Did you use the video I posted in #1806?

 

Yep, followed it to a tee, not sure what it is

 

Zero compression on 4 cylinders? where those then, the only 4 you tested? Are you sure there is nothing wrong with your compression tester, and the cylinders are on top dead center, of the compression stroke, and not the exhaust stroke? I agree with your assessment that it sounds like valves are open on the cylinders. I'd like to know how much movement each valve has. I'd pull the plugs, and the valve covers, and turn the engine over by hand, to verify everything the gauge is telling you, visually. Let me know if you want me to stop by some time to help.

 

 

is the sport trac the 4.0? or is it the 4.6?

if its the 4.0 they have a specific tool for setting the timing...



you can probably find it cheaper elsewhere but theres the tool set for it...

 

I have not checked in here in some time and missed out on all the good stuff.
I did the rust removal thing with water and laundry soap with pretty good results.
You have to go big or go home I say!

I made it to do hoods & fenders for my other project a 70 AMC Javelin.
I then used the 2x4's and some brackets 2 x 4 Basics I bought on line to make 2 benches that the back tilts to make a table top. I put the 2 together to make a picnic table with benches.
The 4x4 corner parts & lift over rebar I made fire wood holder to stack the wood on the deck.
Dave ----

 

I did get some work done over the holiday. My brother was here from the other cost and we spent a little time in the garage together, it was nice.

First was to replace the radiator in my project 81 F100 flare side because after cleaning it with vinegar it started to leak at the tubes / tank.
Also my truck has AC and the AC trucks came with a fan shroud but guess what? No one makes one for my year with a 300 six.
So with help from others and the web I took a gamble and bought 2 from NPD for $15.50 each. My thinking was for that money I could cut and (plastic) weld the 2 to make one to fit.
When we started to bench test fit the shroud to the new radiator we found it did not sit flush to the fins but did lineup with the fan & mounting bolt holes.


Looking it over we found it we trimmed 1/8" off each side the shroud would drop right into place like it was made for it, sorry no picture of that.

Now being the truck has AC and the parts truck condenser took a hit from the water pump when the PO pulled the motor making it NFG I bought a new one but ......... the only ones you can get that ALL the parts stores say fit does not with out a little work. I can not take credit for this as others on the 80-86 forum did this first.
The condenser is for the newer trucks that use 134a so it is a little bigger, this is why you have to do a little work to get it to fit.
The bottom of the coil needs to be spaced to the front so it clears the radiator support opening at the bottom. It is not good to cut / trim the support because there is a reinforcement you would need to cut into and that not good. To space it forward the center grille & hood latch bracket needs to come forward so not to hit the condenser.
Easy way to do this is to cut 3 short pieces of pipe (5/8" to 3/4"), 2 for the condenser & 1 for the grille bracket to space them out.

I found out a week after the install if you go with a later 90's bracket it is made to clear the condenser and bolts to the support with out the spacer. Oh well once it is all painted nice and bumper is on you will never see it.

Then we moved on to the hood. I had maybe 3 coats of body filler on and was not happy the way it was tuning out. I should back up some. I removed the skin from the frame to fix a dent I could not get to. This caused more work making small dents all over the skin from it being glued and found this when back on the frame.
My brother, who does body work for a living, said you need a wide spreader and a lot of mud! The spreader we found in my stash is used for getting wall spackle flat on walls its about 2.5 feet long.
I think he mixed up half a gal of filler and went to town getting it on the hood and fairly flat. Said let it sit a few days before using the board sander on it.
A few weeks went by and I made dust fly! After almost a full day of sanding it, it was ready for primer. I also pulled 1 of the rear fenders off to finish prepping for primer also.


I would have pulled the other fender and finished prepping for primer but I had to deal with the 2 fuel filler doors & hoses.

When the hood filler was drying for them weeks I finished stripping the tail gate of paint & rust, Hammed & dolly the dents out and then treated the rust with an acid.
Next day I rinsed the acid off prepped the gate & the rear panel on the bed under the tail gate and primed.

I also soaked the tail gate chains / latch assy. in Evap-O-Rust for a day painted them silver and as per my brother, got a bike tire tube and cut it to fit the chains. I used a hole punch to put a hole in the bottom of the tubes to let any water drain out.


A wile back when checking the HVAC system if the doors worked / moved I found the vacuum reservoir, small metal juice can, would not hold vacuum. I pulled it and started checking and found it had pin holes along the bottom? Strange as it should not have water in it and was from the inside out! My fix was to mix up some fiber glass rosin and coat the bottom half of the can. A little black paint and good as new.


Just this last weekend I pulled the right rear fender off and had to do a little body filler work then prep for primer. I still need to prep the 2 filler doors before priming, hope next weekend.
So that brings everyone up to speed on my project so far.
Dave ----

 

Only 4 we could get at easily to check. Back two on pass side are damn near impossible to screw the tester hose into. I thought we had it on tdc on the compression stroke, idk now. Hooked it to the air hose to verify the gauge works on the tester. Dad held his finger over the hose while I spun it over, didnt feel any air blowing. This was using Willie's timing tool set. I think the issue is it's not at the correct point when we are timing it, I'm just not sure how to verify when we get it to the correct point.

 

 

problem with newer engines is you pretty much need special tools to set them up now... not like the old days where you had 2 gears with marks near the teeth to make sure you get them lined up properly... match the lines/dots together and you were set... just had to get the distributor in there right and you were good...

 

spent the day fighting with 3 u-joints.... in the rear driveshaft.... ntm the driveshaft itself fought coming off... spent an hr trying to get it off since it was frozen in place... (so use to just pulling the bolts and the things falling off... ) after getting both halfs out i spent the rest of the afternoon fighting with the u-joints... eventually i just gave up and cut the center pieces out from the old ones... but even that didnt free the caps... my last truck they just came right out with a little pressure but not these...



so i grabbed my torch and put the heat to them... also after cooking them with the torch i sprayed them with wd-40...



used the old spring shackle-frame bushing core.. cut back the old bushing to expose the steel core to get through the hole... and put it in the 20 ton press...



i love this thing.. but the end caps still fought me coming out even in there...

 

 

i have fords IDS... but need to get a new laptop to load it on... (not putting that software on my new gamer... i want it on something dedicated for that program... things a processor/ram hog even when not using it)... my last truck they were easy peasy to change... but this truck every time ive had to change them has been a PITFA... have already done the front driveshaft and the ones on the ends of the front axles... but now im working on the rear driveshaft ones... that double cardan joint in the front shaft was a dream compared to what these ones have been...

 

I'm looking up that ForScan now.
It sounds like just what I've been after and at the right sort of price too.

I'm not cheap, I'm just unable to fund myself at the level I'd like to be...