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I’ve got a hide-a-ball gooseneck hitch in my 350. Don’t know if it’s something you can use but if you can take it off, it’s yours. I’ll take some pics if you’re interested. The truck had an adjustable fifth wheel in it as well when I bought it but I told the guy I bought the truck from to take it out that I didn’t need it.
Thanks Mako, however, I really want the removable style, so that I can pull the hitch ball, as they make a drop in fifth-wheel hitch that I can get for it. Would make my life so much easier right now if I could just put in a fifth wheel in the truck.
Originally Posted by Cracker289
I've used electrolysis to clean lots of things, including some very rusty old exhaust manifolds. It takes a long time and you have to keep that sacrificial piece clean!
I have 2 soak tanks in my workshop, one with kerosene - that actually does a great job of freeing up rusty parts and also dissolving grease and grime. Supposedly not bad for you to get it on your hands but I do know it stinks for a long time even when I wash my hands 3 times.
The other soak tank has WD40 brand "Rust Soak". I wonder if that is similar to the Evapo-Rust in the video. It smells a lot like "lime away" cleaner, which I also used to use back in the day for rust soak. My problem with the WD40 brand stuff, it works good but at $20 a gallon, doesn't last long. After soaking a few rusty items the whole thing is basically weak now and that was $40 worth of soak. So I'll dump it out and try something else. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg
A 50/50 mix of paint thinner and transmission fluid is mentioned on a lot of threads as being a really good rust remover, but I wouldn't want my hands soaking in either of those things.
After an hr of using the air hammer on that stupid an clutch nut it finally popped loose... just held the trigger for an hr.. and still had to shove something in the pulley holes as it was just turning the pulley even with the belt still on...
old nasty pump off
it was apparently leaking from the little freeze plug hole judging by the trail...
Got the new pump in... which that was a fun event too... right now all i have back on is the pump the fan and clutch.. along with the intake elbow... everything else still needs reconnected... sun started going down and the wind was picking up ntm temp dropping fast... so just cleaned up and came back inside...
the reason for the "fun" of putting the new one in.. went to tighten the waterpump to mounting plate bolts and one of them decided to rip the threads out of the hole.. GRRRR... so had to go buy a new "thread kit" since i didnt have one in that size.. only size i had was the m6x1's which is for the valve cover bolt holes and ones for doing spark plug threads.. (yes that is supposed to be spark plug.. not glow plug)...
incase and of yall 6.0 diesel owners (7.3 probably uses the same one but dunno) ever have to do those bolt holes... heres the size...
At least the pump itself wasn’t very big. The 7.3 pump is a quite a bit bigger. I just did the water pump on mine back in the summer and flushed the system and changed to rotella ELC. I don’t know if it’ll make a difference or not but I use it in my road tractor so I figured it couldn’t hurt.
i been running ELC in mine for 3 years now... shes been happy... been thinking about converting the mustang over as well...
yeah I wanted to convert my old super duty but never did, I did this one and did the coolant filter all at the same time. Say you haven’t had any trouble with it? How often are you planning on replacing it? I know in the big rigs we replenish it with an additive after so many miles but it’s supposed to be good for like 100k miles or so, right?
yeah I wanted to convert my old super duty but never did, I did this one and did the coolant filter all at the same time. Say you haven’t had any trouble with it? How often are you planning on replacing it? I know in the big rigs we replenish it with an additive after so many miles but it’s supposed to be good for like 100k miles or so, right?
this would be the first time in the 3 years since i put the engine back together.... its been drained and refilled with the same stuff a couple times since then because of other issues... but reused the same coolant since it was still "fresh" then...
the mustang was my first experience with the gold... i never really liked it... hybrid organic acid... it builds a film on the inside of the engine... (kinda like when let campbells soup get cold and it gels up).. why i want to convert the stang too... get rid of that... ntm the ELC is silicate free...
