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Found out the timing isn't the issue on the engine in the sport Trac, we are thinking it's bent valves and possibly the head gaskets. Going to pull the driver's head off first and see what's up before I pulled both. Set timing correctly again, compression test showed under 10 psi on all cylinders. How it runs as well as it does, idk.
Test drive wasnt as happy as i was hoping yesterday... truck had no power behind it.... thought i had either a struck turbo or forgot a rag in the intake plumbing..
Didnt find a forgotten rag in the intake piping. But the IDS found this
For those that dont know. This is the vane ossilation test. The bottom line should mirror the top line.
So that's bad? I didn't think you abused your truck all that much.
Originally Posted by 77mud
Oh and this showed up today 🤷
I also have a Lincoln Electric, though I'm not nearly as good with it as I should be. I blame my eyes.
Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
Found out the timing isn't the issue on the engine in the sport Trac, we are thinking it's bent valves and possibly the head gaskets. Going to pull the driver's head off first and see what's up before I pulled both. Set timing correctly again, compression test showed under 10 psi on all cylinders. How it runs as well as it does, idk.
That makes sense, with all the trouble you have been having with it. Are you pulling the heads with the engine in or out?
So that's bad? I didn't think you abused your truck all that much.
yup.. no turbo no power... plus depending where the vanes get stuck you can end up blowing the headgaskets... but mine seem stuck in the wide open position so its not building the boost when it should....
just gotta pull the turbo and clean the exhaust side of it... soot builds up in the tight tolerances and causes them to stick... i had to clean it once few years ago... looks like i gotta do it again.... its one of the reasons they say to drive the 6.0 like you stole it... if you got one driver that is light on the throttle the vanes might not sweep the full range... next driver that gets in and full throttles it would push the vanes into a region they werent sweeping before causing them to stick... it can also happen from a bunch of short trips or going from a DD to getting parked for long periods of time allowing moisture to build up and rust... then sticks....
i got them to free up for a short bit of time hitting the exhaust side of the housing with a pipe and hammer... but soon as the vanes hit the same spot they refroze...
yup.. no turbo no power... plus depending where the vanes get stuck you can end up blowing the headgaskets... but mine seem stuck in the wide open position so its not building the boost when it should....
just gotta pull the turbo and clean the exhaust side of it... soot builds up in the tight tolerances and causes them to stick... i had to clean it once few years ago... looks like i gotta do it again.... its one of the reasons they say to drive the 6.0 like you stole it... if you got one driver that is light on the throttle the vanes might not sweep the full range... next driver that gets in and full throttles it would push the vanes into a region they werent sweeping before causing them to stick... it can also happen from a bunch of short trips or going from a DD to getting parked for long periods of time allowing moisture to build up and rust... then sticks....
i got them to free up for a short bit of time hitting the exhaust side of the housing with a pipe and hammer... but soon as the vanes hit the same spot they refroze...
I hear of guys replacing the VGT with a standard fixed vane turbo all the time on the big truck engines, can you do this to a 6.0? CAT solved the broader boost range equation by using two sequential turbos instead of a vgt. Usually when one goes it takes them both out then they’re replaced with a big single. Both systems have proven to be a real pain in the butt. It’s a thought, I don’t even know if it’s possible with all the control the ECM has over the VGT.
I hear of guys replacing the VGT with a standard fixed vane turbo all the time on the big truck engines, can you do this to a 6.0? CAT solved the broader boost range equation by using two sequential turbos instead of a vgt. Usually when one goes it takes them both out then they’re replaced with a big single. Both systems have proven to be a real pain in the butt. It’s a thought, I don’t even know if it’s possible with all the control the ECM has over the VGT.
people have done it but it makes them very laggy... or least so ive read....
the 6.4's had the sequential turbo setup... hear more complaints from those guys than the 6.0 guys about turbo failure... mainly because the smaller turbo (which is supposed to build the boost for the low end of the rpm range) is undersized and gets over spun which causes them to fail easily.. its not a big deal to clean up the VGT... just annoying because of where it sits... its about the only item that makes me wish the truck was an inline engine since they sit out in the open on those engines... making it easy to remove for servicing and put back... where the 6.0 one is sitting on top in the back...
if i had the $$$ i would prefer changing it out for the Pmax... but not gonna happen... ill just clean it and put it back in provided the unison ring isnt deformed...
yup.. no turbo no power... plus depending where the vanes get stuck you can end up blowing the headgaskets... but mine seem stuck in the wide open position so its not building the boost when it should....
