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Well, when I build my autos I look for any and all technical updates as well as late version items installed that will reto back...like my turbo BMW I stuffed V12 guts into it. No issues, stronger, more clutches, etc. Apparently when it evolved to 4R100 it had steel planets with more pinions, drums changed I think, etc
All items need to be inspected close for wear. I have seen the center support changed to a roller bearing. Ask Queasy (John) as he builds his own. There is some spiral snapring upgrade for coast clutch. I think also for low/rev, but that may be from my 5R110W days.
Good hydraulic upgrade kit aka shift kit. I am putting Superior's PT4R100 kit into my 01 Expedition here. Similar as to Tugger from TransGo.
Obviously a triple clutch, low stall converter. Billet cover if in budget.
Clutches are like motor oil. Read about all friction materials, some are better with more line pressure aka more aggressive shifting. My street stuff I do Alto HEG. BUT you may or may not always be able to stuff more clutches into a given pack. Depends on so many variables.
If building more than one, buy a foot press. If not, unsure tools to compress the bits.
Well, when I build my autos I look for any and all technical updates as well as late version items installed that will reto back...like my turbo BMW I stuffed V12 guts into it. No issues, stronger, more clutches, etc. Apparently when it evolved to 4R100 it had steel planets with more pinions, drums changed I think, etc
All items need to be inspected close for wear. I have seen the center support changed to a roller bearing. Ask Queasy (John) as he builds his own. There is some spiral snapring upgrade for coast clutch. I think also for low/rev, but that may be from my 5R110W days.
Good hydraulic upgrade kit aka shift kit. I am putting Superior's PT4R100 kit into my 01 Expedition here. Similar as to Tugger from TransGo.
Obviously a triple clutch, low stall converter. Billet cover if in budget.
Clutches are like motor oil. Read about all friction materials, some are better with more line pressure aka more aggressive shifting. My street stuff I do Alto HEG. BUT you may or may not always be able to stuff more clutches into a given pack. Depends on so many variables.
If building more than one, buy a foot press. If not, unsure tools to compress the bits.
Hope it helps.
thank you, that’s great info! I was just starting to look into what 4r100 parts I should snag, since they seem to have many interchangeable parts
I have not built an E4OD, just occasional reading for hours. It is a C6 with OD up front in the most simple form from what I gather. All major brands added an OD to existing platforms.
Big builders will have tons of tricks and tips only they know. Some reveal, but usually over the head of the lay person.
Oh, I read solenoid packs are very specific for certain year spans.
Purchase an ATSG manual too. For domestic stuff, they are full of step by step breakdowns of all subassemblies as well as critical valve body exploded diagrams. VBs always take me longest as most specific part to do. Polish bores, clean, reassembly, etc. Anything reversed or left out give you a bad day.
I built my ZF manual with never being inside one. So no reason to be scared of inside.
I have not built an E4OD, just occasional reading for hours. It is a C6 with OD up front in the most simple form from what I gather. All major brands added an OD to existing platforms.
Big builders will have tons of tricks and tips only they know. Some reveal, but usually over the head of the lay person.
Oh, I read solenoid packs are very specific for certain year spans.
Purchase an ATSG manual too. For domestic stuff, they are full of step by step breakdowns of all subassemblies as well as critical valve body exploded diagrams. VBs always take me longest as most specific part to do. Polish bores, clean, reassembly, etc. Anything reversed or left out give you a bad day.
I built my ZF manual with never being inside one. So no reason to be scared of inside.
that’s awesome to know about the ATSG manual. My new neighbor has rebuilt a couple E4ODs and after he borrowed my truck this weekend he said “you need to buy a rebuild kit for your tranny so we can fix that.” I guess it’s not all that surprising. The PO had the trans rebuilt about 50k ago, and then again by the same shop under warranty 3k later… so I’m not certain they did a great job. But now that I’ve pretty well solidified all of my motor research (aside from final decision on which T4 turbo), I guess it’s time to dive into the E4OD research!
