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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1972 Highboy Build Progress

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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 03:57 PM
  #196  
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bajafishnut
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
I have several of those messy, pumps, and go that route. I am having a hard time finding the 7 lug rims, so will replace the stud next time I have the drum & hub off...

Also, new nuts, are in order, but hard to find American made lug nuts, and the Chinese ones are pure crap. ( Plus Rich, they rattle around in my pants)
My other issue, is that my rims are made for the newer Ford pickups, and have a metric lug pattern, of 8 on 160mm, not 8 on 6.5" They fit, but you cannot use the Aluminum rim style lug nuts & washers, I had to use the older style tapered lug nuts, and torque them to 110 lbs.. that's when one broke.. WTH amigos, I got the rims & tires, almost new, for $600 for the 4.
I have 2 options I can think of: (1) Buy new rims, and haul them 1000 miles South, after paying duty at the border... ugh to that. Or, (2) Have a local machine shop, mill out 1/64th on each lug hole, and use the 32 new American lug nuts I brought down last trip.. From trial and error, it appears that 4 of the lugs will work with the washers as is, so only 4 would have to be relieved 1/64th to the rim outside. ?? So,,, I have some time to ponder a 3rd solution...??

Baja

Oh, and yes, the Warn hubs I have are the O ring style.. As you can see in the photos, I do not spend much time polishing my hubs..
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 10:34 PM
  #197  
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F2501972
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
The ***** were part number D2TZ1A029A. Discontinued 2002 or earlier. None on any of my locators or evilbay. But lookie what www.dennis-carpenter.com has! If I remember right there was a pin that was in the back of these *****. Don't forget them.


My right side is fine. The left is the side he would sometimes use pliers to go from FREE to LOCK. Once I have the right side back together and then the left side apart I will see if I can figure out why that side is hard. In the mean time as a referance the below link has a hub replacement for the factory ****.

TK40256 HEAVY DTY HUB DIAL, RED in Dana Front Hub and Spindle His price 99.00 Those must be special. I'm going to hold out for DC at this point.

Hey guys, for the manual locking hub, would I use normal bearing grease to lube the ****, spring, and action?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 11:41 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by orich
Activator ***** I think ford called those. May be Bill Or Jeff can get a P/n's

It's a 3,500lb. axle external hubs
Also See TK40256Torque King® Heavy-Duty Anodized Aluminum Replacement Hub
Orich
Orich found it, I just put the link in. Thxs!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 02:55 AM
  #199  
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GaryKip
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
Originally Posted by bajafishnut
I have several of those messy, pumps, and go that route. I am having a hard time finding the 7 lug rims, so will replace the stud next time I have the drum & hub off...

Also, new nuts, are in order, but hard to find American made lug nuts, and the Chinese ones are pure crap. ( Plus Rich, they rattle around in my pants)
My other issue, is that my rims are made for the newer Ford pickups, and have a metric lug pattern, of 8 on 160mm, not 8 on 6.5" They fit, but you cannot use the Aluminum rim style lug nuts & washers, I had to use the older style tapered lug nuts, and torque them to 110 lbs.. that's when one broke.. WTH amigos, I got the rims & tires, almost new, for $600 for the 4.
I have 2 options I can think of: (1) Buy new rims, and haul them 1000 miles South, after paying duty at the border... ugh to that. Or, (2) Have a local machine shop, mill out 1/64th on each lug hole, and use the 32 new American lug nuts I brought down last trip.. From trial and error, it appears that 4 of the lugs will work with the washers as is, so only 4 would have to be relieved 1/64th to the rim outside. ?? So,,, I have some time to ponder a 3rd solution...??
Baja
Oh, and yes, the Warn hubs I have are the O ring style.. As you can see in the photos, I do not spend much time polishing my hubs..
Baha, look up Dexter axle. They have a two-piece lug nut that may be what you need. We put them on RV's so owners wouldn't overtighten them.Oh, and your mailbox is full, can't PM you-lol
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 12:53 PM
  #200  
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bajafishnut
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Thanks Gary,

I emptied my mailbox, and will look up the 2 piece lug nuts.. Thanks for both tips... been having issues with my computer's browser, (Firefox), but solved it by using Google Chrome.. for now anyway.
The normal lug nuts for aluminum rims, use a flat washer, and have a shoulder, the old style have a taper, for centering steel rims. Since the rims I now have, are made for the metric lug pattern, the rim will fit on my hub, but p not using the lug nuts for the aluminum rim. Thanks for the tip about the 2 piece nuts.. Salud amgio

Baja
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #201  
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I have contacted DC a couple times about the red actuating ***** and they tell me to keep checking back.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 02:53 PM
  #202  
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Taking the hub apart to clean and put new oil/grease. Still doing some R&D on the hub to see if it's a light amount of grease or something else to lube it for best results. I bet the other side has too much grease which is why it is hard to engage.

