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To clean the ring gear inside there use what you think cuts the heavy oil.
Me like buy spray cans of Quick start fluid better then brake clearer.
The in& out movement slop is ok since that is controlled by the inner bushing of the spindle. My spindles had a brass inner thrush bushing as the outer snap ring holes the axles from moving in & out once assemble.
When, I removed the ring gear out of the housing found that the bearing were all pitted but felt smooth when turning it.
Remove the ball wiper seals clean everything, I use to use gasoline for cleaning everything back in the day it has it's dangers plus not counting all those listed side effects.
You could pull it all down and clean it up an put it all back together then you know what you have.
Orich
I found a youtube link helpful... It's NOT a 67-72 closed knuckle but it is a good example of working on a Closed Knuckle axle. I had some reservations about going into the knuckle but a couple of things helped:
1) finding a manual
2) the guys who have been commenting / encouraging
3) youtube clip
I found starting at 2:50 in the clip, that helped me increase my comfort level for the closed knuckle. Do a search on youtube for closed knuckle and you will find it. Biggest tip I found was to put grease all over the felt seal so it soaks up oil and not water down the road.
Soon I will inspect the right side axle as it will be out and free.
Seal kit is on way.
Will clean up everything.
I need to have drum turned.
Order correct bearings.
Shoes.
Starter fluid / brake fluid to clean gears.
See what else I need so the rebuild is successful...
Last edited by F2501972; Dec 26, 2016 at 03:08 PM.
Reason: Updated text
It's to bad ford/Dana did not have there inner axle seals in the outer part of the axle tube.
But oh no they put in right at the outer side of the ring gear carrier bearings entering the axle tube. This is why the ring gear has to b pulled out.
I made up a seal installer from a piece of 3/4" all thread x 12"? pre cut length that was sold at a loco Home Depot used with nuts an large washers on both ends.
I USE two 3/4" Big sockets as driver placed against the seals, then as you tighten the two nuts out ward it pushes the seal into place.
Not easy getting it all setup an started but cheaper then buying a $75+ buck seal installer.
For a one man installer tool. I'll see if I can show to a picture of one.
Okay here you go, this one you can buy on ebay most of the time.
Orich
Its early, and I am still on my first cup of coffee, so I am typing, and thinking a bit slow.. I think that the axle movement is normal, as the long shaft splines are plugged into the 3rd. member, or differential gears, and supported by a tapered roller bearing. if you go to the Fordification web site, you can see exploded diagrams of your axle.
The axle relies on the hub for support on the knuckle end, and the carrier bearing on the differential end. If you look into the hub, which the wheel bearings fit onto, you will see a silicone bronze bushing, that acts as the axle support on the knuckle end of the axle. With the hub off the knuckle, the axle is free to swing some, and that is normal.
If the knuckle has no play up and down, and I mean Zero movement, then the pinion bearings are good. After you put the hub, on the knuckle, check the swing arc (forward and aft movement) of the knuckle. It should swing smoothly, with minimal resistance, with the steering linkage disconnected. If there is no up and down movement of the knuckle, then you should be fine.
As to cleaning... I found a great degreaser at Costco, in CA. and of course, I bought a case of gallons. Often at stores like Costco, Sams, Price Club, and other warehouse stores, if you see it, and need it, buy it, 'cuz it may not be there the next week.. The stuff is claimed to be organic, biodegradable, and it works very well... Wish I was at home, as I could give you the name, but watch this thread later, as I will go look for it... Clean is the point though..
OK, a simple search on Google provided me the name. Its called "Oil Eater" and I first found it being used on the turbine blades, of the generator, at the Diablo Canyon Nuclear Power Plant. The mechanics had drums of it, and by shear coincidence, Costco had gallons. I checked now, and they had none.. ?? I like it as it has no chemical / petroleum odor or fumes. The directions say that the item being cleaned can be rinsed with water, or a wet rag, after cleaning. It is water soluble and can be used full strength or diluted with water by up to 50%. Sounds like I am selling it, but I have no connection to the company at all, I just like the stuff.
I might need to replace the bearing lol. I'm glad I took the knuckle apart. The lower bearing is ok but going to replace both bearings. The axle is in great shape. The U-joint is great. It's a spicer U-Joint and its tight and right. Where is the best place to buy a kit that comes with all the bearings I need for both sides? I will need to buy a tool to pull the race as well.
Upper and lower bearings were Ford part number C1TZ3123A. Bearing Industry number 23100.
Upper and lower races were Ford part number C1TZ3126A. Bearing industry number 23256.
Buy them locally at a bearing store or Parts Store. I suggest Timken. Like this set I found googling 23100 bearing.
Now you know why, I stayed on you to keep pulling it apart.
You never know what you'll see if you have not cared for it.
Looks like someone has not taken good care of it, looks like someone packed it with grease then never lucked up the hubs to lube that upper bearing enough.
The upper king pin race can easily be drive in by using a large socket flipped upside down lay a flat bar across it an drive it in.
I use an old 1/2inch socket 6" extension , I use for a drive rod that, I place inside a large socket backwards to drive in bearing races only.
Been using it for extension for over 35 yrs just as a drive rod, the head is now mushroomed over from hitting on it for so long now. It's also good for installing freeze plugs to reversed socket to hole it and drive them in.
Orich
Heat also can color metal, but I doubt that the knuckle bearing would have created enough heat, as it only facilitates turning, which is not a high speed evolution, and would not do that. Rich is probably right.
Montana 4x4 has the bearing kits, shim kits, and the bearing seat install tool. The tool is not expensive, and if your shims clean up ok, then you do not need new ones.
A good Boy Scout, is always prepared.. I have heavy days Kotex and hose clamps in mine, for big owhies.. they work like a charm, and you get some great looks at the Dr. office, or emergency waiting room.. Oh, remember the screwdriver, so you can loosen and tighten the hose clamp when needed...
A good Boy Scout, is always prepared.. I have heavy days Kotex and hose clamps in mine, for big owhies.. they work like a charm, and you get some great looks at the Dr. office, or emergency waiting room.. Oh, remember the screwdriver, so you can loosen and tighten the hose clamp when needed...
Baja
Aw yes Russ,
The stand by Kotex for all those big Cuts and much cheaper then he large gauze pads and their sterile is what the Doctor told me to use kotex if, I ran out of the 4x4 in. gauze pads they taped on me after shoulder surgery at the VA.