... it can also happen from a bunch of short trips or going from a DD to getting parked for long periods of time allowing moisture to build up and rust... then sticks....
Verbatim what happened to dad's 450, sat a bunch, Vanes stuck and blew the head gaskets with 15k miles on the truck.
ive already had to do the head gaskets on mine.. but wasnt from them blowing like everyone thinks it does (between and around the cylinders)... where mine failed was between the last coolant port and the back side of the head where its thinnest... so it was just spraying the coolant out and onto the up pipes for the exhaust... when i put it back together i studded the motor so itll handle more boost than my turbo can put out... boost gauge ive seen get as high as 36psi and held it... but on the test drive to town on the way back doing highway she was stuck pushing 21 ish psi... where normally at a cruise shes between 7-10 psi... so i knew something was up... i just hope it didnt do any damage on the way because town is a 20-30 minute drive at highway speeds.. engine even sounded louder... almost like a gasser with a giant hole in its exhaust pipes...
didnt work on any highway capable vehicles... but did work on a diesel... figured id put the float charger on the tractor but discovered the positive cable was corroding ... so cleaned the terminal put some Dielectric grease on the inside of the terminals then coated the outer bits with some NCP-2 to prevent them from corroding again... but last time i used that stuff it didnt seem to make a difference.. lol once i was done i put the float charger on it...
I have an older 135 plus with gas and love the welder.
I did use the flux core that came with the machine but after it was gone went gas and never looked back.
I first use CO2, it was free, and it was better than flux core but when I came down here and started to get deep into the body work side of welding on my project the Argon mix is the best.
I also use the thinnest wire I can for body work, less burn thru, but when dealing with rust you still et a little.
You will also find out how you ever got thru life with out a welder!
Back in the fall my lawn sweeper broke half way thru leaf pick up. Pulled out the welder and found some pipe that fit inside the part that broke and I was back sweeping up leaves.
I have also used it to fix my mail box after drunks hit it 2 times.
Cant help you guys with the diesels that stuff is to new for me LOL
Dave ----
2006. Spent last night and today working on the 4.0, pulled manifolds, intake and the heads. Definitely had valve to piston contact on all 6, but only appears to have 1 bent valve. Gonna have to yank the block or tranny since the rear chain guide is Fubar. Had to get a bolt extractor set since I had a torx bit break and strip a head bolt. Cylinders look good, no ridges, not much carbon buildup. Don't see any cracks or damage to anything else. Those headbolts were on there good.
Got the turbo out today hoping for a quick clean and fix and reinstall...
but the turbo apparently got cooked... what i thought was frozen in the wide open position was frozen with the vanes fully closed... the exhaust side of the compressor shaft (btw what do yall call that side?? i know the other sides the compression wheel/chamber but whats the fancy name for the exhaust side of the housing??) i can tell you last time i had the turbo apart the wheel didnt look like that...
vanes look like someone was hitting them with a oxy torch.. ended up breaking one of the stems too trying to get them off... they were pretty warped and tight...
one of them even has a hole in it...
i see light....
the unison ring was really stuck on there pretty good too... took a chisel and a bigger hammer to get it to pop off... (ntm had to use a hammer to get the housing apart to start with)... trying the actuator pin by hand after i spent 10 mins with the hammer and chisel to the unison ring off it moved pretty freely...
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I have one with the gas set up just for body work.
