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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #1111  
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Originally Posted by daddykitty
if that yellow is visible i think you would have every member of the lollipop guild following you around
My truck is tarped up right now, I can't stand back n look at it,,,can anyone with an 05 n up, go out n see if you can see the back of the axle, n the back of the torsion bars????

I'm good with the jabs,,, bet u don't forget bout my engine for a looooong time huh. Can't see any of the copper engine colors neways by just popping the hood,,, I just wanted to get it covered,,,, for all I care,,, it could've been pink. Lol,,, well, not really
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #1112  
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What is the name of the thread in the Super Duty section??

Steve
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #1113  
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Originally Posted by sscarboro
What is the name of the thread in the Super Duty section??

Steve
04 to 06 headlights
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:37 PM
  #1114  
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I can't see the back of the axle and torsion bars on mine. But mine are still black and its dark. The only thing that may happen is you may blind a guy In a corvette or something. Lol.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #1115  
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Originally Posted by Crash16
I can't see the back of the axle and torsion bars on mine. But mine are still black and its dark. The only thing that may happen is you may blind a guy In a corvette or something. Lol.
That's good news.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:10 PM
  #1116  
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From: Spanaway
Anthony,
Some photos just for you


This is the flashlight I used on low beam

That silly thing has a H4 Lamp and a polished reflector.
The only way I could really see the arms was to get on the ground and look
standing up I really did not see any thing.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #1117  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
I went ahead n modded up my stator. The fan clutch wire still hooks in it. It's plenty strong also

Anthony. Here is where I am going to say that I am VERY disappointed in the turn you took with your "build". This is the kind of "mod" that I and other decent techs denounce as HACKERY. That stator is there for a reason, and certainly not there to make our lives difficult for us. If cutting away at the stator like you did, was only to facilitate changing a drive belt if needed, I can tell you how you could've done it without having to worry about it.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #1118  
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M-chan
Can you make us a quick and dirty video on how to change that
silly belt the easy way? PLEASE

Thank You
Sean
P.S. I have done Rangers, Explorers and my 95 F250 gas with no big problems.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #1119  
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From: tonopah, az
x2 on that one please
 
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 11:42 PM
  #1120  
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If the alternator fails within 6 months, you know it's because of the stator mod.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:06 AM
  #1121  
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The belt wasn't my main reason for it. I can see the front of the engine now. I've never had a problem with the belt. I've been changing it at about every 200k n never broke on. I actually have 2 spare belts that are still good. Having that out of the way allows me to see the front and get to anything on the front. I have been n the habit of removing the fan, stator, n radiator anytime I've changed the belt. Im changing coolant anytime the belt gets changed. I can have the radiator, fan n stator out n about 15 min. I want to be able to pop the hood, n inspect as thoroughly as possible, as quickly as possible.

I would love to know the specific reason for its being there. We have to look at the track record of the engineers that designed this engine. TTYbolts, and stc fittings come to mind. I have been reading other forums about the topic,,, no offense Mike, but if I took that mentality, I'd have torqued the heads down doing 90* turns. I will keep a close eye on my temps, and other component life, and will fess up if I notice any adverse effects. After reading the other threads, do you recommend removing the tensioner for belt replacement??? I never thought about that..
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:08 AM
  #1122  
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Originally Posted by chetspencer
If the alternator fails within 6 months, you know it's because of the stator mod.
For sure.... Even tho I have 2 lifetime Oreillys alts. I'm never buying one again!!!!! Ever!!! And I'm never waiting somewhere for them to open to swap it out. They actually have been lasting about 9-10 months anyways(about every 100k). Sure, they are crap, but I'm always watching the volts. And I just sent my working ficm to Ed to upgrade, so I haven't fried the ficm in all these miles. It takes longer to get the tools together than it does to change it out.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:28 AM
  #1123  
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That's bugging me,,,, in no way am I wanting to compare my knowledge to yours... referring to Mike, i take your input very seriously. But the phrase "because I said so" never worked for me. If all else, once again I will prove you right. Remember that you are the one that called the reason for this whole thread. I was mainly worried about the fan wire. That fan pushes so much air, it's hard to believe that under a closed hood with very tight clearances that some air deflectors would make much difference. I will be pulling mountains with loads on and will definitely post any issues or temp differences. Btw, I will be pricing a new stator tomorrow. One of the bottom bolt brackets was messed up and glued together anyways.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 04:44 AM
  #1124  
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From what I understand, one of the stators main jobs is to help the air flow get to various parts of the engine for cooling - ie alternator, sensors, wiring, and even FICM. I doubt that you will see any negative effects for quite awhile, but many people assert that some of the mentioned components WILL fail early without the stator.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #1125  
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Subscribed. Great thread. Cheers
 
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