it has 5 rails total. One for 1&2, one for 3&4, one for 5, one for L&R, and one main shift rail. In those pics I have the main removed and I believe 5th and L&R the plan for now is just bearings and synchros. Had one bearing that is totally shot. Like exploded. Its the case bearing for the countershaft

 

Thanks! Disassembly is not going well today. I’m about to go to the store to buy parts to make the 2nd puller of the day haha.
Well, I recommend finding one that isn’t in need of a rebuild lol. Can’t complain about the deal I got, and I’m enjoying learning how MTs go together

 

Well, I’m happy with the progress made today. Had to build a puller that can reach far enough, but had enough grade 8 hardware laying around that all I had to buy was a new bolt to push with. The thing was bending like a piece of macaroni, so I applied heat and POP! She came apart! It popped as I was discussing how to reinforce the puller because obviously it was a lot or force to bend grade 8 hardware like that. The main and counter shafts are out of the center section of the case. Detent pin plugs are out. Tomorrow I’ll rent a bearing puller and standard jaw puller to get the bearings off the shafts and the gears/synchros out and inspected. So far everything looks to be in fantastic condition. Since I have it apart I’ll replace all bearings, races, and synchros, but it almost feels silly to do this much work seeing that the real issue lies in the backside of the case. Oh well, onward and upward

 

Well every time we go to work on that 4Runner we find more problems and need to wait on more parts. Today we went to install the brand new ported and polished heads, to find out that the company who built them installed a damaged valve. Gotta find out what they will do for us on Monday.

But that didn’t stop me from spending my Christmas bonus on parts for the ford. I almost bought all the parts to rebuild the trans, but figured I should address some issues and maintenance before that. Ordered glow plugs and relay, UVC harnesses and gaskets, injector o rings, valve shims and stem seals (since I have the 910s waiting), riffraff billet plenums (realized that my plenums are cracked), and a new power steering pump since mine leaks. Debating getting a new water pump while I’m at it since mine has a tiny leak (never had to top it off, but always see a green drop on the bottom of the pump). I’m also debating getting some push rods since I’m already doing everything else I want under the valve covers. Think the pushrods would be worth it?

 

Definitely do push rods while down that far.

@z31freakify has seen stock engines bend rods I believe. Smith bros and manton rods are both good and honestly aren't too bad price wise. I think the stage 1 SB rods can be had for 200 or less IIRC.

 

Agreed. Basically the last main thing while you’re in there may as well be safe

 

So smith brothers comes in 0.083 and 0.120 wall and Manton comes in 0.095 and 0.145 wall. Little price increase on each. Is there much of a reason to go with the heavier wall if I’m not pushing crazy boost or power numbers?

 

Anything is better than stock. If you’re gonna make 40+ I’d get one of the thicker ones

 

thanks for the advice. Probably won’t ever go that high on this motor, so I’ll get the thinner wall

 

But as long as you’re not a 1/4 miles nut I doubt the smaller ones would give any problem at those levels

 

Heck yeah bud. You can always call the pros who sell them and get some opinions too if you want. Been enjoying this thread man great work!

 

thanks! It’s been a fun year with the truck. Really bought it just as a tow rig, but fell in love with it and became obsessed with making it exactly what I want it to be haha. The amount of knowledge you guys have shared with me has been extremely helpful!

 

Rebuild your own steering pump. That is $40-60 you can squander on other crap. Make sure the high side hose is fresh and consider an inline filter on return, Magnefine for example, to keep system clean. Ford says ATF, I have PS oil. Meh, still fine after nearly 30k.

I have Smith Broski rods, forgot wall thickness and moot at this point as have seen easily 30psi and 3500rpm area many times. Beats stock as stated...if I can rip gears quick enough in Rojo to drop into 13.999 I would laugh my *** off and be happy as can be. My truck is consistent and solid as can be compared to most junk out there. NOT including members here. Besides pure beef pushrods are a bragging right.

Water pump wise, yes. Do it while in there if already leaking. If lazy, at least do an inline filter...BUT if you are in there for pump and filter, flush it all out and most of us run Fleetcharge as it comes precharged with SCA for these and the IH IDIs.

 

Thank you guys for the advice. Unfortunately, I am back to share bad news. My truck must have caught wind that I was going to work on it, and wanted that process expedited. Started misfiring at idle, and then about a mile down the road fell on its face. Missing really hard at low RPMs, slightly better as they go up. Turned around and limped it home. Checked for codes, got none. Unplugged ICP and threw a code/ran even worse. Plugged in the AE tool, ICP and duty cycle seemed good for how the truck was running. Ran a buzz test, all injectors sounding pretty much the same, passed the test. Ran contribution 3 times. All 3 times failed cylinders 2, 4, and 7. Pulled the valve covers and found that the UVCHs looked like they must have been replaced when the injectors were (roughly 60-70k ago) looked like they were in good shape, but I still have a feeling the issues in 2 and 4 are from that harness since they run off the same one. All of the injectors looked like they were flowing oil pretty much the same. Borrowed a compression tester from my neighbor, pulled all glow plugs, then gave up for the night after I couldn’t get the tester to thread into the glow plug holes. The tester takes a 9/16 socket, which I can’t fit next to the rocker arm. Not sure exactly what to do next. But I plan on finishing the compression test. If it has low compression, I’m going to pull it out. That probably wouldn’t be causing this issue, but if it’s low compression, I’m not going to spend time figuring this out when I need a rebuild. If it passes compression, I’ll swap the injectors around to see if they are bad. Would be surprising if all 3 went bad at the same time…

 

That sucks. Hopefully its a simple fix.