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I don't know what I'm talking about but a piston coated will help with heat, I think. I blew a hole in a piston once so If I ever rebuild I would get the coating.
hmm this seems like a good idea. If I did this I’d have to source everything individually instead of just getting the factory overhaul kit
I put the coated, de lipped pistons in mine, the coating does help with heat too. They are nice. And yes, these motors are way out of balance stock. Ever notice how the motor shakes and vibrates? It's all in the balance. Mine is as smooth as can be. I also had the heads ported locally, billet connecting rods, stage one cam (be sure to weld the gear on if you do this!), etc. I got a little carried away. You don't even want to know how much money I put in mine.
I'm no good at posting links but if you look up this thread you can see my build
Well, if my wallet didn't hurt before reading your entire thread, it sure does now. Your end goal is pretty much the same as mine: Tow a heavy race trailer like its not there. 6000# trailer, 6000# race truck, 2000# slide in camper, 1000# fuel and misc gear/tools. Since I'm buying all new accessories, it is getting pricy. Reading your thread made me really think I should get a second motor to build, because all of the machine work won't happen super quickly. I was on the fence about billet rods, girdle, and delipped pistons, but now I'm leaning towards going for it. I hadn't given any real thought into headers, do you think they were worth it?
If I end up going for all of that as well as the new injectors and turbo, I'd be looking at about $16k plus any machine work, but there wouldn't be a single part of the motor left un touched in the rebuild and I would basically have the motor of my dreams. Most likely I'll save the injector and turbo money for now and put those in later, should bring the initial cost down by like $2500.
What do you have for a trans? I saw you put in a new flexplate when you did the motor, your e4od isn't stock is it?
Trans is a heavy duty rebuild from a fellow racer with a racer X triple billet torque converter and valve body. Nothing real special, but is holding up well.
I think the headers are worth it in the right combination. They do help it move air. Mine is better with the .91 exhaust housing too. Ported heads and headers, it needed a little restriction. Boost is higher with this housing, egt are lower.. 47 lbs of boost is top of what I've seen,, and I can't push over 1200 egt even in my race tune. I'm happy, not touching it anymore.
Trans is a heavy duty rebuild from a fellow racer with a racer X triple billet torque converter and valve body. Nothing real special, but is holding up well.
I think the headers are worth it in the right combination. They do help it move air. Mine is better with the .91 exhaust housing too. Ported heads and headers, it needed a little restriction. Boost is higher with this housing, egt are lower.. 47 lbs of boost is top of what I've seen,, and I can't push over 1200 egt even in my race tune. I'm happy, not touching it anymore.
wow that’s awesome, I struggle keeping EGT under 1200 over 10,000ft passes just towing 8-9k. I need to look into if any of the kc turbos can push that kind of boost or if I should just cave and go for the T4 set up
Trans is a heavy duty rebuild from a fellow racer with a racer X triple billet torque converter and valve body. Nothing real special, but is holding up well.
I think the headers are worth it in the right combination. They do help it move air. Mine is better with the .91 exhaust housing too. Ported heads and headers, it needed a little restriction. Boost is higher with this housing, egt are lower.. 47 lbs of boost is top of what I've seen,, and I can't push over 1200 egt even in my race tune. I'm happy, not touching it anymore.
I do have a couple questions for you in regards to drivability if you don’t mind. My truck is my daily and I live in a state with hot summers and cold winters. Do you think you would dislike daily driving the truck in its current state? And if you have cold weather (we usually have a week or so that doesn’t get above 0 degrees) are cold starts pretty rough?
I don't daily drive it at all, but if I did I would have no problem the way its built. It's fun to drive, and runs real good. The only problem daily driving would be the stiff rear suspension. I have f550 leaves in it, it's built to tow heavy. I have another stockish 97 I can drive, or other vehicles at my disposal. I live in SD so we have hot summers and real cold winters too, but I don't drive it in winter. It sits from about October to April. I do think it would be fine if I did though.
I don't daily drive it at all, but if I did I would have no problem the way its built. It's fun to drive, and runs real good. The only problem daily driving would be the stiff rear suspension. I have f550 leaves in it, it's built to tow heavy. I have another stockish 97 I can drive, or other vehicles at my disposal. I live in SD so we have hot summers and real cold winters too, but I don't drive it in winter. It sits from about October to April. I do think it would be fine if I did though.