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People like to use an inpact and go until it runs out of ugga duggas.
My F350 has stamped on each lug nut 160 lbs max. I think i do like 130.
Did brake on a buddies carry once and it called for something stupid low like 35 ft lbs. I told him I didn't feel comfortable leaving his lugs at that.
My pal has TWO Geo Metros. One is auto for bombing in city, other manual for freeway. Torque for the lugs is about that area 35-40 Shockingly a fairly large vehicle inside!
Really hate shops that just tighten with an impact. LAZY and incompetent. Probably why it takes me forever to do things, I torque everything.
You too!? I have a coworker that has 2 and a half Metros! He got one from a guy that "decked" it all out. Racing stripe that says 1.0 liter sport edition and some fancy felt lining the rear hatch . I think both of his are 5 speeds. The half is just a parts car now. He bombs around in them all year up here somehow.
They do get like 45-50 mpg and cost practically nothing to buy.
One is a Zip built 1990 and has M E T R O on the side in some streak letters, like some racer. Someone gave it to him as it needed a head, they burn exhaust valves bad. $250 later it ran. $500 later 100% durable...12" rims. It is hilarious. AC works. Trying to con him into a 1.3 SOHC swap for town driving, put the lower mile/new head engine in the freeway car as has overdrive! That one is from Canada, I think a 1993? Still first gen and quattroporte like the other. Some car lot here has some second gen coupe I may swindle, fix, flip. Used car market is hilarious now.
Oh. Truck related. I still have a Powerstroke. Broke drum free on the 4.9. So we go from 8 to 6 to 3.
I did buy a $300 Kia Soul from a neighbor to flip. I think it is a 2010 or 2011, needs a T-belt and a fender.
Sorry to interrupt the geo metro thread with some powerstroke junk
got about 70 miles on the truck since the swap. Haven’t hooked the autoenginuity up to it to check ICP and duty cycle yet, but it is running awesome.
still need to track down and fix my boost leak so it actually runs great again.
ALSO, my truck has a horrible case of the romps on start up. Been battling it since like November. I started cheap and worked my way up in terms of fixes people have noted on here and other sites. Tried 5w40 rotella (went back to 15w after it didn’t work) new ICP, EBP sensor and tube, new IPR, e fuel system (had low contribution in cylinder 8 due to the never ending fuel leaks), HPO cross over, and now the new HPOP.
I’m out of ideas on what’s causing the romp. Fuel pressure is good, I know the ICP is good, new HPOP seems great, EBP sensor and tube aren’t clogged
Maybe the IPR was kinda bad out of the box? Maybe LPOP? I’m not burning a noticeable amount of oil so I don’t think it’s injector o rings.
Oh, and it still romps when I start in neutral so I don’t think it’s the TRS. And I’ve been running archoil in my oil the last 15k. Searching through all the threads it seems like I have done or ruled out everything that anyone suggests
started a new thread on this, hoping it hits some more eyes and I get a bunch of new ideas haha
moving sucks. But it sucks a little less when you have an 8’ bed and a roommate with a 7’ flatbed and a 20’ flatbed trailer. Started about 8am and got almost everything moved in and a lot unpacked. Only 3.8 miles as the crow flies between the houses, so that makes it a bit easier too. Anywho, here’s the truck update:
Drove great all day except at one point I wasn’t paying attention since it had been doing well and had my music up high and didn’t notice the truck shut itself off at a stoplight… that was about 90 miles after the HPOP change. Fired right back up (with some romping) and drove great the rest of the day. My last load was just some clothes, so when I got to the decent sized hill that has given me troubles in the past, I put it in the hottest tune I have and floored it. I was monitoring ICP and duty cycle at the time. Held steady around 2950 ICP and 40-42% duty cycle. Much better than before. Didn’t throw any codes (for the first time in a while). On flat ground I was seeing upwards of 3200 ICP and low to mid 30s duty cycle when I got in it hard.
Seems like my drivability issues are solved thanks fo the CNC stage 2 HPOP, now it’s time to pull the front off and take the IC out to clean out the oil, and do a little more trimming on the core support so I can get a real IC pipe clamp on the connections rather than the normal hose clamps on there now. Never had that issue with the old tired turbo, but as soon as I refreshed it, the boost blew the pipe out a bit and has never sealed back up quite right. Should be a fairly quick evening and morning project (now that summer is in Colorado in June) whenever I find a good weekend to tackle it. Probably will wait until I get the Tacoma’s drive shaft rebuilt so that I have a backup truck in case I find some other issues
After looking back at my ICP and duty cycle numbers (roughly 3000 and 40%) I think it’s good to note that my old HPOP seems to have been capable of pushing at full capacity, but only for a second or two before it just completely gave up
Ew, still have all that fuel filter bowl harness there? Check my thread, I show how to remove all that caca.
My old HPOP would hit 3k for a second then fall upon its face, truck would buck on the top end of the RPM scale on a hotter tune. Hilarious. New is clean and smooth pull. You and I both needed it, just like countless other guys.
Don't give Brett exclusivity for pictures. He's too busy playing with yellow snow all day to look at them!
You get those valve springs in yet?
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Ew, still have all that fuel filter bowl harness there? Check my thread, I show how to remove all that caca.
My old HPOP would hit 3k for a second then fall upon its face, truck would buck on the top end of the RPM scale on a hotter tune. Hilarious. New is clean and smooth pull. You and I both needed it, just like countless other guys.
Yeah I want to clean it up a lot. Plan on doing that when I do the SD UVCH and valve springs