The HHO injection thread
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Going back in the thread abit there was a walmart "sports dry container" for $8.36 probably a pretty good candidate for an electrolyzer if you've got the space... a little back was a pic I ( with Daves help 
) posted that interesting looking little gray box thingy was 4x4x4 and 1/2 inches probably a little small for us truckers... I don't care what UPS says about making nothin but rh turns they should a been here long time ago with my plates bought off ebay!
) posted that interesting looking little gray box thingy was 4x4x4 and 1/2 inches probably a little small for us truckers... I don't care what UPS says about making nothin but rh turns they should a been here long time ago with my plates bought off ebay!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Lowell, i have my electolyte at 4 TBLSPN potassium hydroxide to 2.5 gallons distilled water. When i finished the units and started testing i used tap water and baking soda and the output of HHO was very low so i dumped it out and went to distilled water and wallah! HHO in large quantity! The KOH or pot ash is more caustic than i would like but it produces.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,346
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From: missouri
okay quick question which way seems to work best
P llllll N
N lllPlll N
P lllNlll P
N ll P ll N ll P
I read so many differnt ways do we just expermment with our own or is there a baseline to go from?
P llllll N
N lllPlll N
P lllNlll P
N ll P ll N ll P
I read so many differnt ways do we just expermment with our own or is there a baseline to go from?
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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I think this here ( http://aussie.astro2.googlepages.com..._cell_v1.2.pdf ) would be the way to go for the size of the unit if it works well. I think they call them "bricks". I dont have the tools to make something like it. Link has a lot of good info to go with it.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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I have been following this thread and fabbed up a hho generator this weekend and its works no problem but how do you measure the output. Maybe it was explained earlier but I cannot find it. Also would it be possible to have more cells and run 24V to it for more output
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Central Florida
japar......you will need a bucket like a 5 gallon paint bucket filled with water. Then you will need a small clear bottle as close to 1ltr as you can. 64oz. or 2qt. = 1.89ltr and 32oz. = 950ml Then fill your clear container w/ water by pushing it in the bucket, once filled flip it over so it is upside down, it will stay under water. Then insert your hose from your unit into the bottle under water and time how quickly you push the water out of the bottle. If you are crazy enough once the bottle fill w/ hho you can cap it and set the bottle in an open area, remove cap quickly and put flame to opening and boooom, it shoot off like a rocket. I personally value my fingers and have not done it, my by buddy did and I could not believe how loud it was and the force it took off! Oh and I do not recommend lighting it as it is very dangerous!
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Hey all,
Still waiting for my PWM units to arrive ( darn sparkies take a long time to build something!) I did receive my MAP adjuster and got it hooked up. With the boost lowered rediculously low (6psi) on the highway i maintained 50MPG for about 5 miles then turned it up to 8psi and maintained 35MPG! I see from this little test that i will acheive my goal of 36MPG highway average for extended trips. For city driving i will lower the boost a little but not that extreme. I am doing this MPG with 4.5LPM HHO from my generators running at 35-40amps. When my PWM arrives i can lower the amps and increase production. My gaol is 10LPM!
I am convinced that running your HHO gen on a PWM circuit is the ONLY way to go!
I ordered one from VPTechno.com and another from PWMPower.com. We will see which one works best.
Later
Tim
Still waiting for my PWM units to arrive ( darn sparkies take a long time to build something!) I did receive my MAP adjuster and got it hooked up. With the boost lowered rediculously low (6psi) on the highway i maintained 50MPG for about 5 miles then turned it up to 8psi and maintained 35MPG! I see from this little test that i will acheive my goal of 36MPG highway average for extended trips. For city driving i will lower the boost a little but not that extreme. I am doing this MPG with 4.5LPM HHO from my generators running at 35-40amps. When my PWM arrives i can lower the amps and increase production. My gaol is 10LPM!
I am convinced that running your HHO gen on a PWM circuit is the ONLY way to go!
I ordered one from VPTechno.com and another from PWMPower.com. We will see which one works best.
Later
Tim
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Hey milehigh, where are you getting your fuel milage from? Is it the onboard computer in the dash? I know back in the day they used vacume to calculate an estimated fuel milage-- they may still do the same and use the map sensor to do so by the amount of boost. By adjusting the map you may be adjusting the fuel milage you see on the dash also. you could drive down the road steady and turn you HHO on and off to see if it makes a change. you may have done something like this before in an earlier post that i missed. The best way is at the pump calculations.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Now if I can just get my production numbers up where they should be.
Milehigh has 420 square inches of reaction area making 4.5 LPM.
