Official NCFTE Works Thread
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,730
Likes: 20
From: Four Oaks, NC
I did that once with my father's 58 Edsel...
Well I'm sure if anybody was behind me on hwy 42 that day, they would have about **** themselves too!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,045
Likes: 21
From: The Ole' North State.
ah I see but are you leaving an open hole in it? I know on my psd I put a air tank purge valve in the right side bottom. It holds my boost without a leak and when I get the urge I’ll pull it open and take the truck on a couple hard takeoffs and she’ll puke it all out. If you leave the hole open does that not essentially create a boost leak? Seems like that would lead to issues like poor fuel economy and turbo damage. It definitely does in a diesel but I don’t know squat about the eco boost other than they’re strong for what they are and expensive as heck to fix.
Now the f150 is deciding to not start. The gear selector isn’t showing it’s in park or neutral when I go to crank it, but it’ll still show Drive and reverse. I’m betting dollars on donuts that the switch for that is in the transmission. Anyone have a good tool they like to check open recalls? I seem to remember hearing of one for transmission related issues, recently.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 21
From: Taylorsville, NC
Got a MLPS from Rock Auto coming for mine. Have to lift the gear selector just a hair sometimes to start.
It went into limp mode 2 weeks ago. Not locking the converter some times but I think I found that when it doesn't lock if I lift the selector just a little it locks. Haven't had a chance to drive enough to be sure but going to change MLPS anyway because of the start problem.
It went into limp mode 2 weeks ago. Not locking the converter some times but I think I found that when it doesn't lock if I lift the selector just a little it locks. Haven't had a chance to drive enough to be sure but going to change MLPS anyway because of the start problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 0
From: Concord NC
So from what I’ve read, the amount of pressure leaking through a 1 mm hole is going to be pretty insignificant. So I haven’t put a plug in it yet, may or may not. Haven’t decided.
Now the f150 is deciding to not start. The gear selector isn’t showing it’s in park or neutral when I go to crank it, but it’ll still show Drive and reverse. I’m betting dollars on donuts that the switch for that is in the transmission. Anyone have a good tool they like to check open recalls? I seem to remember hearing of one for transmission related issues, recently.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
There is a post in the 80 -86 truck area about a member looking at a Gear Vender OD unit on the back of his C6 and a rear gear change to match the RPM of a factory 2.75 rear that truck has now.
He is looking for better off line starts with the larger tires not OD.
Any way it was bought up the AOD & AODE are based off the FMX auto. Also the C6 is a power hungry hog, it takes a lot to make it work.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 4
From: NC
Got a MLPS from Rock Auto coming for mine. Have to lift the gear selector just a hair sometimes to start.
It went into limp mode 2 weeks ago. Not locking the converter some times but I think I found that when it doesn't lock if I lift the selector just a little it locks. Haven't had a chance to drive enough to be sure but going to change MLPS anyway because of the start problem.
It went into limp mode 2 weeks ago. Not locking the converter some times but I think I found that when it doesn't lock if I lift the selector just a little it locks. Haven't had a chance to drive enough to be sure but going to change MLPS anyway because of the start problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,045
Likes: 21
From: The Ole' North State.
Bob, that looks good. Are you just going to clear coat the steel, or re-spray it blue?
Hey Dusty, you got the heads back right? When are you tackling that engine again?
Well I don't think the hole has helped yet. Still getting a flat spot under about 25% load with a slight grade. A little gas, or less grade, and I don't notice it. Just that sweet spot, which seems to be where I keep my foot at. Keep meaning to do an "Italian tune up" to it, but always forget, I've trained myself for years to drive for mileage, that pounding on the throttle doesn't come naturally. Will have to keep digging.
Also something new, ******* doesn't want to start some days. The gear indicator is blank in Park and Neutral. Have to keep messing with it till I can see the gear indicator, then it'll start right up. From what I understand, the sensor is magnetic, and in the transmission. Starting to wonder how that fluid in there looks. Maybe I should crack it open and take a peek at it, and see what shape the filter is in as well.
Nickle's and dime's...
You can check the adjustment on the sensor, line up the marks and the cable linkage for slack. I had a bwd cause neutral drops on the way to and from uwharrie. New Ford one solved it, bought online, I think it was $45 roughly. I just found my pass seatbelt is getting wet in the retractor in the bottom of the cab, cracked driprail seam sealer is the culprit, next on the list to do.
i was curious, I do know that a cac boot that was cracked because of the oil inside was costing me about 15psi boost on my old 7.3 and it was killing my mileage. I deleted the ccv from the intake and ran it to catch can and atmosphere vent on the 7.3 that I have now, the hardest part was running the line where I could still get a venturie effect to pull the gasses out.
Also something new, ******* doesn't want to start some days. The gear indicator is blank in Park and Neutral. Have to keep messing with it till I can see the gear indicator, then it'll start right up. From what I understand, the sensor is magnetic, and in the transmission. Starting to wonder how that fluid in there looks. Maybe I should crack it open and take a peek at it, and see what shape the filter is in as well.
Nickle's and dime's...
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 80,535
Likes: 97
From: Norlina NC
tried to get the brass plugs out of the exhaust manifolds again.. this time with a drill and a ez out.... still didnt budge.... so instead of messing them them forever i just ordered some new manifolds...
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 80,535
Likes: 97
From: Norlina NC
only thing that scares me to try and drill it further and retap it is not hitting the same threads in that i had already put in the iron and end up obliterating them... so not even going to try... plus id have to remove them to try that again if i did make the attempt... the driverside manifolds rotting away where it mates with the head so figured if im gonna pull it i might as well just replace them... nice thing with the replacements is theyre pre-drilled and tapped for the sensors anyways... and they beefed up the iron where the ports are so its not as thin as it is with the ones i did...
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53,995
Likes: 2,399
From: NY and VA
Feel your pain, Shawn. Had to replace the exhaust manifolds on the 95 460. They were cracked but, also the heat really ate up the mating surface almost like salt does to metal. On my 87 460 had to have the mating surface milled on the heads.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 80,535
Likes: 97
From: Norlina NC
one of the better sections....