and won't squish the gasket JUST ENOUGH to make it leak.
Do something about it before you get too much oil in there, and the piston tops start to look like charcoal briquettes
If it was the PVC, and you have the PVC valve plumbed to the back/center bung on the carb, you'd have oil in most if not all the cylinders.
When you pull the intake (and you're going to do it whether it's leaking, or you have bigger problems), check the intake runners in the heads. If it's the intake/head interface leaking, there'll be oil in them.
Is it an aftermarket intake? With stock bolts? Stock bolts are too long for something like the Edelbrock performer, and won't squish the gasket JUST ENOUGH to make it leak.
What do you mean when you say to "check the intake runners in the head"?
So the plug colors on the left bank are ok? Or could the intake leak cause those to be dark?
Appreciate your thoughts! I'm so close...
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
When you remove the intake, the intake ports match up to the ports in the head. The head ports will have oil in them if the intake is leaking.
As for the #1,2,3,4, they don't look TOO bad - but #5 is awful. And #6 is not too far behind it. Hard to say. But again, that high RPM, let off, let it go down to 1500RPM and then when you hit it, you get a blue poof, well, that's almost 100% sure it's an intake leak. Could be something else, but unless the intake valve guide is so warn that the valve is slopping around, you're not sucking that much oil from anywhere else.
You might want to visit the FE forum, post these pics and see what they say.
As for the #1,2,3,4, they don't look TOO bad - but #5 is awful. And #6 is not too far behind it. Hard to say. But again, that high RPM, let off, let it go down to 1500RPM and then when you hit it, you get a blue poof, well, that's almost 100% sure it's an intake leak. Could be something else, but unless the intake valve guide is so warn that the valve is slopping around, you're not sucking that much oil from anywhere else.
You might want to visit the FE forum, post these pics and see what they say.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
2x on the intake sucking oil at the heat riser port. I had the same problems after about 50k an again then again at 1k.
One if the heads have ever been shaved more then 0.20 then the in intake should be milled also to match the engine V design so the gasket seals completely across it's whole surface.
This is also explained in the instruction sheet when you buy a new intake.
I also stated using Edelbrock pin seal intake gaskets P/N 7224., do a good inspection on the old gasket at the heat riser ports an you'll see burnt an oily=Leakage
Plus under Torqued can cause the gasket to leak.
Orich
One if the heads have ever been shaved more then 0.20 then the in intake should be milled also to match the engine V design so the gasket seals completely across it's whole surface.
This is also explained in the instruction sheet when you buy a new intake.
I also stated using Edelbrock pin seal intake gaskets P/N 7224., do a good inspection on the old gasket at the heat riser ports an you'll see burnt an oily=Leakage
Plus under Torqued can cause the gasket to leak.
Orich
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Sounds like the correct diagnosis Orich... Having the 300 IL 6, I do not have to deal with balancing the issues with 2 heads and 2 sides of an intake. What you said makes perfect sense for a V 8 motor. What you do to one head, must be done equally to the other.
Good luck with it amigo..
Baja
Good luck with it amigo..
Baja
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2x on the intake sucking oil at the heat riser port. I had the same problems after about 50k an again then again at 1k.
One if the heads have ever been shaved more then 0.20 then the in intake should be milled also to match the engine V design so the gasket seals completely across it's whole surface.
This is also explained in the instruction sheet when you buy a new intake.
I also stated using Edelbrock pin seal intake gaskets P/N 7224., do a good inspection on the old gasket at the heat riser ports an you'll see burnt an oily=Leakage
Plus under Torqued can cause the gasket to leak.
Orich
One if the heads have ever been shaved more then 0.20 then the in intake should be milled also to match the engine V design so the gasket seals completely across it's whole surface.
This is also explained in the instruction sheet when you buy a new intake.
I also stated using Edelbrock pin seal intake gaskets P/N 7224., do a good inspection on the old gasket at the heat riser ports an you'll see burnt an oily=Leakage
Plus under Torqued can cause the gasket to leak.
Orich
Hear it is... pics are from today
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Update from today
When you remove the intake, the intake ports match up to the ports in the head. The head ports will have oil in them if the intake is leaking.
As for the #1,2,3,4, they don't look TOO bad - but #5 is awful. And #6 is not too far behind it. Hard to say. But again, that high RPM, let off, let it go down to 1500RPM and then when you hit it, you get a blue poof, well, that's almost 100% sure it's an intake leak. Could be something else, but unless the intake valve guide is so warn that the valve is slopping around, you're not sucking that much oil from anywhere else.
You might want to visit the FE forum, post these pics and see what they say.
As for the #1,2,3,4, they don't look TOO bad - but #5 is awful. And #6 is not too far behind it. Hard to say. But again, that high RPM, let off, let it go down to 1500RPM and then when you hit it, you get a blue poof, well, that's almost 100% sure it's an intake leak. Could be something else, but unless the intake valve guide is so warn that the valve is slopping around, you're not sucking that much oil from anywhere else.
You might want to visit the FE forum, post these pics and see what they say.
Any tips on putting the new intake on? RPM Edlebrock. Should I use a light amount of heat RTV around all the ports?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
The only place you need to use RTV is around the coolant ports (and only a VERY light coating).
Looking at those pics, and how thick the RTV was on the ports, I gotta say, there was almost no "crush" on the gasket. Recheck bolt lengths, and everything else before you put the intake back on. It really wasn't tightened down whatsoever.
Looking at those pics, and how thick the RTV was on the ports, I gotta say, there was almost no "crush" on the gasket. Recheck bolt lengths, and everything else before you put the intake back on. It really wasn't tightened down whatsoever.
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The only place you need to use RTV is around the coolant ports (and only a VERY light coating).
Looking at those pics, and how thick the RTV was on the ports, I gotta say, there was almost no "crush" on the gasket. Recheck bolt lengths, and everything else before you put the intake back on. It really wasn't tightened down whatsoever.
Looking at those pics, and how thick the RTV was on the ports, I gotta say, there was almost no "crush" on the gasket. Recheck bolt lengths, and everything else before you put the intake back on. It really wasn't tightened down whatsoever.
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Elder User
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Hey guys, on the Intake manifold where it bolts down to the heads do I need thread sealant on those bolts? Each head has 5 bolts where the Intake Manifold bolts down. Just need to know if they need the thread sealant. Thanks
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Stripped threads on the back manifold where it fastens down to the head. I'm doing some research now on how to fix. Has anyone had stripped threads in the head where the intake manifold bolts go?
Looks like a "Time-Sert" is the way to go. Going to make calls in the morning and see where I can find the kit for the head/ manifold bolts. I will need to remove the intake manifold.
Update: 9/5/19 I used the HeliCoil 3/8-16... worked great and now putting rocker rails etc / top end all back together. Will let the Thread Sealant cure for 24 hours and start it tomorrow at 11:00 am CST LOL. I might need to right a book after this. "The short long story of the 72 journey" Big Smile! Getting close guys!
Looks like a "Time-Sert" is the way to go. Going to make calls in the morning and see where I can find the kit for the head/ manifold bolts. I will need to remove the intake manifold.
Update: 9/5/19 I used the HeliCoil 3/8-16... worked great and now putting rocker rails etc / top end all back together. Will let the Thread Sealant cure for 24 hours and start it tomorrow at 11:00 am CST LOL. I might need to right a book after this. "The short long story of the 72 journey" Big Smile! Getting close guys!
Last edited by F2501972; Sep 5, 2019 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Update Info