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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 01:43 PM
  #1996  
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Originally Posted by GLR
Sounds like a couple of guys who would come over to the house and watch us work... as they relaxed in chairs , drinking my beer...
sounds about right too.... if i was just replacing the exhaust i wouldnt care about getting the old one out in one piece... but was gonna put it back when i was done.... maybe it wont be long for new piping anyways... everything behind that pipe is liver spotted... and the pipe i was trying to remove while its solid its also looking a little worse than the stuff behind it... (more coated in rust than just being liver spotted...

Originally Posted by fuzzy1626
I feel your pain, Shawn....
thanks.... wanna come over and help?? lol.. jk... if it wasnt for the fact ive had trouble tapping metal as thin as the pipe is i would just insert the fitting and leave it as is... but every time ive tapped metal the thickness of what the pipe is the threads always seem to rip out of it... hence why im going to put a lock nut on... might also put a toothed locking washer on just for added grip.. the lock nut isnt one of them nylon ones (which if it was id worry about the nylon melting) dunno what makes it locking without that stuff... but they call it a lock nut so guessing itll do the same thing...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 05:33 PM
  #1997  
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Originally Posted by Benztechnc
Misfires. Take any charge air cooler apart, and you'll find oil and water. On engine's like the Ford Diesels, the charge air cooler is much larger. On the little eco boost it's fairly small, the water builds up, then a bump or a little added pressure and poof, water in the cylinder. I've been getting intermittent misfires for months. That is a likely cause. Plus it's a zero dollar deterrent to problems down the line.
ah I see but are you leaving an open hole in it? I know on my psd I put a air tank purge valve in the right side bottom. It holds my boost without a leak and when I get the urge I’ll pull it open and take the truck on a couple hard takeoffs and she’ll puke it all out. If you leave the hole open does that not essentially create a boost leak? Seems like that would lead to issues like poor fuel economy and turbo damage. It definitely does in a diesel but I don’t know squat about the eco boost other than they’re strong for what they are and expensive as heck to fix.

 
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Old Feb 19, 2019 | 10:30 AM
  #1998  
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Gotta call back the machine shop, he was supposed to start on my heads on thursday/Friday,I asked to know how many valves were bent when he got around to it. New cassettes are in the block, not much else I can do until I get the heads back. Called the machine shop, 2 bad valves, 1 bad lifter. So looks like it needs a hone job and some rings.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2019 | 08:11 AM
  #1999  
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Those German 4.0's are a pain in the proverbial. I'm still having problems with the one in my better-halfs Mustang.
I do recommend a new oil pump whilst you have it out. I never and regretted it.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 06:51 AM
  #2000  
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Trans in my old F-100 went out, it's a cast iron FMX. Beefy tough and heavy, but I think I am going to go with a C6 instead of rebuilding the FMX. My mechanic has one with a bellhousing to fit the 351C. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 07:25 AM
  #2001  
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Originally Posted by Ug666
Those German 4.0's are a pain in the proverbial. I'm still having problems with the one in my better-halfs Mustang.
I do recommend a new oil pump whilst you have it out. I never and regretted it.
I've found several $750 low mile 4.0s in 05+ mustangs, idk what the deal is with yhr the balance shaft in 4wd trucks. And I'm guessing yours lost oil pressure? The 4.0 ohv in our 94 is still healthy as a horse at dang near 400k miles, still doesn't burn oil.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 07:27 AM
  #2002  
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Originally Posted by Cracker289
Trans in my old F-100 went out, it's a cast iron FMX. Beefy tough and heavy, but I think I am going to go with a C6 instead of rebuilding the FMX. My mechanic has one with a bellhousing to fit the 351C. Any thoughts?
What engine is in the f100? Not familiar with the fmx, but the c6 is a decent transmission.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 08:23 AM
  #2003  
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The C-6 convertor (AKA bell) housing is engine specific. Also the better C-6 has ribs along the top of the case.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 08:57 AM
  #2004  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
I've found several $750 low mile 4.0s in 05+ mustangs, idk what the deal is with yhr the balance shaft in 4wd trucks. And I'm guessing yours lost oil pressure? The 4.0 ohv in our 94 is still healthy as a horse at dang near 400k miles, still doesn't burn oil.
The better halfs is a limited edition and a PO decided that it might be worth more at resale if he kept the original oil... I assume that's what his thinking was.
Sludge, and the failure of the timing chain cassettes causing valve/piston to have a little meeting of minds.
Her Mustang Engine had the balance shaft too, original engine on a manual transmission and apparently that is correct.

Every one I've opened up at a junkyard has had the same sludge issue up in the valve covers so perhaps I'm being unkind to the PO.
I know I've never seen an engine so sludged up and I've worked on stuff from the 40s that's been in constant use, heavy hauler trucks from the 60s etc.
It was surprising to see that amount of build-up over only 12 years (at the time).
The sludge in mine was also in the oil pump inlet, just a lack of funds prevented the change.
If I could find a low miler 05 Mustang with clean rocker areas I'd likely get it just for the engine.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 09:15 AM
  #2005  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
What engine is in the f100? Not familiar with the fmx, but the c6 is a decent transmission.
I think he said it was a 351C. Only FMX i've dealt with was behind a 390 (at sale time). Pulled both engine and transmission, and went back with a junkyard 5.0 and I don't remember which transmission. It was a huge beast. Sorry I can't add anything else though. I'll see Butch tomorrow when I pick up the Plymouth from the body shop, it was his truck, so i'll ask him about it. I'll also snap pictures of the Plymouth, and think I want to get him into taking it to car shows around here.

