The box i beleive can handle probally 190 degs or more,i put hot water to 125 degs and it was still solid with no effects at all..

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/PICT0002.jpg

 

Thats what i was thinking that wiring parrellel is the only way to do it as in series voltage would drop with each following cell so out put would fall to each following cell,,i.e 12.5v to the first one 10.3v to the next one,and so on.Now with the pulse wave modulator it will be taking on a a/c voltage characteristics..Although not a sine wave still a pulsing frequency so ?? i dont know maybe series will be the ticket or ..Youv'e motivated me to get started,as time allows ------------------------I love this thread,,American ingenuity at work....

 

Are your driving a gasser? A map adjuster is not needed for my diesel is it?

I am in the process of building my smack.

 

Consider your truck battery.
6 cells wired in series, 2 volts per cell = 12 volt battery

So with a constant electrolyte strength and plate spacing, a 6 cell HHO generator will divide the 13.5 volts by 6 and use 2.25 volts per cell.



In my first test I hooked the negative to the long center plate, and a positive to each long side plate.
Spacing was .125" between plates that are 2" x 15" x .125".
The way it is, there are 4 cells per side wire series, and the two sides are wired parallel, so I was running 3.4 volts per cell and drawing about 20 amps per side for a 40 amp total draw.
I was making a liter of gas in 45 seconds.

Right now I have about 3/4 the stuff I need to change the spacing between plates to .0625" and add several more plates to each side.
Still waiting on another handfull of nylon washers so I can put it all back together.
If I was thinking right that night, I would have changed the wiring so positive went in one side plate and negative went in the other side plate to see what difference 8 cells wired series made in draw and production.
But I was tired and didn't think everything through before I tore it apart.
I may stick it back together just so I can do that while waiting on more parts though.

My original plan had a setup like that, with every other plate being either positive or negative.
But to much of my reading research has led me to believe that setup will have temperature problems.
So I went with the change in an effort to drop the voltage between plates to under 2 volts, just didn't have enough parts to get 7 plates on each side.

 

Dave....how are you isolating the + & - plates from the all thread you have holding the plates together? This is why I went with a nylon bolt & sleeve to hold all the plates together. I plan to do some more experimenting with mine Wednesday evening as I will be home alone for the evening.

 

I was wondering the same, and it looked like the metal was bent at the base and probably shorting out a couple of cells too.

 

you could also use rubber grommets like they sell at your local head shop for water bongs to go around the all thread. just throwing my old school stoner idea out there, not that i condone such activities any more. that type of grommet would be perfect though.

 

This is a huge thread here and i am trying to take it all in. anyway has anyone played with the spacing of the plates? I see that most are using .125 spacing. I just watched a video (youtube i think) that they had .010 spacing using electric tape and seemed to get nice size bubbles from it. Just thought i would throw that in there. maybe you all have done it already.

 

i would think that tape would cover up the suface area ? and the closer the plates are the more apt to shorting out i would think.

 

Action Products makes a model #5601 the same LxW but about 4 inches less hieght. It would probably mount along the underframe nicely and be a good place for it... Where to buy??

 

To much if you ask me,and a little short
http://www.theoutdoorworld.com/products2.cfm?id=3392

Hers another box that i like..Sportsmen’s Dry Box - SDB-0

http://www.ammoboxes.com/atvdrybox.html

 

I just did some math in another thread. If anyone can correct it please do.

It actually got me more excited! If only it could get me more time!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6265167

 

If I were to look at playing around a saturday with a fruitjar , wires and baking soda or sitting back with a six pack I think the latter has got it! I do think that putting togeather some stainless steel plates in a reasonable container with some adequate #10 AWG wiring maybe hooked through a starter solenoid (from JY ) hook to a switch the driver might operate with an indicator lite would be a worthwhile project. Spending some time and couple hundred geathering up and putting togeather a system that won't destroy your electrical system or corrode everything in sight that could potentially mean 20% better economy on the road sounds interesting!! If it works more fine tuning could be in order... and you would have something to build on (more plates ).

 

I havn't read the whold post, don't have time to, but what type of metal was most sutible for the plates. I may try expirementing with it some. Thanks

 

Definitely read everything here... and there are some good pointers to other sites. I found a couple of sellers of 316L plates already cut on EBAY.