Hey guys, where can I find an OEM Ford thermostat housing for the 390 truck?

Thanks!

 

Has anyone had their light switch get so hot it shuts off the headlights? I'll post some pics. Do I need a new plug or does the switch need to come out and be cleaned? Ground issue?

Thanks!

 

Switch only heats up when headlights are on. Running lights are not an issue.

The plug you see was hot enough I could not keep my hand on it for more than a few seconds. It does cool off fast when headlights are off.

 

The part with NAPA on it was not org to truck. The guy who had the truck afte my grandfather and b4 me must have put this on. I think it relates to the lights. Also they guy had 6 aftermarket spot lights he installed. 4 on the brushguard and 2 on the upper cab.

I took the light switch out and it looks fine. I could tell its been out before. But that brown part of the switch is what is getting hot and shutting off th headlights.

 

I tried to copy and paste the url I found which has some good info on my question but it would not work so I did a copy on the header, see below. The best info I could find was on this site, so pop that header in and it should help if someone else is having the same issue.

"Headlight switch overheats and cuts out lights??"

I ordered a new switch from 1A Auto. Will track down the grounds that I can find and read up on the relay switches and how to install / where...

 

Does anyone have a diagram of where the grounds are located so I can check them? And how many relays and where they are located to check? I have a new light switch on the way.

Thanks!

 

You are not alone amigo. I too, just started to have the same problem, with my light switch, on my 1968, F250, 4x4 HD highboy. Granted, my old truck has over 700 K miles, and it is the original light switch (nothing lasts forever but death and taxes)... but on the way home from visiting some friends, all of a sudden the lights went out. I stabbed the dimmer switch, and they came back on.. After a bit, I went back to the brights, and shortly, the lights went out again... Several more tries, produced the same thing?? I have owned this old truck for just a little over 50 years, and this is the first issue with the lights. Perhaps you are on the right trail, looking to the grounds...
I am back North of the border now, but when I return to Baja, I will be trying to fix this issue. Meanwhile, I will follow your lead on this...

Good luck

Baja

 

Right on Baja! You and others here have helped me put my grandfathers truck back on the road. Glad to post the update. Switch I found is coming from 1A-Auto and the reviews were solid on the quality of product. But it could be a ground or relay issue. We know the problem and we go find the solution

 

Bingo amigo, my new one is on the way from the same place... they must be wondering?? I am dying to hear if the new one fixed "OUR" problem... hope so, as that is easier than chasing 'tricklicity' around old wiring.. Keep us on page one.. and good luck with it..

Remember, 3 speeds in this world.

The speed of Right

The speed of Light

And the speed of Life..

If you exceed the first 2, you will not live long enough to live in the 3rd...

Baja

 

Hi guys. Been off the computer for a while.
Heat generated is usually either a bad ground or too much current running through too small of wire creating resistance. Or a switch not designed to handle that much current. Have you upgraded the headlamp bulbs to Modern ones like HID? Brighter bulbs need more current. That would do it.
A new switch is a good idea. But so is the headlamp relay addition. Go here:
Read First:

Technical Info Hyperlink Compilation

( 1 2)
HIO Silver



The second page on that stickie has Hio's most recent list of how tos etc. I think it was post #22.

 

Thanks very much El Rey,
The only difference in my old rig, is that recently I added a 3g alternator. In my case though, I only lost the high beams, so I suspect that perhaps salt air corrosion, may have created a problem with the dimmer switch?? I am North of the border right now, so in the "Land of Plenty", I can easily order one, and actually have it delivered to the house. Not so easily done in Baja... but its getting better...

Again, thanks to you and Hi O. for the information
Baja

 

Not sure about the headlights. The guy who bought the truck from my grandfather put 6 spot lights on the truck. 4 on the brush guard and 2 on the cab. They were not working when I found the truck and I removed the guard and 4 lights.

 

To be, or not to be... PCV on our FE390 engines. A friend who is good at dialing in carbs and Holley Carbs said the PCV valve should be on the engine. He is saying I need to have the PCV valve in to dial in the carb correctly. The PCV originally went from the passenger side valve cover to the air breather I think. Or was it to the carb? Anyway, I'm doing some online research and found much debate on the topic. Some guys say the engine just needs the breather caps, one for each side and my engine has one for each side. (I'll post pics) Other guys say it needs the breather cap PCV value for OE running specs. The grommet, PCV valve, and hose are gone. Where do I find those parts if I in fact need them?

Thanks for the help! -Sh awn

 

This pic is b4 I pulled the engine (2016 or 2017) b4 engine went bad

See the valve covers in 2017 when I pulled the engine. The guy who rebuilt the engine trashed the grommet and PCV valve so they are gone

New air breather and vented caps on each side.

 

Baja, my new switch is in and so far it is working. I only drove it on one test run but the lights did not go off and the switch was not hot (it was a little warm but not hot). When I would grab the old switch I could see the headlights getting brighter or dimmer (just a little). The new switch is solid and I can grab the wires and move those around with no issue or diff on the headlights. So that is good. Now that might not be the only issue I have becuase now I can pull the light switch to the running lights fine but when I pull the headlights on (2nd pull out position on the switch) I can hear the electric fule pump power drop slightly. That was with the truck off. I wired the eletric fuel pump so it is hot when the key goes on. When the truck is running I don't think I would hear that slight power pull. But not sure.

So the new switch is working, I just need to look at what Jeff posted on the grounds and maybe install a relay on each headlight. Let us know if your new light switch is the solution for your truck as well. Between the two of us we might help someone else down the proverbial road.