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I've gone to a shop that dealt with hydraulic supply an repairs shop an pick up some hard to find O-rings. Back in to the early 90's before having a computer
Just took the old with me and they matched it up the correct size like we still have to do at the loco box stores most of the time.
May be a farm or tractor supply could some be had.
Orich
OK F250, I will drag out the old hubs today, as came across them while moving stuff a few weeks ago, opened the box to see what was in there, and Viola! Old hubs... so I know now where I put them.. Now, where did I put my camera?? Just joking, but sometimes it goes that way.. Yesterday, I needed my Roberts bits, and they are nowhere to be found..??
Now, do you need just the plastic parts? I am flying North this time and have room for the red plastic parts, but not the entire hubs, for weight reasons mostly. We fly North to DFW (Dallas / Fort Worth) on Jan 25, If you need the rest of the parts, I will have to wait to haul them North on my next driving trip....
Baja.... photos in a few...
I read your post again... sorry ADD kicking in. Yes, it would be great to have the red plastic *****. When I read your post again I saw where you were talking about flying. With that in mind the plastic parts would be great. Down the road I would like to have you send me the chrome hub. But for now would appreciate the *****. That will give me one good spare. I will take a pic of my bad one and post tonight. The pic I posted is the good side.
This is the left side. Look at the 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock position where the chrome hub meets the red plastic... There is some funky damage right there. So when I do take that side apart I might be needing that chrome hub part for this side (with the red plastic ****).
I've gone to a shop that dealt with hydraulic supply an repairs shop an pick up some hard to find O-rings. Back in to the early 90's before having a computer
Just took the old with me and they matched it up the correct size like we still have to do at the loco box stores most of the time.
May be a farm or tractor supply could some be had.
Orich
Originally Posted by orich
I'd take it apart and repair it the best you can. If needed use some JB weld epoxy.
And, I'd use a sanding drum to re-contour the inner circular areas with a dremel an slowly smooth it out.
Then when you get the replacement parts switch them out. This way you've got the inside all cleaned up with new parts.
my .02
Orich
Good thought! That should work well short term for sure. Appreciate the chime in...
Jeff, thank you for the help locating various parts!!! I appreciate your help and others who are helping me put the truck back on the road. I ordered the O-Rings again thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Jeff, thank you for the help locating various parts!!! I appreciate your help and others who are helping me put the truck back on the road. I ordered the O-Rings again thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
You're Welcome. That's my gig and that's what we do here. We may joke or play around and give someone a little ribbing here and there , but we Git-R-Done. All the while having fun.
Join in the fun. You can also be one of the Merry Men.
I have not had any wrench time this week on the truck but was thinking about the instrument cluster. A couple of lights work but no gauges work. So what are my options?
If I fix myself where can I buy the LED light bulbs and paint?
If I send it out to be refurbished... do you guys know anyone really good?
I have not had any wrench time this week on the truck but was thinking about the instrument cluster. A couple of lights work but no gauges work. So what are my options?
If I fix myself where can I buy the LED light bulbs and paint?
If I send it out to be refurbished... do you guys know anyone really good?
The dash cluster frames can be bought at DC an many other places for like $124. the last, I saw them, There's a little voltage control box on the back that's normally the problem with the gauges not working or it's the printed circuit that needs replacing.
Some times the contacts can be cleaned with a pencil eraser can do the trick on the light socket contact areas will get them to light up again.
If the speedometer needle bounces like most truck did sometime it's the cable housing that has sagged.
I went with a whole dash cluster change so I watch the damn needle bounce for to many yrs. So built a custom gauge cluster with a all electric speedometer.
I don't know of anyone who works on the whole units as most loco shops closed up. But most all the parts can be found online from the many company
that make reproduction parts
OK amigo, I have been wrestling with my internet connection, but that is part of the "Charm" of living in a 3rd. world country.. And, in the meantime, I had to do a little fishing..(what else is there?)... Anyway I have 2 extra stock clusters, both of which work just fine. I will try to find a moment to photo them, as well as my old hubs, (already did the plastic photos), and will try to get them all posted for you...
I swapped out a 1968 F600 dash cluster, with the round gauges, and the WWII aircraft look, which I like a lot... so I have 2 extra clusters, and do not need them... one is my old one, and one I bought off Evilbay, for the wood trim look.
I'll mess with the cluster and clean a little to see if helps.
On speedo I have a new cable but have to put some heat shield aound exhaust to protect new speedo cable. When they installed new dual exhaust it burns the old speedo cable.
Where can I find the clips and hardware for the hood lip where the chrome attaches? I have the 2 ends and the center chrome but need the correct clips/hardware. In the DC book it shows the hardware for the sides but I could not find the front. Thxs
Buenos tardes amigos,
Fine day here in Baja for a under-the-house plumbing leak.. Since it is on a slab, I need some plumbing gophers.. Know any?
As to the old hubs, I had forgotten just how long they had been on my truck, and all the things it went through, so they are not show quality or even near it. I will post some photos.. One side is not bad at all, but the other is pretty beat, and the red plastic part was all cracked. It fell apart in my hand when I pulled it out of the hub.. Oh well, here's the photos..
The hub on the left, has a newer and replaced in (1972 I think) red plastic center, as the original cracked during normal hard use, and the one on the rt has never been replaced, but that hub did not work at all when I pulled it off about 14 years ago. All the guts inside are fine, just the plastic 'actuator' is junk. I have to think that some bean counter suggested that they might save some pennies if they switched to plastic, from brass. If I were a decent machinist, I would chuck up a piece of brass stock, and turn my own. Pondering on that for a moment, I just might run that by a neighbor, (retired machinist), who has a small lathe/overhead mill.... If he passes on it, I will take one with me to the Nuke plant in Pa. in Feb. and find a nuclear machinist, who I am sure could do the job just fine. Meanwhile, sorry if I led you down a primrose path, only to end up in a swamp.
There has to be some good parts up North, most of which may be better than mine..
The hub on the left, has a newer and replaced in (1972 I think) red plastic center, as the original cracked during normal hard use, and the one on the rt has never been replaced, but that hub did not work at all when I pulled it off about 14 years ago. All the guts inside are fine, just the plastic 'actuator' is junk. I have to think that some bean counter suggested that they might save some pennies if they switched to plastic, from brass. If I were a decent machinist, I would chuck up a piece of brass stock, and turn my own. Pondering on that for a moment, I just might run that by a neighbor, (retired machinist), who has a small lathe/overhead mill.... If he passes on it, I will take one with me to the Nuke plant in Pa. in Feb. and find a nuclear machinist, who I am sure could do the job just fine. Meanwhile, sorry if I led you down a primrose path, only to end up in a swamp.
There has to be some good parts up North, most of which may be better than mine..
Baja
No problem. It's all good. I will know more on mine when pull the right side off. But think mine will function fine for now. Will keep my eyes open for a stock hub. There is a shop who makes them I was just trying to stay stock where I can.
again thanks for pointing me in the right direction. 
All the while having fun.