93.3 square inches are making 1 liter per minute.
Here I sit with 840 square inches making 1 liter in a minute thirty seconds.
560 square inches making one liter in one minute.
Houston, we have a problem.
Milehigh has 420 square inches of reaction area making 4.5 LPM.
93.3 square inches are making 1 liter per minute.
Here I sit with 840 square inches making 1 liter in a minute thirty seconds.
560 square inches making one liter in one minute.
Houston, we have a problem.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 476
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From: Central Florida
Now if I can just get my production numbers up where they should be.
Milehigh has 420 square inches of reaction area making 4.5 LPM.
93.3 square inches are making 1 liter per minute.
Here I sit with 840 square inches making 1 liter in a minute thirty seconds.
560 square inches making one liter in one minute.
Houston, we have a problem.
Milehigh has 420 square inches of reaction area making 4.5 LPM.
93.3 square inches are making 1 liter per minute.
Here I sit with 840 square inches making 1 liter in a minute thirty seconds.
560 square inches making one liter in one minute.
Houston, we have a problem.
I'm still working on my amperage issue (time permitting). My 420+ sq. inches of surface is producing a little better than 1 LPM at over 30amps since I blew a 30amp fuse.
Dave you definitely need to rinse your unit out real well and just use distilled water and 100% lye. Ace Hardware sells a small bottle of it for $3.00 and see if that makes a difference. Also are you testing on your running truck or a spare battery and charger? If the latter, check your voltage because when I was using a spare battery and charger I wasn't getting near what I would have gotten from the running truck.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Dave,
My units have a total of 462 sq in plate area=102.66 sq in making 1LPM running at 45amps constant at 110 degrees water temp. (i have a 60amp fuse in line)
Since i have my new MAP adjuster installed I just went for a 50.4 mile rt run after filling up at the local rip off station ($109.35 for 23.42 gal) ($4.65gal) and came back to that same pump after the trip a filled up again with the same nozzle and stuck in the same distance as before and let it shut off as before and i used 2.1Gal for a city/highway trip of 50.4 miles that = 24MPG combined. That is verifyable data and the first of my tests for MPG but i still do not have the bleeping PWM unit to install! Once i have one of them installed i expect better results.
My scan gauge II unit is fun to watch for the MPG but i am smart enough to know that is only for reference and that the real data come from the pumpo to pump fill ups and tracking miles accurately! The main reason i bought the scan gauge is to monitor boost pressure, volts and rpm.
My units have a total of 462 sq in plate area=102.66 sq in making 1LPM running at 45amps constant at 110 degrees water temp. (i have a 60amp fuse in line)
Since i have my new MAP adjuster installed I just went for a 50.4 mile rt run after filling up at the local rip off station ($109.35 for 23.42 gal) ($4.65gal) and came back to that same pump after the trip a filled up again with the same nozzle and stuck in the same distance as before and let it shut off as before and i used 2.1Gal for a city/highway trip of 50.4 miles that = 24MPG combined. That is verifyable data and the first of my tests for MPG but i still do not have the bleeping PWM unit to install! Once i have one of them installed i expect better results.
My scan gauge II unit is fun to watch for the MPG but i am smart enough to know that is only for reference and that the real data come from the pumpo to pump fill ups and tracking miles accurately! The main reason i bought the scan gauge is to monitor boost pressure, volts and rpm.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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On the waterfuel site in my last posting , about halfway down the page is their recommendations for electrolyte and how it relates to the material your building your electrolyzier from. KOH is readily available from swimming pool supply houses!
It would be interesting to find from Tim how he arrived at the electrolizier he has... it looks me that it is the result of lot of development. It has larger electrolyte surface and volume to plate area than the designs some of us are working on.... self included. This probably means less heat build up and fewer problems with foaming. I did read somewhere that someone had successfully added a few drops of diesel into the electrolyte which reduced its tendencies to foam.
While locating the electrolizier away from the engine compartment allows for cooling of the hho it might also be a problem in the winter time .... maybe a quick disconnect would work and make it availabe for another vehicle.
It would be interesting to find from Tim how he arrived at the electrolizier he has... it looks me that it is the result of lot of development. It has larger electrolyte surface and volume to plate area than the designs some of us are working on.... self included. This probably means less heat build up and fewer problems with foaming. I did read somewhere that someone had successfully added a few drops of diesel into the electrolyte which reduced its tendencies to foam.
While locating the electrolizier away from the engine compartment allows for cooling of the hho it might also be a problem in the winter time .... maybe a quick disconnect would work and make it availabe for another vehicle.