I could probably fine one in Baja Mexico, but getting it North might be a bit involved. No problem with customs or anything like that, but UPS might be able to help. If you find that UPS can ship from the Cabo san Lucas area, let me know and I'm pretty sure that I can find one here. Plenty of old parts trucks sitting in ranch yards, going to ground slowly..

Baja

 

Baja, UPS ships from Cabo but shipping cost is an issue. UPS online gave me a quote of 95.00 USD but when I called UPS, they gave me a quote of 477.00 USD (LOL). I will not need the radiator support till end of summer so I have plenty of time to find one. I appreciate the offer but not sure how we can make it work.

Thanks

 

On the core (radiator) support... I found one at rec yard but it's a 2wd f250 w/ SC. I will call on tomorrow. Is there a difference between the 4x4 core support and the 2wd core support?

 

Need help understanding the 1972 F250 rad support 4x4. I called Green Sales and spoke with Dave. He said the 4x4 is a bigger radiator but I forgot to ask him if the Super Cooling in a 69 F250 2WD truck is the same. I would think it's the same but not sure. The Core support / Radiator support is the last big item I need before taking it down to frame and rebuild. Have mechanical items good after 2 years thanks to people here and others who have helped. But this radiator support has been a challenging task to the vision LOL. Please chime in, I coud use the help.

Appreciated! Shawn

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-fitment.html
The above link NumberDummy posted a Ford Truck Parts section 160 shows that the F100 F250 F350 4x4 and the F100 F250 2WD Super Cooling has the same part number if I'm reading correctly. Its C7TZ-16138-B If that is the same part number it should open up my search just a bit.

 

Hey Orich! Take a look at what I posted today on the core support and let me know what you think. And that's a good tip about putting 1500 miles on the engine. I have it loaded with plywood right now for a house project. I put Blue Thunder to work already lol. Hard starting in the winter but once warmed up all good to rock the pavement, gravel, or dirt roads (big smile).

 

Hola amigo F250.

When rebuilding my truck, I was having some cooling issues after the rebuild, with the standard '68 F250 4x4 radiator. Nothing big, but it ran warmer than normal. I replaced the water pump, and it helped some. Then, I went on ?Evilbay, and found a 4 core, all aluminum radiator from a place in Michigan, or Minnesota.. anyway, one of the M states in the north mid wast. Now, the truck runs at the first mark, on the left side of the gauge, under N in Normal. It was made by them, for my truck, and had the outlet on the Rt side for a 200 Six. Its been 5 years now, and no issues at all. Check 'em out.. but be sure to keep your thermostat in, or it will overheat due to rapid flow with no slow down to cool.. The water needs time in the cooling area of the radiator, and the thermostat provides that when it is at the temp set on the thermostat... As to the support, its metal, and all metal is adjustable..

Baja

 

You can also install a Dentside core support. Just have to drill something like 7 extra holes in it to bolt up. Someone on here did a thread on this real recently showing exactly how to do it.
EDIT. Found it.
dent rad support swap- easy
emeraldcoupe

 

I also went with a 74 Dent rad core support. Found the correct fitting one with the long side rails wide rad opening, the hardest part was cutting the square 1" hole for the latch J nut, no big deal.

Drilled four 1/8" hole then used a Dremel cut off wheel for a nice clean cut.

Orich

 

The pic is a 72 F250 2 wheel drive truck. Is the only difference the fins? On the 4x4 support, is the core support the same except the fins? I'm going to drive 6 hours each way to pick this up if I can just weld the fins from my truck onto the donor core support.

Chime in. It's next week that I'll make the drive.

Thanks!

 

This is a 1972 F250 2WD truck. Not 4x4. The core support does not have the fins like my truck has but should it work? Someone said I can cur my fins off and weld them on and have the exact radiator support. Can anyone confirm? The truck is a 6 hour drive away so appreciate the advise.

 

I did the dentside support, it was pretty easy.

 

Thanks. Orich and others seem to have some luck as well. This site has been a huge help. I have been working on the truck for over 2 years now as time and money allows and the people here have made a hard task manageable. I'm so close. Looking forward to posting some updated pics.

 

I am knowing for my saying "The speed of Right, not the speed of Light"... and if you adhere to that, you will be pleased with your results...

Baja

 

Edelbrock Part # 2105 Performer 390 intake manifold is designed for street 332-352-360-390-406-410-427-428 c.i.d. Ford V8's with medium- or low-rise cylinder heads. Edelbrock's Patented Dual-plane, low-rise design with a 180-degree firing order greatly improves torque over a wide rpm range for excellent throttle response from off-idle through 5500rpm. The Performer intake manifolds are ideal for passenger cars, trucks, 4x4s, tow vehicles and RVs. Manifold not equipped with EGR; will not accept stock Motorcraft spread-bore carburetor or fit heavy-duty 361 c.i.d. and 391 c.i.d. Ford truck V8's.

Hello All! So I'm still having a oil smoke issue which I think is an intake leak based on research. So maybe a new intake will do the trick. What do you guys think about the intake above? Any tips on the process?

Thanks

 

The guys from this group have helped me from start to almost finished on my grandfather 72 truck. It would not have been possible without your help on this forum but I need just a little more help. Has anyone replaced valve guides on the FE390? Or has anyone had the issue I'm having on a fresh build? The engine has 300 to 400 miles but I'm using about a quart of oil every 100 miles and seems to be getting worse with the smoke. Engine does Not smoke on start up only after I drive it. It will Not smoke if I start it up and let it idle for even a long time. Only smokes under a load after warm. When I'm at 3k rpm in gear and let off the gas but still in gear then push on the gas it will smoke bad (after warming up). Also, I did a compression test and 140 to 160 was the range. But plugs (left bank) 5 and 6 were pretty dark and 7 and 8 were a little dark. I will post pics of plugs so you can see. So could it be a bad intake manifold? Bad head? Valve guides? Intake manifold gasket? It has true dual exhaust and is smoking from both sides. All the plugs on the right bank are very clean. So I do not think it's a bad head becuase of both sides smoking. Somehow oil is being used and smoke is an issue. Power is good, engines sounds good, has a new 4160 600 CFM carb (which I put on and have not adjusted) I will post pics. Any help is very appreciated. I'm trying to fix in the next week so I can drive in a parade.