1972 Highboy Build Progress
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Elder User
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Broke down... need some help. I drove the truck about 15 minutes to town. Ran fine. Went to my meeting and came out. Truck started great and then loss of all power - everything. No lights, complete electrical power gone.
I have my light tester and some tools with me.
Does anyonw have their ears on right now? Thxs
I have my light tester and some tools with me.
Does anyonw have their ears on right now? Thxs
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Is there a relay that supplies the power to the accessories? The ignition switch would have low current through it probably connected to a relay to supply power to internal accessories. I am not super familiar with this era of Ford though.
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I checked the battery terminals and they are old but seem ok. How do I check the fuse box? THXS!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Here is the wiring diagram I found:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi..._F100-F350.jpg
From there, I would follow the positive battery wire until you reach what I would guess is the power distribution box. It is almost completely at the left of the diagram I linked. It shows fuse links there... If you disconnect the fuse you can run resistance check of the fuse. Short circuit or no resistance means the fuse is good.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi..._F100-F350.jpg
From there, I would follow the positive battery wire until you reach what I would guess is the power distribution box. It is almost completely at the left of the diagram I linked. It shows fuse links there... If you disconnect the fuse you can run resistance check of the fuse. Short circuit or no resistance means the fuse is good.
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Elder User
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There is a solenoid which does have power to it. That comes from the batt and then goes on to the starter.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
One think I can tell you about old terminals is the look fine and you get a good reading off of them. But when they are put under load, the voltage has a significant drop because of the resistance in the metals between the battery posts and the wiring. They are also made of different metals (lead vs copper for example) and when dissimilar metals are used they can create galvanic corrosion. This is why it is a nightmare to remove steel fasteners from an aluminum engine block.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
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Elder User
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Here is the wiring diagram I found:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi..._F100-F350.jpg
From there, I would follow the positive battery wire until you reach what I would guess is the power distribution box. It is almost completely at the left of the diagram I linked. It shows fuse links there... If you disconnect the fuse you can run resistance check of the fuse. Short circuit or no resistance means the fuse is good.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi..._F100-F350.jpg
From there, I would follow the positive battery wire until you reach what I would guess is the power distribution box. It is almost completely at the left of the diagram I linked. It shows fuse links there... If you disconnect the fuse you can run resistance check of the fuse. Short circuit or no resistance means the fuse is good.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Ok. Try the test light on the starter solenoid where 12V batter wire connects. For the ground, use a bare spot on the engine block. This should tell you if the engine has a good ground and there is power to the solenoid.
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Light came on so that is good to go...
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
You can try jumpering the posts on the solenoid with a screwdriver. If the truck starts, then it was the solenoid.
Your battery may have gone because the alternators bad. You drove in using juice but not recharging it. You got jumper cables?
Your battery may have gone because the alternators bad. You drove in using juice but not recharging it. You got jumper cables?