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Engine removal pics

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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #961  
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Here's some more

The lifters have been soaking for a week


I'm so lifter weary. Man I hope these hold up


The lifter bores


The oil cooler valley works for my assembly oil


Can't really tell, but they are dripping with oil




I found the mounting hole works great to slide em in




What should I do with all my extra parts. Here's both my branch tubes


It slides in the back



Another pic of it in place


Covering the hpop hole could eliminate a potential prob.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #962  
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I am keeping the coolant recirculating kit. But ditching the steel braided lines. I'm putting threaded barbs in the heads and using hose clamps and rubber hose. When I had to fix the leaking line in Edmonton ab,,, it suked
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:14 PM
  #963  
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Dunt du dah


If its a 20 mm engine you've got,,,, it's called a commonized engine. Here's the commonized dowels


OH YEAH!!!!!


Soakin the arp's


Love it


I should've been here a month ago.


Bye bye gaskets


Hand tighten these for now


Pushrods. That's a lot of packaging


Why do these have copper tops???? Shouldn't they be the same on both sides???? I know the 18mm engines use the copper tops,,,, but are they the same??
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #964  
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I put em in,,,,, but they will come back out if the copper tops won't work for the 20mm engine

 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #965  
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Shiney new block heater


It's an 1 1/4 socket to 30 ft lbs

 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #966  
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man them pistons and bores look great! 4 valves per cylinder! is the 7.3 ps 4 valves per cyl too?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #967  
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Ok,,,, I've got a question!!!! Which way do the valve bridges go???? The oblong hole towards the center,,, or to the outside??? Like this???


Or like this
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #968  
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Anyone???????
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #969  
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K while I'm waitin,,,, front cover


Cleaned the mating surface


Ta 29


Seal the crankcase to bed plate joint



I hope she don't leak



Bolt it up



Oil pressure regulator. I couldn't find the torque spec,,, I just tightened until it bottomed out


Coated the oil pump separately



It worked best to pull the outer gear out, mesh them together, then put them both in as one. The inner gear goes on the flat spots of the crank


I coated the cover oring with oil


I assumed this is the outer circumference of the crankshaft adapter.



So awesome to have the right tools. The front crank seal,,,, is a no brainer








He'll yeah!!!!! It's done
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #970  
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The red stuff in the tube you used on the crank seal is some sort of lube?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #971  
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you forgot to paint the front cover pink
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:48 PM
  #972  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
The red stuff in the tube you used on the crank seal is some sort of lube?
It's loctite
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:48 PM
  #973  
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Rusty, It's Loctite. But I thought that they had done away with that need.
I know that the rear one they did. The tools are so COOL AND HANDY I like my set.

Things will really start to move at this point. Just take your time

I just looked at Srmastertech 6.0 on Youtube and all he said
was install the valve components in the same location
The I got the 3 book set out and looked in the engine section and found the same
thing SO I get the Panasonic Tough Book laptop with the Ford DVD out and
look there. Same thing .
Guess we will have to wait for M-chan or see if you have it in one of your photos.

One hint with small things like the bridges when I take then apart I make a note as to
the orientation just incase ( I know it's too late now)

Sean
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #974  
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Originally Posted by daddykitty
you forgot to paint the front cover pink
Don't hate me cause I'm beautiful. Lol
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #975  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
The red stuff in the tube you used on the crank seal is some sort of lube?
It looked like lock tite but it must be lubricant huh....I hope
 
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