If you just do a simple search using Dana 6CF you'll find out may be all the info you seek. The Answer is yes:

Orich

 

I dropped the ball on that one for sure... I'll blame the brain fart on the parts cleaner because I have been using it as cologne (one would think by how I smell) lol.

Once I did the search found some good info.

I have the right side down to the knuckel. Inner bearing and race bad. Seen worse but it needs a new set. Looks like it was hot at some point. Outer bearing was good and no hot marks.

The closed knuckel needs some fresh oil. Going to use 140w gear oil when I fill er up.

Going to check differential tomorrow as well. Might go all the way and take out right axle to check everything and put a new seal in. So looking for info on the front axle tear down. I'm this far, why not. Time and tools with some skill and help - all things are possible!

Thxs -

 

Yeah parts clearer works well as colon cleaner also.

Best to pull both axles then if you still think do I really want to do this to a drum front axle with very few reproduction parts. But no replacement axle are being made.

Mine were bad, one slightly bent with both having deep groove in them from the inner axle seals warn in to each the seal areas.

So fixed mine all up then a yr later picked up a 76 disc axles reworked it and could not give my old one away so junk it with rebuilt backing plates all new bearing, brakes & cyl.
New tie rod oh well. Only money spent about a 1k on it.
Went into pnp junk box after putting the disc axles in.
Orich

 

qu40189 - Torque King 4x4

QU40189 Dana OEM 12 Bolt Knuckle Ball Seal Kit for Dana Spicer Front Axles is genuine original equipment for heavy duty Dana closed knuckle front axles in 1953-1982 3/4 ton through 1-1/2 ton 4x4s with Dana Spicer Model 44HD, Model 60, or Model 70 front drive axles with the large diameter knuckle ball. Kits include split metal backed ball seal, felt wiper seal, metal backing plates and 12 new serrated, flange head cap screws. Two kits required to service both sides of your front axle assembly. Made in U.S.A.

Just placed order for both sides. Roy said they have all kinds of drivetrain parts.

One step at a time...

http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/comme...acton&key=4936 (correction / the link above takes you to the right place with the options for the seal kits. My kit is the QA4936. You will see the link on the page but for the 12 bolt Dana 44 6FC HD this is the correct direct link.

QA4936 QUAD 4x4 12 Bolt Knuckle Ball Seal Kit for Dana Spicer Front Axles fits heavy duty Dana closed knuckle front axles in 1953-1982 3/4 ton through 1-1/2 ton 4x4s with Dana Spicer Model 44HD, Model 60, or Model 70 front drive axles with the large diameter knuckle ball. Kits include split metal backed ball seal, felt wiper seal, metal backing plates and 12 new serrated, flange head cap screws. Two kits required to service both sides of your front axle assembly. Assembled in U.S.A. of domestic and imported parts

 

That looks like the same kit Ford used to have. For the bigger ball closed knuckles the Ford part number was D4TZ3132B.

 

Roy will help you out and I know that because that's where I got the parts for my 6CF. Only thing to be wary of is the drums which they don't have. I had a tough time sourcing mine but did finally get them.


cstoyer

 

That's the one amigo, or two really... I used the same parts, they were first quality, good people to deal with, and the only tricky part, is getting the shims right, in number I mean, so that you have the correct pressure on the upper & lower bearings. I used a spring gauge, to measure the drag or pull needed, to move the hub on the ball. I also bought their bearing race install tool, and recommend it, as it makes it easier, and a sure thing to get the bearing race seated correctly. 4x4 has them also.. Good luck amigo... sorry, I do not remember the specs on the correct drag, but its not a lot.. Maybe someone else here remembers ??

Baja

 

I got parts from them also for my (8) bolt 3000lb axle.

But no new axles for the 3000lb axle then, but got everything else.

Looking for some parts were like chasing the rainbow.
One ford dealer had two new nos backing plates in there inventory
but could not find them. Parts man said they must be in the basement.

He did not ever find them with in a mouth so had mine welded up in the brake shoe pads an a friend milled them all even. Just like new after that.

Orich

 

I hope someone can chime in on the correct drag, process and details. I'm willing to tackle just about anything but that sounds like something I might avoid. I'm only going after it (at this point) to check the U-joint (inside knuckle) and axle shaft. Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Checking the u-joint is like any of them the needle bearing are sloppy fit in the end cap or missing bearing.
Pull the axle out and try twisting the short axle back & forth while holing the long end steady so it won't move. You can inspect the inner axle end seal area for roughness or deep grooves.


