When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guts and Glory... here we go. Ok when I went to change the WC passenger side, I didn't like the way the wheel bearing felt. One spot a little rough and I want it to be smooth. So I'm knee deep in a bearing repack bur stuck in early tear down. I need some help becuase I can not find good instructions for "how to"... I will post somw pics next where I'm stuck.
You guys know the truck - 1972 F250 4x4 Dana axles. My granfather would say "Go get-um son!" So this is me going after it with a little help from my friends.
So what's the problem? If this as far as you got then remove the nut red neck style is using a hammer chisel. None red necks but the four finger socket tool. It's best to go to a auto parts store and get one. Since there's two of these nut on each side.
They need to be TQ to 50lbs to seat the bearing and then back of 1/4 turn then put on the lock pin washer then next the outer nut lock an TQ 50lbs.
Also check the axle U-joint for slop replace as needed.
Take Note if axle has gear oil all over the axle when your remove it the inner axle seals are bad. These inner seals keeps the gear oil from leaking into axle tubes from the ring pinon lube.
To install those inner seals you have to pull the Ring gear carrier out an install the seals from inside the housing with special install tool. Been there done that.
But the trouble is the axles will have a deep groove worn into the axle so gear oil will still leak passed if the seal is seated like the oem one. I left my out about 3/32th so the seal would not ride in the same deep groove in the axles.
I rebuilt mine the best, I could then a yr later came across a 1976 disc whole front axle setup so rebuilt it since theirs no one makes after market replacement axles for the old closed knuckle u-joint axle like what you have.
PS your getting into a can of worms.
Orich
Thanks for the tips on all the above! Will be very helpful. Truck has 65k original miles and most of those are hwy miles from his trips to Canada and Colorado. The last 20 years it was on 3 diff farms and of the last 20 years it sat for several years which was hard on it.
As, I look at your picture of the side shot, I seem to also notice that your front fender looks tweaked?
And what would cause that it the front cab mounts/cushions may be in need of replacing. So check them for damage.
As, I look at your picture of the side shot, I seem to also notice that your front fender looks tweaked?
And what would cause that it the front cab mounts/cushions may be in need of replacing. So check them for damage.
Orich
Yes, whats going on there... 3 of the cab mounts are good but the right side as you noticed is not. The rubber is all there but the steel part, where the rubber sits... that rusted out. I will post a pic. Does anyone make a sleeve for those steel cab mounts? Or maybe I just need to take the cab off and have it fixed at a body shop. ???
As a ref... Here's the left side which is good. The back 2 mounts look just as good. It's the right side front mount that is bad. I wish they were all good but hey I'll figure it out. This kind of repair for the other side, I'm not sure how to approach other than taking the cab off and take to a body shop. ??? Chime in - Thxs
Also check the axle U-joint for slop replace as needed.
Take Note if axle has gear oil all over the axle when your remove it the inner axle seals are bad. These inner seals keeps the gear oil from leaking into axle tubes from the ring pinon lube.
To install those inner seals you have to pull the Ring gear carrier out an install the seals from inside the housing with special install tool. Been there done that.
But the trouble is the axles will have a deep groove worn into the axle so gear oil will still leak passed if the seal is seated like the oem one. I left my out about 3/32th so the seal would not ride in the same deep groove in the axles.
I rebuilt mine the best, I could then a yr later came across a 1976 disc whole front axle setup so rebuilt it since theirs no one makes after market replacement axles for the old closed knuckle u-joint axle like what you have.
PS your getting into a can of worms.
Orich
Orich, thanks again. there is no oil leaking out of the axle but i can grab it and push / pull it in and out maybe an inch. assume it works that way. there is some light oil on the shaft.
I will have the tool today and should have it apart tonight to see more.
Orich, thanks again. there is no oil leaking out of the axle but i can grab it and push / pull it in and out maybe an inch. assume it works that way. there is some light oil on the shaft.
I will have the tool today and should have it apart tonight to see more.
How do I check the U-joint for slop?
Appreciate the help!
The whole inside of the knuckle joint gets lubed by locking the hubs and driving it a few miles. The enclosed knuckles is supposed to have gear lube a pint or so. There's a filler pipe plug on the rear side of the axle spindle ball.
When the ball wiper seal fails the gear oil leaks out faster. not sure which axle you have the 3000lb axle has 6 bolts an the 3500lb axle has 12 bolts
Then once you remove the spindle you'll can pull the axle out, the u-joint has no bearing cap seals. Its' lubes by driving with locked hubs as long as there's oil in the knuckle joints.
You'll need to replace the cab mounts, do not buy the cheap ones as they'll crack like mine did after a few yrs.
You can replace the cab mounts without removing the body. I would go ahead and really check the drives side one to see if it is in fact in good shape or not. When buying replacement cab mount get the ones from Dennis Carpenter as the ones from LMC are junk!