Originally Posted by Ug666
The better halfs is a limited edition and a PO decided that it might be worth more at resale if he kept the original oil... I assume that's what his thinking was.
Sludge, and the failure of the timing chain cassettes causing valve/piston to have a little meeting of minds.
Her Mustang Engine had the balance shaft too, original engine on a manual transmission and apparently that is correct.

Every one I've opened up at a junkyard has had the same sludge issue up in the valve covers so perhaps I'm being unkind to the PO.
I know I've never seen an engine so sludged up and I've worked on stuff from the 40s that's been in constant use, heavy hauler trucks from the 60s etc.
It was surprising to see that amount of build-up over only 12 years (at the time).
The sludge in mine was also in the oil pump inlet, just a lack of funds prevented the change.
If I could find a low miler 05 Mustang with clean rocker areas I'd likely get it just for the engine.
Mercedes v-6 had a bad sludge problem in early 2000's. The DTB on it said to switch them over to Mobil 1 Full synthetic 0w30 I believe. This, if I remember correctly was because that particular brand\weight of oil had extra detergents in it. Though I don't remember if that was the DTB or just the rumor around the shop. Use to scoop the crude out of the valve covers by the handful. Engines shipped stock with conventional oil, can't remember what brand. Just a thought though, might be able to get some oil flowing in that engine with out too much trouble, just definately increase the oil change frequency until it comes out clean.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 09:40 AM
  #2006  
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The FMX has a removable bell housing can be adapted for different engines. C-4, C-6, AOD, AODE and newer are engine specific.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 11:28 AM
  #2007  
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The FMX is pretty heavy duty but has no aftermarket support compared to the C4 and C6. The C6 is also heavy duty and more modern and that was the choice Ford made for trucks and heavy cars with big blocks. But I know from first hand experience you can shift the FMX into R at 30mph and it won't tear up the transmission, just make the rear wheels skid backwards until you realize your mistake and put it back in D. lol
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 11:31 AM
  #2008  
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Originally Posted by Cracker289
The FMX is pretty heavy duty but has no aftermarket support compared to the C4 and C6. The C6 is also heavy duty and more modern and that was the choice Ford made for trucks and heavy cars with big blocks. But I know from first hand experience you can shift the FMX into R at 30mph and it won't tear up the transmission, just make the rear wheels skid backwards until you realize your mistake and put it back in D. lol
That was kind of foolish I did that once with my father's 58 Edsel... when the back up lights came on it sure scared the guy behind me...
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 11:41 AM
  #2009  
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Originally Posted by Ug666
The better halfs is a limited edition and a PO decided that it might be worth more at resale if he kept the original oil... I assume that's what his thinking was.
Sludge, and the failure of the timing chain cassettes causing valve/piston to have a little meeting of minds.
Her Mustang Engine had the balance shaft too, original engine on a manual transmission and apparently that is correct.

Every one I've opened up at a junkyard has had the same sludge issue up in the valve covers so perhaps I'm being unkind to the PO.
I know I've never seen an engine so sludged up and I've worked on stuff from the 40s that's been in constant use, heavy hauler trucks from the 60s etc.
It was surprising to see that amount of build-up over only 12 years (at the time).
The sludge in mine was also in the oil pump inlet, just a lack of funds prevented the change.
If I could find a low miler 05 Mustang with clean rocker areas I'd likely get it just for the engine.
There's no sludge in this one,just light varnish. A tensioner broke and caused valve to piston contact. Oil pump screen was pretty much spotless, I know when we bumped the engine over without the valve cover on it shot engine oil out immediately. If I'd known those had the balance chain too, I'd of gotten one. Idk what it's even for unless it's just internally balanced vs externally balanced. I still wonder if the rings are good. Gonna talk to the machine shop more about the valves when I pick up the head. They all hit, makes it hard for me to see only 2 being bent.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 11:58 AM
  #2010  
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From: Farmville, NC
Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
There's no sludge in this one,just light varnish. A tensioner broke and caused valve to piston contact. Oil pump screen was pretty much spotless, I know when we bumped the engine over without the valve cover on it shot engine oil out immediately. If I'd known those had the balance chain too, I'd of gotten one. Idk what it's even for unless it's just internally balanced vs externally balanced. I still wonder if the rings are good. Gonna talk to the machine shop more about the valves when I pick up the head. They all hit, makes it hard for me to see only 2 being bent.
Happy days then, My go-to tool initially in mine was a plastic garden trowel... Slightly more than a light 'varnish'
I was lucky, only 3 exhaust and 2 inlet on mine. of course they come in sets of 6...
I read about the fully synthetic on the mustang sites and have been using it since the rebuild.
 
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