Baja is talking about the ball movement if it has up & down movement then the king pin blocks bearing may need replacing. There is shims under the king pin on top. You just use a inch lbs TQ wrench no big deal once you understand an see them.

I setup mine with out a inch lb TQ wrench just light side to side movement, not to tight that's all.

Orich

 

That's right amigo, Rich has you on track. It is not hard, but you do want to have something like 12 inch lbs... which is not much. The shims are just below the upper king pin, and they help to get the spacing correct, and tight enough, as well as centered on the ball, so the wiper seal does not leak too much. It is a good idea to keep the ***** clean, if you've been to the beach, or in the mud...I hose mine off each time I return from the beach. The thin film of oil, left by the wiper gaskets, (back side of the ball), always collects dust, dirt, and salty sand from the beach. I am sure you are well aware of rust and corrosion near any beach,or mud hole..

You can check the 'play' in the hubs to ball, by trying to move the hub up and down. If there is any play at all, then I would pull the pinion caps, and check the bearings. Top one especially, as it gets the least oiling, and the bottom one, because that is where water will collect, and of course, rust follows. You can do them one at a time. The shims, are various thicknesses, so I usually assemble the hub without the shims, tighten the 4 bolts on top & bottom, then with a feeler gauge, check for spacing between the pinion block, and the hub top.. Add the shims to account for the space, and torque it down to specs. Then check the hub for up & down movement, and feel how tight it is for fore and aft movement... Oh, with the wiper seals installed for the check. If you have all the bolts torqued, then with an inch pound torque wrench, try tightening one of the top pinion block bolts... the hub should move smoothly, in its fore and aft arc, with 12 inch pounds or less. You are not torquing the bolt at this point, only checking how much force it takes to move the hub. It does not want to be too lose, nor too tight, just snug enough, so that it moves freely, but not loose.

Now, all bearings 'wear in' just a bit, so it is a wise move, after driving a bit, like 50 miles or so, jack up the front end, and check for play in the hubs, and wheel bearings. Might not be necessary, but it cannot hurt either. I always check the lug nuts too, after a short drive, just to make double sure that they are all torqued to 100 ft. lbs. at least.. Loosing a wheel has happened to some, even after leaving a tire dealership... As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure..

Merry Christmas amigo, and a Profitable New Year...

Baja

 

Merry Christmas - to all... I agree with Baja!

 

Everything looks good. Oil is very low but no water in it. But I can move the axle left to right and up ans down maybe 1/2 inch. So in this pic... where the short shaft is seen... I can move that, so what is behind the U-Joint looking at this pic? Is the play normal? The U-Joint is in very good shape. So, I'm thinking I might not take the steering knuckle apart becasue it is so good. Remember 42k of the 65k miles are long hunting trips to Canada and Colorado.

 

I had to be a little creative in order to free the differential cover. Glad I did, because the oil had water in it. Maybe 8 to 12 oz. Everything inside looks great. I will clean the gears with and put fresh oil after I do the other side.



So the oil looks nasty but the gears look good. Also the oil level was right at the fill line. I checked before dropping the cover. What is the best way to clean up those gears? I'm thinking break cleaner.

 

Orich and Baja, The U-Joint looks very good and no slop.

The steering knuckle (if I understand what you are saying) has "0" up and down movement. But look at my question about the axle shaft having some play in it after I removed the hub of course. Is that play correct? The knuckle is so good on the right side that I'm going to stop here and start to rebuild the right side unless that play is not normal. It has in and out play of a 1/2 inch as well. So the axle will move toward the differential 1/2 inch and back. The axle will also move left to right and up and down about a 1/2 inch or less.

In trying to help give more info, i did this just now... looking at the axle with the hub off and rest of knuckle still on... I took the axle applying pressure in one spot going up and moved it around the clock to see what I would find. So I found the spot that it had no movement and marked that as 12 and then moved the shaft around the clock to see what I found.

At 12 oclock no movement going up and axle would slide in and out.
1 and 2 oclock with same results but it was starting to have maybe 1/8 and was grabing like there was an edge on the shaft.
Then at 3,4,5 the play increases to 6 oclock being the worse play with maybe 3/8 at the most and a clear lip grabing the axle.
Feels like there is a bad spot on the axle?
Then going to 7,8,9,10 was the same but the play was less and less until 11 oclock where it evens out and had maybe 1/16 play and would slide without hanging up.

I hope that made sense...

What do you guys think?

Thanks again!!