Has anyone tried hooking up the leads in parallel to each pair of plates? Hook the positive lead to the left plate of each pair of plates and the negative lead to the right plate in each pair. In the case above, that would give you 6 pairs of plates all connected in parallel. Not sure what that would do to the amperage though.

Another thought I had was to switch the power to the generator using the accelerator pedal. Possibly use the signal from the Idle Validation Switch to turn on the generator relay. That way the 20-50 amp load is not present when the truck is stopped and idling. My air conditioner needs all the amps it can get during the summer here.

Shawn

 

Whats the point in the drone plates between cathode and anode? anyone an answer on that? Activity for shure is directly related to plate to plate surface and exectrolyte strength and inversely to distance between the plates.

If one was to hook the positive voltage source directly to the alternator output stud and source the rest of the vehicle through a blocking diode so the battery wouldn't smooth out the ripple first (may affect voltage regulation?). Why would one need a PWM source?

I'm planing a cubical shaped electrolizer so I can run power from the cell to the side with SS buss...don't think any copper wire or brass would be uneffected by the electrolyte.

I'm planing on putting the electrolizer in a Walmart type container and venting liquid/gas to outside or the vehicle!

 

Lots of vidios with comments on you tube...search hho!

http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v/=TJBUM...eature=related

 

Hey where did everyone go? here is a better one...

http://ie.youtube.com/user/bornman88

 

well i talked to a mechanic i know that has woked on every kind of diesel known to man and he says the sparks were carbon coming out and probably does so alot i just dont notice it because i rarely drive the pickup that hard.

 

Suspect that would be exactly what you wanted to see... more complete combustion, however not to the point of your exhaust system being cherry-red! How would you adjust fuel mixture on a gas engine? Of course I know that is pretty anchient but an understanding of the process and theory are nice to have.

 

carburated or injected?

 

Don't think there is any adjustment reasonably available on EEK stuff and certainly not much of anything on curburated after 1972.

I had a 73' cad eldo w 524 ci engine that I had 3 different Rochester spreadbores (vacaum operated secondaries). HP BOOKS had a book on how to re do those carburators. The EPA estimate was 7mpg... and that 4700 lb car would hardly get out of its own way,the engine almost glowed because it was set for such a lean burn! Valves on some cars of that era needed to be reground every 30k miles.. I had one carb with restrictors drilled out,rejetted and with other mods made with info from that book that woud give 13 mpg and almost set you into the backseat if you floored it at 70mph... Unfortunately sence that era little info and almost no none oem type equipment is available. When I was old enough to know the differance between a ford wrench and a ball peen hammer I was taking things apart and trying to put them back togeather and get them working. Good ole days when we could use leaded gas as parts cleaner
and still be around today to talk about it!

 

Several points about HHO A/F Ratio:

HHO will ignite at almost any A/F ratio, so it's not too important to control it. A knock sensor would be useful since too much HHO will cause the detonation.

The HHO increases the speed of the flame front propagation. Fossil fuel burns at 100s of feet per second whereas HHO burns at 8000 ft per second. All of the fuel is burned in the cylinder before the exhaust valve opens. That’s why the EGT will be reduced. This is the reason HHO increases fuel economy. The pressure created in the cylinder needs to be greatest around 10 ADC and diminish before the exhaust valve has to open. Your timing has to be advanced to give the fossil fuel time to develop its pressure peak at the right time. As the concentration of HHO goes up, its influence increases. There is a point at which the HHO will cause detonation if it is ignited at the same point as Fossil fuels and the timing will have to be retarded. Therefore it is important to have a knock sensor when increasing the amount of HHO.

The ideal way to control the output would be to use a PWM system that would be connected to the TPS to match output to requirement. MORE throttle – More HHO. The voltage required to break water down is 1.24Volts. Higher voltages will create heat which is wasted energy. That’s why most units are 6 or 7 cells. The reaction starts slowly at lower than 1.24 volts and increases very little at above 1.24 volts. A PWM controller puts out a square wave whose amplitude does not change. The current is switched on and off at a selected frequency so the voltage never goes below the optimum. The cells actually run at higher voltages because the SS plates are not ideal conductors and produce a voltage drop internally that has to be compensated for.

The drone plates are used to create a longer path for current to bypass the active area of the cells. As stated earlier, this current leakage causes heat to be generated, wasting energy that should be used to break down the water. The edges of the active cell could be sealed to prevent this leakage and the drone plates could be eliminated.

Sorry about the rambling. I’ll try to do better.

 

Nice info Marianna. OK i got my first test done. I was running a 7 plate setup of wall plates. I used distilled water with 2 table spoons of Lye per 1 gal. they were single plates in a +nn-nn+ also switched polarities to -nn+nn-. I got same results of a 20oz. (.591L) soda bottle in 47 seconds so about 1L in about 1min. 18 sec. 24 amps cold 31 amps hot. Here is the question I have---- the N plates seemed to do nothing at all. are they there just to cut down voltage? would a PWM elimanate the need for the N plates ? I was thinking of going to the old 8 plate -+-+-+-+ should I? is there an easy way to down voltage to 2 volts without PWM? Or should I go to a 12 plate -+-+-+-+-+-+ in series to keep the voltage to 2V per pair of plates. also I am using about 1/8th in. spacing between plates. Thanksfor any info guys.

 

Excellent info I certainly prefer your rambling to mine!

 

All of the plates in mine make about the same amount of gas.

My last test was +nnn-nnn+ for the wiring with 1/8" between all plates.

2 heaping teaspoons of sodium hydroxide to 1.5 gallons of water.
Each + terminal was drawing 20 amps for a 40 amp total after it had been running for several minutes.

My plates are 2" x 15" 304 stainless.
One liter in 45 seconds

 

Hey Dave I have some good pictures that might work here but I don't know how to post them...If you sent me an e-mail I could send them to you and at your discretion you could do it! I love to see this thread keep on going..

 

A 7 cell series system would probably do the best. That would give you something less than 2 volts per cell. A PWM allows you to control the average current by adjusting the 'on' versus 'off' time without changing the voltage. As far as the spacing goes, I don't know if it is important. Remember if you want to increase the current with the spacing you have, you can simply increase the concentration of electrolyte.

 

This looks interesting...
1# seller - PWM Circuit