Yes, behind the balancer. Check to see if yours is delaminating...mine was so I went for a Fluidampr over some Chicom made junk or an OE Motorcraft.

Do Alliant for the water pump, may as well get a filter on the truck like most of us since the block will be low. How old is the heater core? If unknown, spend $25 and swap it.

 

Probably as old as the truck lol. Guess I'll add that to the list. Oh and a PS pump, since mine leaks a tiny bit. ****, at this point I might as well replace the front cover seal/gasket. It has a leak slow enough to never drip to the ground, but fast enough to coat the cover in oil

 

Just rebuild your pump. Kit is about $9 from Edelman. Easy as can be...unless a previous reman then may have issues! 100% do the high line and low line.

Pretty sure timing cover reseal equals oil pan drop.

Replace heater core hoses. Super cheap. I think 5/8" consider that coolant block off valve that is vac actuated. If in budget, do upper and lower rad hoses. Gates tend to fit better than Continental to me.

Any info on the vac pump? They take a **** at random. BTDT. Gates makes a Fleetrunner belt. Slap it on and keep old for spare.

Forget if you have efuel, depends on kit but front rubber lines can and will blow out at random.

 

No idea what PS pump is in there. I'll have to dig a little deeper into what it takes to get the timing cover off. At this point, I don't even know what a budget is. I'm so upside down on this truck that at this point it has cost me more than I sold my 370Z Nismo for haha. But either way, I have a new garage door opener going in Friday, ordering an AC unit for the house next week, and getting a fencing quote on Sunday. Its just money....... It will definitely take me a few months to save up for this project after all of that.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...414583&jsn=405 Sorry, $5.64 now.

Pull the fitting, doink res off, pop snap ring, replace assorted seals. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...125032&jsn=652 Belt.

 

Good to know, thanks!

Quick question for anyone that knows: if my injector o-rings were bad I would be burning oil right? I think I have narrowed my issues down to definitely a HPOP. About 3800 miles on the oil and I'm still at the perfectly full mark on the dip stick

 

I have a 3/4" PEX valve for the heater core block off if you want it.

 

Unsure, I consume oil and it is not external aside from oil pan sealant weep. I think mine is going through the injectors, as higher IDC pressures increase the consumption.

Like I said, you probably have a lame HPOP, but check more into that 1211. My truck pulled way harder with a fresh unit. I have not kept up with economy, but it probably has increased to correct atmoization. Also note, these trucks have the 15* swash plate over the 17* the SD has. So we are already starting at a weaker place.

 

Excuse my ignorance (I really haven’t spent all that much time inside of engine bays prior to this truck) but what does that do? Prevent something from leaking while changing the hoses?
Yeah I’m about ready to just park the truck in the garage and send the HPOP to CNC. Thinking I’ll get the stage 2 since it’s only about $150 more than the stage 1 and then I can swap to bigger injectors later in life if I decide to

 

[QUOTE=literallynothing;19918813]Excuse my ignorance (I really haven’t spent all that much time inside of engine bays prior to this truck) but what does that do? Prevent something from leaking while changing the hoses?

This prevents hot coolant from entering the heater core during the summer. This is beneficial since the air conditioning system always passes air over the heater core even when cooling. The results will be colder cold air coming from the AC since it is not passing over a hot heater core before entering the cab.

Some folks use a vacuums actuated valve VS a ¾ PEX ball valve so that it can be controller from the cab. I have the ball valve and have had to stop to turn it on a few times during some unexpected colder mornings. A slight annoyance that makes me consider putting in a Vacuum valve but not a big enough inconvenience for me to actually follow through with it.

 

[QUOTE=Ad_Brack;19918945]The main reason I went with a PEX valve was cost and reliability. Having spent the last 4 years in FL, I haven't needed both heat and the coldest AC on the same day, so I went the manual route. It is not for everyone though.

 

[QUOTE=Ad_Brack;19918945]Gotcha, thanks!
[QUOTE=Khan;19918951]Well I think I have a leak in my AC system somewhere, but if you have a spare PEX valve that you don't want, I'll take it!

 

Yeah man shoot me a PM when you're ready.

 

Is it pretty common for the heater cores to go bad?

 

Alright, I have gone very far down the rabbit hole with research at this point. What do you guys think about this: I am going to do the valve springs, push rods, injector o rings, HPOP, LPOP, Water Pump, PS Pump, SD Valve Cover Harness, and some small parts along the way. I have a small oil leak from the font cover gasket. Never enough to have it drip, but its completely caked in oil. From what I have read, the only successful way too fix this is to pull the motor, because I will have to drop the oil pan, and will never get it sealed again with the motor in the truck. So, would it be worth it to take the time to pull the motor, put it on a stand, and do everything with the motor out? Seems that pulling the motor would make every part of this easier, and allow me to fix the front cover leak, as well as buy that fancy dip stick fix thing. But part of me also says that if I am pulling the motor, I should pull the heads and stud it as well as new head gaskets. So basically, pulling the motor just digs the rabbit hole deeper.

I really need to finish repainting my camper so I can sell it. Then I can afford to actually do all of this haha