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IMO I would do a stock rebuild with ARP head studs, unless you plan on pushing big power then start looking more into the higher end of stuff.
if you can source cheap I would do super duty fuel system, it's reliable and from what I've read it's more than capable of supporting 400hp+
I have an Irate Diesel system with regulated return already, unless you’re talking about something internal that I didn’t know was different between the SD and OBS trucks?
I agree that a basic rebuild with some preventative parts like the dipstick adapter are the best option.
Big power requires big money on these engines. A set of ported heads is like $5500!
yeah that’s what my research last night showed me… seems like it’s a basic rebuild and then turbo and injectors are really all you can do before you have to shell out $10k+ to make more power
Have all the rods balanced within a reasonable weight, +/- 1g is pretty common I believe. Small end has bushings, cheap to replace. ARP rod bolts requires big end resized, easy. Then entire rotating assy balanced. ARP main studs will require a basic line hone of the mains.
One of our members, 427fordman I think, showed how far out of balance a stock bottom end is from the factory. Shocking really.
I would put my cash there, can do turbo and injectors later.
Should get de lipped pistons too. I just had welding rod catch under the lip and bend through the GP hole while trying to find TDC on my engine. Freaked me out pretty bad when it didn't want to come back out...
Have all the rods balanced within a reasonable weight, +/- 1g is pretty common I believe. Small end has bushings, cheap to replace. ARP rod bolts requires big end resized, easy. Then entire rotating assy balanced. ARP main studs will require a basic line hone of the mains.
One of our members, 427fordman I think, showed how far out of balance a stock bottom end is from the factory. Shocking really.
I would put my cash there, can do turbo and injectors later.
I was actually just starting to think about getting things rebalanced. Found out there is a race motor builder 20 mins from me that has good reviews and does all sorts of machine work and balancing
Originally Posted by Khan
Should get de lipped pistons too. I just had welding rod catch under the lip and bend through the GP hole while trying to find TDC on my engine. Freaked me out pretty bad when it didn't want to come back out...
I thought I read somewhere that delipped pistons are for like 600+ hp motors and can cause excessive smoke? Maybe that was something else I read about
I remember from my 6.4 days, all aftermarket short blocks it was highly recommended for hot spot reduction as I recall on piston face. We did Maxxforce 7s usually.
All I know is put cash into bottom end. Rest can always be done later.
Should get de lipped pistons too. I just had welding rod catch under the lip and bend through the GP hole while trying to find TDC on my engine. Freaked me out pretty bad when it didn't want to come back out...
I was worried about something like that so I just used a straw.
I thought I read somewhere that delipped pistons are for like 600+ hp motors and can cause excessive smoke? Maybe that was something else I read about
I don't know what I'm talking about but a piston coated will help with heat, I think. I blew a hole in a piston once so If I ever rebuild I would get the coating.
After reading through his thread, I think I’m going to buy another long block for cheap and build that and just drop it in since I’m basically doing all new accessories anyways excluding turbo, injectors, and HPOP. Might be able to get a decent chunk back by selling the old motor