1972 Highboy Build Progress
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
The back side of your red **** is broken. There are supposed to be a hole in either side of the back of it that holds a pin that goes across.
D2TZ1A029A......****
D2TZ1A021A......PAPER LOCK OUT HOUSING GASKET
D2TZ1A021B......ALUMINUM LOCK OUT HOUSING GASKET.
Dennis Carpenter Ford has the 1A029 ***** and the 1A021 paper gaskets. 1-800-476-9653. DC also has the ***** in their catalog.
These Dealers show as having the D2TZ1A021B aluminum gasket.
HUDIBURG PARTS DEPOT
(MIDWEST CITY, OK)3 shown(800) 800-5963
Harr's Redfield Ford
(Redfield, SD)2 shown(605) 472-1633
Prairie Motors, Inc.
(Stanley, ND)6 shown(701) 628-2855
Sakelaris Ford of California
(California, MO)2 shown(573) 796-2147
Jack Garrett Ford, Inc.
(Spencer, WV)2 shown(304) 927-2490
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Ahhh. THAT's what people used to do. I can't tell you how many of these ***** I sold back in the day. And they always looked like OP's pic above.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
My only recommendation is... make sure you grease the locks very well so they never ever hang up, and if they even SLIGHTLY do hang up, don't force it.
BTW - I used to see Chevies with the same hubs but the **** was blue. Just in case someone was in a jam, I bet they're the same things.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
My brother bought my '74 highboy brand-new (long gone now...) - he had a set of ***** he took out after a few years, and they were cracked where that pin is. So in normal operation, they do crack.
My only recommendation is... make sure you grease the locks very well so they never ever hang up, and if they even SLIGHTLY do hang up, don't force it.
BTW - I used to see Chevies with the same hubs but the **** was blue. Just in case someone was in a jam, I bet they're the same things.
My only recommendation is... make sure you grease the locks very well so they never ever hang up, and if they even SLIGHTLY do hang up, don't force it.
BTW - I used to see Chevies with the same hubs but the **** was blue. Just in case someone was in a jam, I bet they're the same things.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
Oh, by the way, I used to have a set of plates that bolted on in place of the hubs for full-time 4WD versions of the highboy. I actually found a crew-cab F350 with that setup in the junkyard once (think it was a '76, with open-knuckles and discs), and took the front-end to rebuild for my '74. Don't know if it was original, but I was surprised. And took the front springs too 
All long gone into the depths of a flood that passed through my sister's warehouse and destroyed everything I had stockpiled over the years.
I might actually have aluminum and paper gaskets for those hubs somewhere.
All long gone into the depths of a flood that passed through my sister's warehouse and destroyed everything I had stockpiled over the years.
I might actually have aluminum and paper gaskets for those hubs somewhere.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
All torque going to the wheel goes through the allen-head bolts, basically. That constant torquing back and forth would ruin the aluminum and paper gaskets, causing them to leak either grease (open knuckle) or axle fluid (closed knuckle). I had some good luck with Permatex instead of the gaskets. And re-torque the allen-head bolts regularly. But the chrome-plated/pot-metal/whatever hub itself would just degrade over time.
It's one thing to restore to original (which is GREAT!) - and another thing entirely to upgrade to something more keen to being USED the way a 4WD is meant to be used.
ofc, this is all looking back at a front-end that had 200K+ on it when I got done with it, and upgraded to the open-knuckle/disc axle, and then I put another 100K+ on it. And I abused that thing in the woods and snow all the time.
Never mind, I'll stop rambling and let you get back to work
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
I am going to re-torque my hubs when i get back to Baja, now that you have suggested it amigo. I did use the aluminum gaskets, and put loc-tight on the threads of the allen bolts..but since I am north of the border, I will buy a allen socket so I can torque them correctly. Thanks for the tip...
Baja
Baja
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
I cleaned behind the engine while the head and intake off. I have a concern about using Thread Sealer vs. RTV on the bolt threads to seal the water and oil passages. I will post that question soon.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I have never use rtv or a thread sealer on the head bolts with out any problems of water or oil leaks.
on a Fe motor. Only used oil on the threads. None of the Fe head threaded bolt holes go into the water jackets/ports then why would a thread sealer would be needed like,
a early small block chevy need.
Now one thing many guys over look when building a Fe is shaving the intake mating gasket surface to get the correct fitment.
say If the heads ever get milled/shaved over 0.020th's then the intake needs to be shaved some also. This gasket gap can be checked
with a feller gage even.
Orich
on a Fe motor. Only used oil on the threads. None of the Fe head threaded bolt holes go into the water jackets/ports then why would a thread sealer would be needed like,
a early small block chevy need.
Now one thing many guys over look when building a Fe is shaving the intake mating gasket surface to get the correct fitment.
say If the heads ever get milled/shaved over 0.020th's then the intake needs to be shaved some also. This gasket gap can be checked
with a feller gage even.
Orich