Orich and fe390pc,

I will replace all the rubber mounts but what I'm saying is on the cab front mounts where the mount bolts on and where orich is pointing to the broken part... I will need to replace that steel part on the right side for sure.

What is that steel part called where it mounts the cab mount? And it looks to me like that part will need to be installed at a body shop. Yes? The part I'm talking about looks like it is part of the cab. It's the part orich is point to in his pic above that is broken.

 

DC had started selling the stamped out ones same as LMC was selling them for $29.00 bucks .

Don't know if they stopped, the oem style you want were like $89.00 bucks (each.)rust on them was free.

Thought mind were good until, I pushed a screwdriver through them in a few places. Just start poking them all over then you'll know the bad news.

I change mine out while the cab an fender still on.
But best to remove the fender, get a spot weld drill bit an drill all the tack welds out. A hand die grinder with a 2" wheel to cut the front part of the mount where it rest under the fire wall lip.

I used a saws all to cut the cab cushion bolts off an the cushions apart as no saving them either.

Me not having a welder any more I bolted mine back into place with 5/16"x 1" stainless bolts with nylon locking nuts an larger finder washers.

Then painted the whole floor with Por~15 an used a boat heavy patch blanket of fiberglass crosshatch for covering a few small holes an laid it on the floor pan to build up an support the floor pan areas as it was thin. I did a base coat first waited a little while then put the fiber glass blanket on an repeated coating all with poured Por-15.

Orich
Hey cheaper now
http://dennis-carpenter.com/front-ca...C5TZ-10112A70/

 

Seems like I remember there being a couple times guys have mentioned on here something wasn't quite right with the LMS (metal) cab mounts. Hole in the wrong spot or something. I wouldn't buy LMC ones. Especially since Trozei here had a bad experience with their customer service.

 

Thanks, is this the plug?


Fill till gear oil comes out? I took the plug out and cleaned it. Is that the plug you were talking about?

 

Great... so are you thinking these steel cab mounts are as good as oem? They are 84.95 which I'm glad to buy if they are as good as OEM. Once I fix it, I would it to be solid and last.

Thxs -

 

Yes Sir fill till it runs out 90wt. gear oil but mine leaked so mixed 90wt & STP that slowed the leak even with new ball wiper-felt seals.
Orich

 

These are as close to oem as you get. I think these were make to fit both trucks through 67-79 or the welding jig for them was off,

One guy on here drilled out all the welds then refit it to the cab & rewelded it back together for a better fit.

The guy called DC and raised hell with DC about the poor fitment.

DC has all the Ford tooling so stuff should be better.

I've gotten some real crappy workmen ship from them, I returned a few times.
Like windshield seal gasket (1)
hood lip trim to long. (1)
Steering wheel (3)
Orich

 

Rich is right about all, and prolly mis typed a 6 for an 8 on the knuckle bolts. 3000 lb had 8 $ 3500 lb had 12. Since I have a welder, I made the bearing wrenches with pipe and key stock. Not really hard.
Baja

 

Edit guess I need to open mine wider to see what I'm typing.
One of my problems is, I have different vision in each eye then when glancing at the keys an hit the next over from the one, I intended many times over.

The other problem is just **** poor grammar an the cob webs are building up fast.

Okay Mr. bright eyes lol Russ you caught my error bolt error. Glad your you got my back: Thanks

I was day dreaming of my old drinking days of like 6 pack Ya know while typing.
g
Orich

 

orich and all, I know OEM will be more but on that part I would like to fine NOS / OEM. ??? Are there options for OEM steel cab mounts?

 

F250, if you put 80-90 in the front knuckle it will leak out. Especially if your inner seals are worn. A lot of guys mix 80-90 with wheel bearing grease to thicken it up but you can also use corn head grease. Its thicker and wont run out. You can get it from impliment dealers like your John Deere or IH dealer. Pretty good stuff.

 

If to thick it may not get wipe up lubricate the upper king pin bearings very well. This is one of the purposes of locking up the hubs every 1k is to throw gear oil up into those bearings.

That's why, I mixed 90wt & STP it was still liquid enough lubricate well and not run out like straight 90/140wt gear oil.

Plus if you live in a colder parts of the country it may be to stiff to do the job it's intended for end up with a heavy build of grease of blockage around the upper king pin bearings that causes bearing failure.
Orich

 

Yeah amigo Rich, I have your back. So far, my old eyes still see pretty good up close, but things get a bit fuzzy after 3 feet or so... hence the glasses to see far, but not up close. Just the opposite of most people our age..

Years ago, I used a product called "Power Punch" to mix with my 80/90 gear lube. In my local auto parts, they had one of those little hand crank plastic gear thingy's on the counter, and everybody used to spin the handle to see the lube on the gears... sold a lot of STP, and Power Punch, but I never saw anything really technical on either. I just bought it and put it in... it also worked really well on my chain saw chain oiler...

Baja

 

What about running 140? I read where a guy found some info saying to use 140 in the knuckle. Thxs for the input!

 

Mine has 12 bolts. Also found some paperwork saying it has a Dana 6CF front axle.

NP 4-speed / 4.10 Dana 60 rear with 4.09 Dana 6CF front.

Is the Dana 6CF the same as a 44? Who can tell me about the axles?