Dug into the motor a decent amount tonight. Got the heads pulled… found out why the motor was pulled… I’m thinking this will need a sleeve. There’s a decent divot in the cylinder wall. Hoping the head can be machined flat into spec. If the machine shop says it can’t be done, the shop I got the motor from will refund me so I’m not super worried about it. Oh, it’s a PMR motor

 

I think I have a Dieselsite spacer. Seems to work fine.

IMO. I would swap blocks. See if you can just find a beat one that has forged rods and a non destroyed cylinder.

Unless you plan aftermarket rods for some reason. Cylinder pressure bends em. 427 fordman went aftermarket. Crower maybe? Oliver? Follow his build and spend the cash to balance that rotating assembly. These are comically out of balance, which is probably why my Fluidampr made such a huge difference.

 

I do plan on swapping to billet rods. Reason being that I know I’m an idiot, and I’m sure one day I’ll end up with another truck that I tow with, and this one will become a toy and probably get compounds. No clue if or when that will happen, but I figure I might as well do that now, with the rest of the build rather than do it later. I will also have the rotating assembly balanced with either a fluidamper or ATI damper. The rebuild on this will probably take a couple of years, as I don’t expect to have the money to complete it any time soon.

but either way, if the machine shop doesn’t think it’s salvageable, I’ll get a different block

 

Any more work on this? Interested if that block is going to work out for you

 

I'll take some pictures when I get home. Its been a slow disassembly, as I have been bagging and labeling every part and piece of hardware. Have all of the pistons and rods out, hoping my neighbor brings home his big impact and harmonic balancer puller tonight so I can easily get the rest of the block stripped. Down to the crank, cam, front cover, harmonic balancer, and LPOP. Then I'll take it to the machine shop and see what they think. I'm guessing it'll need to be sleeved on that cylinder and honed on the rest. It looks to be in good shape in terms of the other 7. But I haven't heard too much about sleeving 7.3s, so I guess we will see

 

Little bit more work done on the engine tear down, and a little bit of work done on the truck itself.

All that's left in the motor is the crank, cam, LPOP, front cover. Once I take that apart I'll load it up and swing by the machine shop.

I keep breaking door handles. The PO put metal handles on, that broke first. Then I bought a new OEM plastic one, broke it. Stole the driver rear door handle, broke it. Currently have the passenger rear door handle on my driver door. I have just left the door panel off for about a month so I don't have to keep pulling it. finally got around to installing a door handle reinforcement bracket, new door hinge pins, and a new striker. This made a huge difference. Once I dig around in the basement and find some old sound deadening, I'll throw that and a new handle on the door and close it up, hopefully for good!

A few weeks ago I went to put the truck in park, and it kept rolling... shut it off, turned on the e brake and crawled underneath. Turns out a little rubber boot on my shifter cable decided that 26 years was enough time on this planet. Threw some zip ties on and away we went. Got the new shifter cable installed last night, and now I can actually feel the shifter click into each gear.

So the new CNC HPOP fixed my romping start up problem for about a month, and then it slowly reared its ugly head again. Having tried 5w-40 oil, new ICP, IPR, HPOP, EBP sensor and tube, e fuel, hpx line, fuel additives, I had pretty much given up. The only thing I hadn't tried was a neutral safety switch. But I didn't try that because everyone who had that fix their issue stated that they figured it out because their truck started fine in neutral. Mine still started like crap in neutral, so I ruled it out. Well, when I was changing the shifter cable last night, I grew a wild hair on my *** and ran down to the parts store for a neutral safety switch. IT WORKED. Now here is to hoping it lasts this time around.

 

Figured the Mexpedition needed an MLPS (4R100 in it) due to random no starts in park. Rebuilt the column with new bushings and found two backed out Torx fasteners at the assend of column.

Thus far nothing amiss at all.

PS, the Fairbanks/Superior shift kit is great in it that I just installed. Maybe someday @Khan will put a shift kit in his troca.

 

One of these days. It'll have to grab a number and get in the back of the line! Seems like I'm always busy with something now. Strangely more busy now than I was when I was active duty. Weird!

 

I thought Khanman was installing a "Manuel" manual tranny?!

Autos are nice, but don't have the same level of fun when driving. Least thats my. 02

It is pretty involved to swap though.

 

[QUOTE

Autos are nice, but don't have the same level of fun when driving. Least thats my. 02
.[/QUOTE]

exactly!

 

I would say holding boost through shifts are fun does that count? Also leaves 1 hand free for my extra large pumpkin spice latte

 

Ah yes, Manuél transmission.

You aint going fast with a stock stall. Once it locks you probably will backhalf decent.

 

Still slower than your 300

 

The 3.08:1 geared 300 is going to be a riot to drive. It may have bit more pep in its step with no cats and a good muffler.

 

Man, all this talk about Manuel transmissions... It's almost like you know what I am hoping to buy this weekend...