another one...

YouTube - #79 - VSPB Cell test final assembly

 

Lowell,
I bought an HHO kit awhile back and the guy included a pound of KOH so i tried it after less than stellar results came from my baking soda testing on my units. I had 4TBLSPN per gallon of distilled water in my units on the bench running it with a 10amp battery charger. When i hooked it up in the truck it drew 60amps right away so i drained them and started over and arrived at my 4TBLSP/2.5gal as my units are 2.5 gallons each and the distilled water i buy comes in 2.5 gallon jugs so it is easy to keep consistant.
once my PWM is installed i can re-adjust the electrolyte and maybe work towards eliminating it altogether which is a goal of mine as the KOH is caustic and i would rather work without it!
like Forrest said "one less thang"

 

I just found milehighhydoguy's videos on youtube last night. I love the design and would like to build on myself. The only thing i think needs to be figured out is that he is running the 14 small cells as 4 seprate cells (2@4cells each and 2@3 cells each). He said in the video that the amps were to high with all 14 as one. You should be able to run 7 cells as one to keep the volts to around 2 volts per cell as they claim is the max per cell without wasted energy and heat. So the question is why cant they be run that way? electrolyte to high? Will the PWM solve this? Plate spacing to close or to far (what is yours milehigh?)? I think Milehigh has done a great job here and for me would love to help him figure it out to the best results.

 

dlmcbm........this is where Tim purchaced his plans from HHO GENERATOR ELECTROLYZE BROWN GAS HYDROGEN OXYGEN (he posted the link several pages back) The cost of the plans are only $10 and it obviously works! I am concerned about the overall draw on the truck system though at the amount of amps he is running. If I had a pickup, I'd be in the process of building one now.......but I can not make this fit under my X's hood, not without blocking the radiator and I need all the cooling I can get here in FL. I also think because he does not have any neutral plates is why the draw is so high, every cell has power......I understand his design is around the use of a PWM. But w/ today's economy I can not afford the extra cash....I'd like mine to work w/out the need. (wishfull thinking)

Tim....what is the MAP adjuster your gotten and how much was it and where can we get one? Any info please? I have to say I am very impressed with your setup and your results so far....for what it's worth. On your last test, were you driving easy or hard (tach under or over 2k)? Thanks!

 

Hey TWTCAD-----If you look at his picture on page 27 post 393 he has seven cells together. He is using neutral plates. He hooks + to one end then 2nd plate is hooked to 3rd plate 4-5 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-neg. so plates 2-13 are all neutral plates. That should give 2V per cell at 14V. They are just spaced in there own units and hooked with a bus bar.

 

some answers to questions:

I am still testing and tweaking and have not re-wired the cells yet to run in series rather than seperated cells. that will be done soon.
My plate spacing is as in Brians plans at .187" and my plates are 5.5 x 3.0 each plus the .5 bent leg. Watching it thru the housings i can see even the SS hardware produces HHO!

MAP adjuster: I purchased on eBay where there are many listed, about $60. If you have a gas vehicle i would buy one with an "o2" **** as well to hook to the o2 sensor(s)
The MAP adjuster wires in between the sensor and the ECU so yu can adjust the boost or "Manifild Absolute Pressure" and lower it to get the mileage gains.

Last night i went for a 50.4 mile RT drive to get some MPG data and drove 16 miles city and 34 miles highway (35-65mph). I averaged 24MPG with lowering the boost to 8psi city and 6psi highway. tach was around 1900 highway (auto w/373 gears) driving with the traffic flow which is usually fast and furious. My gens temp was at 110 when i got home. (it takes alot to heat up 2.5gal each)

As soon as my PWM's get here (if they ever do) then i will re-wire the cells and pulse the electronics to best match the cells and see where we end up. I am sure i will be able to run at less than 30 amps and produe more HHO!

My PWM's cost $150 and $190 and i will see which one works best and sell the other.
So far I have spent less than $1000 on this adventure and i have learned tons!

 

OK.....I see, I didn't remember that. Sorry for the confusion! I'm still amazed at his production....I wonder what my production would be at 60amps.....with wire upgrade though, I'd melt the 10ga I'm using now.

Tim...have you tried less KOH? If so, was your production & amperage less? If you have already stated this....sorry thread is getting real long to go backtracking.

 

I would still do a longer test and hand calculate the MPGs just to be sure....

 

Check out this site Gorilla Development LLC - Our Products | The Kong They have a KILLER 80 cell 1000lph unit. The real reason is on the site they talk about how they have vacuum pumps on there units. They say that they produce more HHO under a vacuum.

 

If you've got one of those multi 100w boom-boom-boom systems installed just change over the output from the speakers to your electrolizier (dayglow background would Even give you a nice light show) ....might be more cost effective than a PWM!

 

On EBAY look up PWM quad .... this is the guy I bought my ss plates from ( they haven't arrived yet ) and he is also selling this contraption. I have no recommendations on it. EBAY listing for the most part are under fuel cells.

 

NEWS HEADLINE

RAP music and HHO-----The way to better fuel milage LOL

 

When I calculated the sq in of your unit, I only figured the inner surface between the two plates.
3x5 for 15 Sq in x 2 plates x 14 cells = 420 sq in

If I calculate the surface area not facing another plate, I am at 900 sq in. not counting the edges.
The edges add another 63.75 sq in. for a grand total of 963.75 sq in.
As it is right now, 15 plates 15 inches long x 2" wide and 1/8" thick.

I think you are gaining by having the seperate cells for each pair of plates, that would eliminate the unwanted current flow between plates.
It would also make a wiring change for experimental purposes much easier.
The way mine is constructed, I have to take everything apart, even the plates.
But mine all fits in a 6" PVC pipe 20" long.

I am using the truck battery with the engine running, total draw when I hook up both sides of my unit is 40 amps.

I am stuck with Ace lye or sodium hydroxide for now, the pool supply house here is closed before I can get there.
Work is going nuts right now, 4 retaining walls in two weeks, and one of them had steps in it.

Here is a wall with steps from December last year that I did.

 

Are those PVC railings?

Nice retaining wall though. Here they tend to simply pour a concrete or use massive blocks 2x2x4 feet each (looks like crap) in my neck of the woods. Making it like you did takes too much time for many to bother.

I'm in a similar predicament right now for time. I'm building on average the complete railing set for one house each week and I can barely keep. My Dad is out of the country right now, so I have to install them as well. More customers are calling and I can't do a thing about it. Usually the only time I have to tinker is in the evening or the week end. Good time I suppose.

 

Yes those are PVC railings.
I installed a better quality on the steps, PVC with an aluminum stiffener inide the top rail.

We install the concrete blocks like you are describing, but they are usually in a commercial application.

Winter before last we put 14,000+ blocks like the ones in the picture around a hotel to make the lot bigger.
The lower side wall is 34 feet tall with parking right up to the edge.
14,000+ blocks makes 14,000+ square feet of wall, and that is a lot of wall.
32" or 4 courses tall it would have been a mile long.