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My Cat water separator is 10 micron, thats pre pump. The post pump filter is 2 micron.
Originally Posted by Khan
There is a wix filter in the sticky section of the SD forum that filters as well as the shower heads. I don't run anything, I deleted the in tank stuff and rely on the pre pump filter after the selector without issues.
Now that I really think about what I have, my water separator is pre pump as well so that should do a decent job.
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I just use my efuel filters too. KISS
Think of this...it still filters better than stock.
oh I know it filters better than stock. The thing I want most out of this is to have a clear housing to be able to see any debris that comes out of the tank. With the shower heads gone I would worry about what comes the pump. But I suppose having a sump rather than a sender would prevent any build up in the bottom of the tank, as it would all flow down to the first filter
Now that I really think about what I have, my water separator is pre pump as well so that should do a decent job.
oh I know it filters better than stock. The thing I want most out of this is to have a clear housing to be able to see any debris that comes out of the tank. With the shower heads gone I would worry about what comes the pump. But I suppose having a sump rather than a sender would prevent any build up in the bottom of the tank, as it would all flow down to the first filter
If you're worried about seeing stuff pre selector that WIX filter see through and 8 dollars. @BBslider001 runs it I'm pretty sure
I finally got around to rotating the tires and doing a shakedown. Definitely need new rear axle seals. And have some play in my drivers side upper ball joint. Any recommendations for ball joint brands? I’ve been reading that people like XRF but I can’t seem to find it for sale from anywhere I’ve heard of.
Seems to me we know someone w the full Rotunda tool kit. But who? Hmm
If you can rebuild an axle you can easily do a manual box. Only problem is they are awkward due to weight. And removal of races from the case is unpleasant.
If lazy just replace 2/3/4 syncros and get on with life.
I think thats all it really needs is the syncros. Shifts ok when you go slow but above 2k or downshifting it doesn't like to go without grinding a bit.
Start rev matching upshifts. Helps it and you can feel it shift easier. I sent Khanman a vid of me shifting clutchless.
Only thing to note is often 5/R slider and the main shaft R gear often have torn up dogs. That is at the assend of the shaft so at that point replace all syncros. Only brass one is reverse. Rest are steel.
Need a toaster oven for reassy of syncro body to shaft. Mine was around $10 at goodwill.
