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Too far away for me to use routinely, I've got an LKQ 'savings' account and they have a parts search allowing you to check against VIN numbers etc to see if the vehicle has the right sort of engine etc. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/loca...change-search/
Each location has it I think, that's just my local bookmarked!
Same here. I don't mind the two hour ride occasionally when it's a high sort after part. But standard, I like it to be as close as possible.
Originally Posted by Ug666
Thanks very much for the offer, I'll hopefully source at my local (greenville) LKQ.
I have budding volunteers to help and it normally only takes 2-3 hours of just me spannering at a junk yard. My 'help' is usually unskilled and only partially interested
If I take my better half she is mechanically capable and at least makes me stop to replen on fluids and energy so I don't get cranky and start swinging sledge-hammers in a final attempt to get it free...
One step closer. Big truck has insurance on it. (way too expensive, but gotta have it). I'm switching insurance companies next month. So tomorrow morning I'll see if I can get a temp tag on it. If so she's going on the road. She's only been property bound for around 6 or 7 years... Besides that one drive I took Dustin on, that still makes him shake his head...
Well, I'm feeling like an idiot. I knew the truck has had a slight miss, and haven't done anything about it. Just pulled codes, and it P-0430, or Bank 2 Cat inefficient. So, most likely cause is the catalytic converter has failed on the left bank. Possible causes of the misfire are plugs, plug boots... and water build up in the Charge Air Cooler. That seems like a big debate on line. I haven't read through all the posts on that topic in the 11-14 threads but, with 150k, always driving conscious of fuel mileage (trying to get it up in the 20 MPG range) and doing a lot of 30+ min drives with cruise on. It certainly sounds like a perfect storm, so to speak. looks like I'm pulling plug boots and drilling a weep hole first thing. Then clear codes and price a catalytic converter. Though while I'm under there I'll do a couple of tests to see if the internals of the cat are coming apart.
Changed trans fluid in the Escape today. Overdue so to get more of the old out had to do it twice.
Would like to shoot the engineer that decided the 6F35 trans didn't need a dipstick.
Changed trans fluid in the Escape today. Overdue so to get more of the old out had to do it twice.
Would like to shoot the engineer that decided the 6F35 trans didn't need a dipstick.
is it one that uses a sensor or one that takes a specific quantity. Also do those have a torque converter drain plug, or just one in the pan?
is it one that uses a sensor or one that takes a specific quantity. Also do those have a torque converter drain plug, or just one in the pan?
Drain, add 4.5 qts. Mercon LV, drive till trans temp at least 185*, leave running, measure ride height, jack up and remove left front wheel, lower jack to measured ride height, remove plug on side of trans and let drain till fluid stops coming out.
At least I only had to adjust level once....
Not to mention removing bottom engine compartment cover to get to the drain plug, and removing top engine cover so I could get my fat hand to the vent/fill plug which is buried under hoses and cables...
I guess three more inches of plastic vent tube would have broken the bank...
Drain, add 4.5 qts. Mercon LV, drive till trans temp at least 185*, leave running, measure ride height, jack up and remove left front wheel, lower jack to measured ride height, remove plug on side of trans and let drain till fluid stops coming out.
At least I only had to adjust level once....
Not to mention removing bottom engine compartment cover to get to the drain plug, and removing top engine cover so I could get my fat hand to the vent/fill plug which is buried under hoses and cables...
I guess three more inches of plastic vent tube would have broken the bank...
That's a pretty specific sequence to have to go through to get it right. I'm glad they didn't use that on too many vehicles.
Dustin and Marty got the door harness in the F150 yesterday, while I ran my mouth, then oil change and resistor tips got put on, as well as a weep hole being drilled in the charge air cooler. Flushed out the radiator on the big truck, since I've only been keeping water in it for the past few years, and it's looking a little rusty. Also figured out why the pressure washer wasn't working. Ended up being a pretty productive day off. Didn't make it to the DMV however or the inspection station. Hopefully will get to go Monday with the one ton. We shall see what the rest of the weekend brings.
That's a pretty specific sequence to have to go through to get it right. I'm glad they didn't use that on too many vehicles.
Dustin and Marty got the door harness in the F150 yesterday, while I ran my mouth, then oil change and resistor tips got put on, as well as a weep hole being drilled in the charge air cooler. Flushed out the radiator on the big truck, since I've only been keeping water in it for the past few years, and it's looking a little rusty. Also figured out why the pressure washer wasn't working. Ended up being a pretty productive day off. Didn't make it to the DMV however or the inspection station. Hopefully will get to go Monday with the one ton. We shall see what the rest of the weekend brings.
not to sound stupid or anything but why are you drilling holes in the CAC on the eco boost ?
not to sound stupid or anything but why are you drilling holes in the CAC on the eco boost ?
Misfires. Take any charge air cooler apart, and you'll find oil and water. On engine's like the Ford Diesels, the charge air cooler is much larger. On the little eco boost it's fairly small, the water builds up, then a bump or a little added pressure and poof, water in the cylinder. I've been getting intermittent misfires for months. That is a likely cause. Plus it's a zero dollar deterrent to problems down the line.
i was hoping to weld one of the bits that came with the gauges to the downpipe of the exhaust... but couldnt get the pipe out of the truck... so going to just drill it.. tap it (despite not having good luck with tapping thin steel like the pipes made of).. once the threaded fittings in im gonna put a nut on the inside of the pipe and hope it never comes off.. the nut i ordered says its a lock nut but dunno...
Putting a thermocouple in downstream of the hot side to monitor turbo temps?
yup... theres also 2 going into the manifolds too.. so ill know the engine temp and the turbo temp... tried to take the pipe out the other day but it kept getting pinned between the body and the block... ntm various other things... dont feel like disassembling 5000000 things just to get it out... everyone was telling me "its easy you just remove this and this and it comes right out"... BS...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
