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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1972 Highboy Build Progress

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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 03:49 PM
  #646  
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And after the solder you should put some Heat Shrink Tubing over it.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 12:06 AM
  #647  
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 12:08 AM
  #648  
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Does anyone know where to buy the cab running lights? I need a full set.

Thxs
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #649  
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LMC Truck?

Superbrightleds.com offers a wide variety. You may be able to find a more modern version that suits your needs.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 10:24 AM
  #650  
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Lots of truck stops have the same or similar lights for reasonable prices...

Baja
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 03:34 PM
  #651  
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Part number is D0TZ15442A. This Dealer shows 6 of them.


Bayer Ford-Mercury, Inc.
200 East Central
Comanche, TX 76442

Contact:Breighton Clemons
Phone(325) 356-2777


Dennis Carpenter Ford shows 28 of them.

800-476-9653
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 08:54 PM
  #652  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Part number is D0TA15442A. This Dealer shows 6 of them.


Bayer Ford-Mercury, Inc.
200 East Central
Comanche, TX 76442

Contact:Breighton Clemons
Phone(325) 356-2777


Dennis Carpenter Ford shows 28 of them.

800-476-9653
Thxs... I will call tomorrow. This week I have some time and working on the truck.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 09:10 PM
  #653  
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I'm going to take the intake manifold off and try to see where the coolant is leaking. If I do Not see evidence of a coolant leak from the intake manifold then I will take heads off and see what I find.

Reminder: Then engine was just rebuilt but the guy must have made a mistake becuase I have a small leak and coolant is leaking into the oil. I have drained a few oz a couple of times.

***) what are the best intake manifold gaskets to buy for our 390 engines?

***) Tips and tricks for the manifold so it does not leak in future would be appreciated.

Thxs guys!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 10:09 PM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by F2501972
Does anyone know where to buy the cab running lights? I need a full set.

Thxs
https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Lig...s/CB-15AK.html Here is another option.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 11:10 AM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by F2501972
I'm going to take the intake manifold off and try to see where the coolant is leaking. If I do Not see evidence of a coolant leak from the intake manifold then I will take heads off and see what I find.

Reminder: Then engine was just rebuilt but the guy must have made a mistake becuase I have a small leak and coolant is leaking into the oil. I have drained a few oz a couple of times.

***) what are the best intake manifold gaskets to buy for our 390 engines?

***) Tips and tricks for the manifold so it does not leak in future would be appreciated.

Thxs guys!
Fel Pro used to have great gaskets. Last few times I used some they cheapened up. Glorified cardboard IMHO. For other applications I have heard Cometic Gasket has good gaskets. I dunno if they have 390 stuff though. www.cometic.com.
On the intake installation, some guys prefer to use a bead of RTV on the front and rear China Walls instead of the pieces that come in the gasket kit. Take a pointed punch and hammer 1st and Dimple the China Walls. This will help the seals or RTV to stay there and not slip out. Also, once you lower the intake on the engine temporarily stab the Dizzy to help center the intake in place. Then bolt the intake down.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 08:36 PM
  #656  
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I'll post pics of what I found tonight. I can not see where the coolant is leaking but would like some people to look at the pics and chime in.

Should I go ahead and pull the heads and put new head gaskets as well?

How do the pics look?

Thxs!
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 08:39 PM
  #657  
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Old Oct 19, 2017 | 10:58 AM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by F2501972




My guess is right there is where your leak was. How did the old intake gasket look? Any signs of coolant seeping under it? When installing the intake put a little RTV around the gasket's water passage to help it seal right there. Just don't go overboard.
I do think you ought to yank the heads. You are right there. And apparently the guy who rebuilt it had his head somewhere else. 1st off you can make sure the heads are torqued back down correctly. And 2nd, you can make sure the head gaskets are mounted correctly. Sometimes one of the two head gaskets gets mounted backwards. Which causes the engine to run hot. I don't remember which one. If no one chimes in with this answer I know Orich knows which one it is.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2017 | 02:44 PM
  #659  
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Thanks...

Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
My guess is right there is where your leak was. How did the old intake gasket look? Any signs of coolant seeping under it? When installing the intake put a little RTV around the gasket's water passage to help it seal right there. Just don't go overboard.
I do think you ought to yank the heads. You are right there. And apparently the guy who rebuilt it had his head somewhere else. 1st off you can make sure the heads are torqued back down correctly. And 2nd, you can make sure the head gaskets are mounted correctly. Sometimes one of the two head gaskets gets mounted backwards. Which causes the engine to run hot. I don't remember which one. If no one chimes in with this answer I know Orich knows which one it is.
The old intake manifold gaskets did not show signs of a leak. I will take heads off tonight. ordered the Edelbrock 7368 set. Will also put those washers on the water pump that you pointed out.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...rd?prefilter=1

Once I have the heads off I'll post some pics. The guy who built it understood that RTV needed to be used on those FE engines but no sign of RTV on any bolts or the water jackets. I paid good money for the engine to be done right and he did not deliver on his word. Disappointing but I will fix it right with a little help from the Holy Spirit and my friends on this forum (big smile).

It's great that I'm making progress. Just a little slower that I hoped.

What do you think about having the heads pressure tested? Is there a way to tell or would it require a machine shop.

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 19, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #660  
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When you spoke of paying good money you reminded me. Did this guy give you any warranty?
With the valvetrain off all the valves are all the way in their seats. If you have the means of pressurizing the cylinders with compressed shop air you can see if the valves and seats are tight.


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  • Now that you have the PROFORM Valve Spring Tester you'll need a set of PROFORM Air Hold Adapters to remove your springs with the heads on the engine.
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