Bear in mind if you start doing billet shafts, you will spend money fast. Input is fairly reasonable around $300 (same as my 5R110W I recall)
BUT
Means shafts behind it are next in line to fracture. I swear intermediate shaft wears on its teeth, so would need judgement call to cough up for billet or go standard. I think stock stuff more forgiving, think torsion bar, but billet stronger. So again, more research and more executive decisions.
To me, you would need yuge power to fracture an output shaft.
T4 turbo sizing is a rabbit hole, but a very important one. Really boils down to how you drive the truck, what injectors you're going to run, etc.
The current trend in the SD forum is swapping to the 363/68/.91 from their 364.5/73/.91 turbos. @ESwift actually converted both of his 7.3s to the 363/68 small turbine, with one having 140/30's and the other 180/30 injectors.
KC Turbos turbo sizing is a very good start to look at for sizing a correct T4 as they based their stuff off the SXE line. That being said I'm gearing up for a 363/68/.83 on my truck because of the elevation. I also have 160/0's though so not huge. I wouldn't have any problem running the 363 on injectors up to 200/30 though.
Bear in mind if you start doing billet shafts, you will spend money fast. Input is fairly reasonable around $300 (same as my 5R110W I recall)
BUT
Means shafts behind it are next in line to fracture. I swear intermediate shaft wears on its teeth, so would need judgement call to cough up for billet or go standard. I think stock stuff more forgiving, think torsion bar, but billet stronger. So again, more research and more executive decisions.
To me, you would need yuge power to fracture an output shaft.
Research and ask the guys here.
The price of billet parts is always the killer. Looks like a standard rebuild kit is around $600 so I need to look into what parts are worth upgrading and what parts are not
Originally Posted by Khan
T4 turbo sizing is a rabbit hole, but a very important one. Really boils down to how you drive the truck, what injectors you're going to run, etc.
The current trend in the SD forum is swapping to the 363/68/.91 from their 364.5/73/.91 turbos. @ESwift actually converted both of his 7.3s to the 363/68 small turbine, with one having 140/30's and the other 180/30 injectors.
KC Turbos turbo sizing is a very good start to look at for sizing a correct T4 as they based their stuff off the SXE line. That being said I'm gearing up for a 363/68/.83 on my truck because of the elevation. I also have 160/0's though so not huge. I wouldn't have any problem running the 363 on injectors up to 200/30 though.
Well after reading this I did a bunch of research on the 363. Seems like it’s definitely a newer trend for 7.3s as there isn’t nearly as much info out there. But based on everyone’s opinions that runs the 363, it kind of shifts my debate over to 363 vs 364.5 instead of 364.5 vs 366
I've read where this is supposed to be a direct bolt on for our truck, but have yet to see any one do it. Let us know how it goes.
From what I have read its not quite bolt on. Minor modifications to the sending unit and I might not be able to reuse the mounting straps. But we shall see! Not sure when I will get around to this project, but I don't imagine it will be very soon
You won't have to mess with the electrical or fuel part, but I'm sure you are going to have to modify the straps and such
A few years back I installed a rear fuel tank from an 06 CC 38 gallon tank, electrical and fuel lines were all bolt on it even reads the fuel level correctly but had to do some modifying for the strapping.
You won't have to mess with the electrical or fuel part, but I'm sure you are going to have to modify the straps and such
A few years back I installed a rear fuel tank from an 06 CC 38 gallon tank, electrical and fuel lines were all bolt on it even reads the fuel level correctly but had to do some modifying for the strapping.
that’s exactly what I was thinking. Thank you! Now hopefully I can find the time to pull the bed some time soon and get started
Nice, looks like a fun project. What's going on with the boot on your stabilizer? Trying to get one to cobble together for my truck. Might even work.
the PMF kit mounts to the diff cover and I had to slightly compress the shock on that side when the steering is centered. Still has plenty of room to not bottom out or over extend so I never messed with it too much. One of my favorite things I’ve done to the truck. Drives so much better on these ****ty Colorado roads
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