 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 03:14 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by bajafishnut
I could not find any of the Ford original hubs or parts when rebuilding mine, so bought direct from Warn Hubs, and ordered the HD replacement. It has the brass center, which won't break like the Ford ones. I still have my Ford ones, and do not intend to ever use them, so if you cannot find the parts in the USA, I will bring the centers North with me in late Jan, and ship them to you if you wish.?? The price is FREE, you just pay the shipping from Texas...

Baja
Baja, thanks for the offer... because I just took the one side apart and understand how it works I will take you up on your offer for your old ones.

PM me or send me a message once you have them and know shipping cost. Glad to pay it and will look for the opportunty to buy you lunch some day.

I need to find a reason to go fishing with you after that great story. Just to be clear, I would like the fishing without the extra green sick option/pkg LOL
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 03:15 PM
  #204  
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I used a silicone grease on the o-ring on the red dial. A good generous amount before I installed the red actuating dial. I used cerulean grease in the hub body and gears.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 07:51 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by F2501972
Interesting. The horn does Not work but I can hear the relay click when testing it and listening carefully. I hotwired the horn and the horn is fine. So you are saying there is a connection between the horn and rag joint. With this new revelation I will inspect the rag joint.
If you can hear the horn relay click then your rag joint is completing the circuit. The problem is either the contacts in the horn relay or from the relay to the horns.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 08:11 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by mrpotatohead
If you can hear the horn relay click then your rag joint is completing the circuit. The problem is either the contacts in the horn relay or from the relay to the horns.
I'd simply first attach a tests light to the horn wire then press the steering wheel horn button and watch for the test light to flash.

If no flash then back track to the relay which has the 3 wires mounted next to the starter solenoid .
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 09:54 AM
  #207  
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bajafishnut
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
OK F250, I will drag out the old hubs today, as came across them while moving stuff a few weeks ago, opened the box to see what was in there, and Viola! Old hubs... so I know now where I put them.. Now, where did I put my camera?? Just joking, but sometimes it goes that way.. Yesterday, I needed my Roberts bits, and they are nowhere to be found..??


Now, do you need just the plastic parts? I am flying North this time and have room for the red plastic parts, but not the entire hubs, for weight reasons mostly. We fly North to DFW (Dallas / Fort Worth) on Jan 25, If you need the rest of the parts, I will have to wait to haul them North on my next driving trip....

Baja.... photos in a few...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 11:03 AM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by bajafishnut
OK F250, I will drag out the old hubs today, as came across them while moving stuff a few weeks ago, opened the box to see what was in there, and Viola! Old hubs... so I know now where I put them.. Now, where did I put my camera?? Just joking, but sometimes it goes that way.. Yesterday, I needed my Roberts bits, and they are nowhere to be found..??


Now, do you need just the plastic parts? I am flying North this time and have room for the red plastic parts, but not the entire hubs, for weight reasons mostly. We fly North to DFW (Dallas / Fort Worth) on Jan 25, If you need the rest of the parts, I will have to wait to haul them North on my next driving trip....

Baja.... photos in a few...
Great. The chrome hub part where the red plastic part is in... It was a little tricky taking the red cap out with the inner snap ring. I had to bite my tough in just the right way to get that out LOL. My chrome piece has some light cracks where the hub was over tighten. It's not enough to hurt function. I would like the chrome hub part as well but the most important part will be the red plastic part with ford on the dial. I will look for a pic to double confirm. And I would be glad to pay you for the parts as well.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 03:16 PM
  #209  
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For the O ring that goes on the red plastic lock Hub ****, does anyone know where I can find 2 of them?

Good news is that I can use mine but I would like to have a fresh O ring on the **** if possible. Roy at Torque king said they would have them at some point but they are not cheap.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 06:13 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by F2501972
For the O ring that goes on the red plastic lock Hub ****, does anyone know where I can find 2 of them?

Good news is that I can use mine but I would like to have a fresh O ring on the **** if possible. Roy at Torque king said they would have them at some point but they are not cheap.
That o-ring was part number D2TZ1A030A. Replaced by D2TZ1A030B.


D2TZ1A030A:
Pleasantville Ford Inc HAS 2
(Pleasantville, NY).

(914) 769-1800
Cole-Whitney Ford, Inc. HAS 1
(Lincoln, ME)
(207) 794-6522


***************************
D2TZ1A030B:


Imperial Country Ford, Inc. HAS 1
(Imperial, NE)
(308) 882-4323
KOEHN MOTORS HAS 1
(WELLINGTON, KS)
(620) 326-5915
Bell-McCall Company HAS 3
(Hamilton, MT)
(406) 363-2011
Van Cleve Ford, Inc.HAS 1
(Morton, WA)
(360) 496-5999
Hebert'sTown & Country Ford Lincoln Mercury HAS 1
(Minden, LA)
(318) 377-8694
Damskov Auto Sales, Inc. HAS 3
(Omak, WA) HAS 3
(509) 826-2000Griffin Ford Mercury, Inc.
(Louisburg, NC)
1(919) 496-4169
Klimesh Motor Sales HAS 1

563-562-3241
 
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