Yes it will clear up when just driving, it smokes when driving it and I slow down using the RPM of the engine to slow the truck down (no smoke when just rev it up). A lot of smoke when in reverse as well(see above pic). So driving along at a normal speed (no smoke) and I let off of the gas pedal to slow down for a person turning then press on the gas pedal to accelerate that is when the big puff of smoke comes out. There is no smoke once it clears and I'm drving at normal speed. It was somking bad in reverse right before I put it up so I need to take it back out and make sure something didn't happen to change the smoke pattern.

Thanks -

 

Yepper. Sounds like the intake isn't on there correctly. It's got to come back off and reinstalled with new gaskets.
Before you pull the Dizzy, mark wear the rotor is pointing in relation to the Dizzy's housing. Then also mark where the housing is in relation to the intake manifold. This way when you plop it back in you can align the Dizzy back up right where it is now. Pre-timed. You should still double check the timing with a light though.
Once you put the intake back down on the engine, install the Dizzy to help center the intake. Then bolt it down.

 

Yup, sounds like it's sucking oil in between the intake and the head. Check the bolt lengths too. I reused stock bolts on an Edelbrock intake, and even with a washer, they were just slightly too long.

 

I did notice on that side, back corner of the intake manifold, it was riding up just a hair. Like someone said I need to dry fit the intake which I will do this time. **NOW, with that in mind, if the head needs to slide down on that back corner just a hair can I move the head down without taking the header off (which means reusing the head gasket) or do I need to remove the head to look at the pin the head sits on?

Its all factory heads, bolts, and intake. The heads are the orginal 1972 truck heads and the intake is a 1969 GT 4bl intake. My grandfather had the intake install the day it came to the dealership.
Thanks!

 

The heads are located on dowels so they will not move. The key is going to be the dry fit first. Also run a straight edge on both sealing surfaces to check for wrapping of the manifold. Then really inspect the sealing surfaces to see if there was something keeping the manifold from sealing. Good luck!

 

Odd you keep saying if you can move the head just a heir, Like noted theirs circle dowels on both heads at the lower corners!
You see the heads won't even move a c hair once it seated.

Me I've had my problem Felt pros intakes an will only use the gaskets the made the intake.
An if you don't want to let everything seat lose before button it all down get the faster drying RTV with the name of Gray "Right Stuff"

JUST have everything laid out and cleaned ready to go back together. By using this type of RTV you don't have to wait over night just keep working till it's ready to fire up.
......
Is it possible the alignment dowels where missing from who ever had been working on it before would be the only way for the head to move a c-hair.

Check the intake gap to head gap in a couple of places as it may still need to have the intake milled yo correct the seating gap clearance.

You may want to check out the Edelbrock intake gaskets., They recommend not using the cork front & rear gasket so they don't come in the package.

Edelbrock #P/N 7224.

Doing this rework to correct the problem don't leave any stone unturned as you don't want to have to repeat this for at least 100k on the clock.

Over time we learn to spend the exedra few bucks to do it right covering all bases.
Good luck!!
Orich

 

The dowels are all there. I thought it might have a tiny play but good point as the head should be on there with no play. I will leave the head on and focus on the intake. I will order the Right Stuff grey and the Edelbrock gaskets. Dry fit and measure to see if I can find the issue. I might have torqued the intake early when I put it on as a mistake as well.

On The Right Stuff I can only find the 1 minute product. I read where the Right Stuff Grey allows a person up to 5 minutes to set but is the Grey and 1 minute Grey the same product? My concern, if I only have 60 second to land the intake after I put the product on, that seems short. By the time I put it on the water ports and lay a bead on the front and back area where the intake lands... that would be more than 60 seconds. 5 minutes I'm good with. So are there 2 Right Stuff "Grey" products or one? Post a link to where I can buy unless the 1 minute grey is the same. The 1 minute is all over the place to buy.

I also read where some guys only put Right Stuff around the water ports and other guys say use it on the entire gasket between the head and intake. What do you guys think?

On the Edelbrock intake gasket, it does not have the heat port in the intake gasket. Do I cut it out or will it burn the port out?

Thanks!

 

Good tip on the bolt lengths... Thxs

 

Thxs, Dry fit is a great tip. Appreciate it!

 

Another good point. Thanks that will save me some time.

 

I have parts on the way. The guy who rebuilt the engine put different bolts in both back intake holes and they were just a little too long like Krewat had said to check. The right side had some rust debris in the hole as well. So with the parts I need to complete that job on the way I went ahead and pulled the transfer case. I will look for info on that job. Main reason for dropping the transfer case is to replace bushings. I have a small oil drip from the back yoke seal and wondering if i should replace the seal or put oil in once a year. I'll post pics.

 

My dog is wondering what's going on LOL.



The yoke seal in this pic is the one that drips a little. Which plates can I remove to inspect the inside of transfer case? What would you guys do with it off?

 

 

I found a Miller seal puller tool that looks helpful. I'm going to replace that seal for sure so any tips are appreciated.

 

I mostly remove seals with just a little slide hammer.
Make a 1/8" hole screw in the hammer an slam it out..
But clean all dirt off first, the yoke may have spine seals if non put rtv under the large washer.
Before replace seal figure our a way to reinstalling it.
I use a 2"+- size of pvc pipe that fits the seal good then drive it in.

Orich