Spoke with B&W today. They asked for a picture of the mounting bracket for the gooseneck, and then stated that was not one of their mounting brackets, so it is probably not a B&W hitch. So no idea who makes it.
drawtite, curt and reese also make a kit for underbed hitches... but they all use a round shanked ball... yours was squared which only one ive seen with a squared shanked ball is B&W.. even ford factory underbed goose neck hitches are round shanked (which the only way to install/remove their hitch is to remove the bed since it bolts to the top of the frame down with dowel pins to fit the frame holes to help secure it during install)... downside with the roundshanked ***** though is you cant flip them over to leave in the receptacle... the ***** base is bigger than the shank..
someone may have used the B&W center plate but the outer brackets coulda been someone elses... theyre all pretty much universal for the outer brackets.. but that center plates a dead giveaway for it being B&W...
thing i like about the B&W goose neck turn over ball hitch is the fact they make a 5th wheel pin plate that slides into the same hole... no need to have cross plates permanently mounted to the floor like ive seen with other kits... makes it a pain to slide things into the bed over top of them sometimes... B&W adapater just drops right into the turn over plate hook the chains safety chains to the catch bolts and boom ready for the 5th wheel...
thing i like about the B&W goose neck turn over ball hitch is the fact they make a 5th wheel pin plate that slides into the same hole... no need to have cross plates permanently mounted to the floor like ive seen with other kits... makes it a pain to slide things into the bed over top of them sometimes... B&W adapater just drops right into the turn over plate hook the chains safety chains to the catch bolts and boom ready for the 5th wheel...
Yes, Curt makes a Pin Plate for it, that you can attach a fifth wheel hitch to, however, B&W makes a drop in fifth wheel hitch, called the companion that drops in as well. They are all over craigslist and Facebook market place for half price. So what I think I am going to do is take it on over to Raeford, and get one of the guys to heat it up with a torch and pound it out. I want the hitch plate. The ball I don't care about. They are 40 bucks new. I can replace that if I ever need to. But to be able to just drop in a fiver hitch in the plate. That would be nice.
Got out to the shop today, with all the heaters going got it up to about 60 or so in there. Not bad. Cleaned the contacts for the wiper for the turn signal, and that started working. Yay. Then got to looking at the horn. figured it wasn't making ground. Went through all sorts of ideas, and bounced them off of Dustin via text, before finally figuring it out. These trucks didn't have a true clock spring, but rather circle tracks on the back of the steering wheel for pins to ride in. Two outer ones, one for cruise, one for horn, I would guess. and then an inner one for ground.
For cruise, i'd imaging the power goes in. Then you hit the power button, and it sends power to the set switch. Which then stops or allows, or changes the voltage I'd imagine, to work the cruise system.
Anyway, on the ground pin, there was one, not making good contact, and then there was a hole. So I cut a piece of coat hanger, ground the ends down a bit, and got it in that hole. I think it will work. Unless the new turn signal switch comes in and has both pins already. Then I'll throw that in.
So started buttoning things up, and under the dash has been this huge mess of wires. I keep ignoring it because it's really gonna take a momment to figure out what all is junk and what all isn't... but fighting the panel going back in, i finally got annoyed, and started yanking wires out. Ended up with a nice little pile that is going in the trash.. but now I need to NEATLY wire up a few things so that they will work, such as the RPM gauge, radio, illumination lights, brake lamp switch, and anything I test that doesn't work now.... oops...
didnt know curt had the drop in pin plate too... only seen that with B&W... and agree with you on the ball being cheap... if i had an oxy rig id say bring it over and id heat it for ya and we could beat on it till it came out... but still havent gotten one yet... (in my wish list)...
Ever since I got the sport Trac back together, it didnt run right, we thought we had it timed 180 degrees off, and now it still is. Hooked 100 psi of shop air to each cylinder through a compression tester. Zero hissing or air noise, that leads me to think the valves are not bent. Compression test showed zero on the 4 cylinders we could easily get too. I'm surprised it runs and drives as well as it does. I need to find out what I'm doing wrong in the timing process, and check compression before I reassemble it all again. I can't get anything for it as is, so gonna have to fix it, whether I keep it or not.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
