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160/0 has trouble using all that fuel in a usable pulse width, so 180/0 definitely won't. I guess having more smoke is cool....
that was my issue with the 180/0s. “Rolling coal” everywhere. No matter the tune or driving habits. You can make it less but always smoked a cloud at takeoff. Kids in town seem to like it but that’s about it lol
Man, what you all are saying makes me think I must have 160s haha. If I mash it off the line then it smokes a decent bit, but clears up when boost hits around 10psi which is like 2000ish rpm. Other than that, I never see smoke. Pulling up the mountain passes this last trip I was expecting some smoke, but didn’t get any. Honestly it only smokes a bunch if I try to force it which pretty much only happens when one of my gasser friends is in the truck and says something dumb like “Does this thing roll coal” with a fake southern accent haha
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I got a pedal box if you need, no hump.
Found a cheap one on eBay that just showed up. Thank you though!
Haha makes sense. Yeah mine smoked like crazy. I really like my cummins. Even with junky edge tunes it barely smokes. The truck around the motor isn’t nearly as good tho
It’s been a while, but as I type this, the last bushing for the main shaft is heating up in the oven. Ended up running into a lot of parts that needed to be ordered, including a new counter shaft and countershaft gears (found out it takes 80T to press the gears off, so if you need a new shaft, you need new gears). Goal for the weekend is finish the main assembly today, and then pull races, pump, etc. from the cases tomorrow to replace and do final assembly. Then I’ll slap the Tcase on and measure overall length so that I can drop the driveshafts off at the shop on Monday. Install will be some time over the next few weekends. Going to limp it down to Longmont so that I can install in a shop on a lift rather than my garage. Starting to feel like it will eventually happen. Going on 6 weeks with the truck down, so I am beyond excited to drive it again
Looks awesome. I can only imagine how long 6 weeks without driving it feels.
thanks. It’s a weird feeling with this truck. I’ve had my Tacoma down for months at a time and never really cared, but that’s because it was always getting fun upgrades and wasn’t my daily driver. Not that the ZF6 won’t be a fun upgrade (in my opinion) but it sucks to have the truck just sit in the driveway fully assembled, almost taunting me haha.
today I replaced the counter shaft pocket bearing and reverse idler needle bearings in the extension housing, then started disassembling the main case. My plan for that was to have a friend tig weld a bead around the inside of the tapered races, to avoid splatter and keep everything clean. But with how busy he is and how much newly found motivation I had (thanks daylight savings) I just went ahead and mig welded them. Since the pump housing needed to be replaced anyways, I didn’t really have any parts to worry about, and I can clean up anything that got on the case. I might have mentioned it above, but I believe the original failure in this transmission was the counter shaft pocket bearing. The split race below is what’s left of that bearing. Luckily it didn’t flop around in there too much, as the new bearing was still a very tight fit. Tomorrow I’ll hook up the slide hammer to the vice grips and get the oil pump and housing out
You're putting in alot of work. What all do you need to install the ZF6? A new crossmember?
I remember vaguely looking into the 6 swap awhile back.
there’s a thick spacer that you need that goes between the block and bell housing, the spacer from E4OD/zf5 trucks is very thin. From what I’ve read, the SD or OBS crossmembers can be modified to work with minimal work. Drivelines need to be shortened/lengthened and different flanges put on the tcase side. Other than that it’s all the typical auto to manual swap parts
there’s a thick spacer that you need that goes between the block and bell housing, the spacer from E4OD/zf5 trucks is very thin. From what I’ve read, the SD or OBS crossmembers can be modified to work with minimal work. Drivelines need to be shortened/lengthened and different flanges put on the tcase side. Other than that it’s all the typical auto to manual swap parts
just kidding. My brain wasn’t working, the ZF6 spacer is the 1/8” thin one, the E4OD/ZF5 spacer is thick. Also ran into some serious brain farting earlier while trying to figure out how to explain what needs to be changed to the driveline shop. Math was not working in my brain with the idea of eliminating the slip yoke
I sent Midwest my counter shaft to R&R my 1:1 gear as it did not look that great. Ran me about $100 only with freight and labor. Probably took them all of 15 min to swap.
Totally get it buying guts for one. I needed to replace piles of stuff inside mine.
I sent Midwest my counter shaft to R&R my 1:1 gear as it did not look that great. Ran me about $100 only with freight and labor. Probably took them all of 15 min to swap.
Totally get it buying guts for one. I needed to replace piles of stuff inside mine.
Any photos of that pump?
I wish I had done that. The shops that I called all wanted a ton of money to mess with those gears. I'll snap a pic of the pump tonight, it is not in good shape. I spun it before removing and it was super gritty
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