You definitely need to clean the head and manifold in the water jacket area. And use a high quality RTV in that area when you put it back together. I suggest you get the book "How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines: FE & FT Models" Item #HP708.

 

This is the only bolt that had junk on it. Rest looked fine.

 

# 3 and 4 cylinders top of piston heads looked cleaner than the rest. I wiped off cylinder 7 that's why it looks cleaner.

 

Thxs fe390, I have the RTV and going to order the book.

 

Yes, I do have a 12 month warranty but the guy has proven to me he is incompetent.

 

Did the head bolts feel like they were torqued tight? Could be the R/S head gasket was leaking. Burning coolant in #3 and #4 cylinders. After the engine was shut off the pressure in the cooling system leaking coolant in those cylinders still. Then coolant seeped past the rings in to the oil pan.

 

Torque seemed fine. What you said sounds correct.

I found a shop with good reviews that will magnaflux the heads checking for cracks. take the values out and look the heads over from top to bottom / clean etc for 110.00.

 

Tips for putting the top-end of engine back together.... Update - I'm going to put RTV on the bolts going into heads when I put the top-end back together. There was "no" RTV on the threads when I pulled the heads off. So thinking that could be the issue with coolant in the oil. Also, I'm going to post some pics from late summer that I like. Hope to have it on the road in Dec. It was Nov 11th 2016 when I bought it (bringing it back to the family) so I have been working on it little by little for just over a year. I have a great story to tell you guys about meeting the original sales person who sold the truck to my grandfather. He was a young guy in 1971 working for his dad who owned the dealership. He owns the dealership now. Great guy and remembers my grandfather. They were friends back in the day. Going to drive it over and show him once the engine is fixed. More on that story later... Thanks for the help from this forum... ...and a couple of you guys have been a HUGE help in the story of getting his truck back on the road!

 

On the manifold... The guy who rebuilt the engine removed the pan that attaches to the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that ok? Or should I try to find one and put it back on?

 

 

I am loving it, and the history you have with the truck. Ford did not make many of the F250's with the big hubs, and the 12 bolt knuckles for the 3500lb front end. Are your hub centers the original Ford and plastic? If you ever have issues with them, Montana 4x4 has a duplicate in aluminum, in both red and blue. They do not say Ford on them, but I was unable to find any originals.... fact is, the aluminum ones are much tougher..

Baja

 

Yes Baja, those are the original hubs and the red plastic. One of the red ***** has the "Ford" tore off but the plastic is good. I can remember when he would trun the hubs to Lock and he would use pliers on the one side. When I rebuilt the hubs this past summer I found an area on that hub where he must have hit a rock just right on the chrome hub and it was binding the plastic **** just a hair. I used a dremel tool and fixed it. I think you or Orich had suggested the dremel tool and it worked great. I just took my time and checked the rotation everytime I took off some material. Now they both work as good as new!

One hub was frozen solid but I was able to free it up and clean it and now they both work good as new. Both had to be cleaned and rebuilt. I bought new springs from Roy up at Montana 4x4. I think you may have pointed me to them back when I first started working on the drivetrain. Fantastic Tip!

I have bought all my front and rear axle parts from them / bearings shim kit etc. Cost is a little more but they have quality stuff for sure. Good people and they are glad to help when they can. After I have the engine back together my next step is to drop the transfer case, inspect and put new bushings. Also need new U-joints for the front driveshaft and possibly a new yoke. It's pretty sloppy with more play then it should have. Rear driveshaft probably had new U-joints etc because it's solid.

Appreciate you guys!

 

My old hubs today, with the new centers, and having been re-chromed...

 

I am commenting on an older question you have, but for the cab lights go to harbor freight!! They have those cab lights in a set, with all new wiring for $14 I think. I got two pairs so I can have back up lenses if one should break for what ever reason. I also put Amber Sylvania led bulbs in mine and it looks amazing in my opinion! They are way brighter and have way less draw on the electrical/switche and no heat to discolor the lenses. I added two pictures with the cab lights with the LEDS.

Your truck looks awesome though!!!

 

When I first got my truck 78 I wanted to add the upper cab lights.

But glad, I never did. After, I got a c/o camper as it was very close to hitting one another.
Orich